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East Draw Traverse


Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 57 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 980
Total Points: 698
Last Year: 133
Last 30 Days: 12
56 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2151 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 73 | Page Improvements | Comments 263 | Posts 1466 | Stars 193 | Ratings 149
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Milton Boulder : Milton (V4)
By: KCP When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: Just did this thing again, after 20+ years. Still fun, and still no more or less than V4.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Wingless Victory (5.13a/b R)
By: KCP When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know what shape the bolts are in?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Captain Crunch (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Props to Joe Crotty for replacing some old, manky bolts on CC, on Sunday, 3/29/2015.

Os are original hardware. Xs are new hardware.
Os are original hardware. Xs are new hardware.



Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anc... : NO-FUSS MUSSY : Photo
By: KCP When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: An easy fix is to use long draws, which would hang below the actual Mussy Hooks, et al.


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anc... : NO-FUSS MUSSY : Photo
By: KCP When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: The other two pics have the Mussys, This one is meant to show the simplicity of going from tr to rap. I'll take redundancy any day. Stuff fails. It's the nature of the beast.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: The anchors need an upgrade. I'd do it, but I don't own a drill.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : The Web (5.13)
By: KCP When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: I one-hung this route too many times before redpointing it, years ago, because I did not like the idea of whipping on those old bolts. I recently took a friend to it, and the new bolts inspire a lot more confidence. Thanks for the upgrade on my all-time favorite sport route.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mrs. Hen Places a Peck (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: If you all are referring to the clip in the middle of the headwall, it's dead easy from the good crimp out left near the arete. No reason to clip it from the bad slot in the crack. 11c/d hanging the draws. 11b/c with them already hung. Interesting movement the entire way. Bullet the Brown Cloud is less sustained, although the crux move is much harder at about 11+. 11a/b for BTBC is way off the mark.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Bullet The Brown Cloud (5.11b/c)
By: KCP When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: Grade-inconsistency is definitely a thing at Table. Fwiw, I opted for going left to the rail, instead of staying on the arete. The latter felt contrived. I missed no holds and found this pitch solid at about 11d. Interesting boulder problem crux.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Volobee (aka Jolobee) (5.11a/b PG13)
By: KCP When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: Fun pitch, although nowhere near 5.11. More like low-end 5.10. The ratings at this crag are all over the place.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Chicken Dance (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: Using the stems down low felt more natural than the contrived path suggested here. Climbing this pitch using everything within easy reach weighs in at about 11a/b, imo. I'd give it 3 stars, on gear, using the dihedral.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Freeform (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: I remember this being a very fun route. It felt like 12a, although easier than Gym Arete, which might be a sandbag for the area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Not going to mince words in saying that I oppose permadraws on a route like LD. Hanging draws on this rig is a breeze. I've done it several times. Moreover, having permadraws prohibits the ability of hanging draws for a traditional onsight, which still matters to some climbers. Convenience draws are best suited for gyms and steep, dry, cave-routes which are otherwise a major undertaking to equip. I own expensive Petzl Spirits for a reason, and I don't want to be forced into using permadraws beca... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Grizzly Rose (5.10c)
By: KCP When: Nov 7, 2014

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Comments: I wonder if this is the route that I've been warming up on for Sinopia. It's about ten feet to the left of Golden Rose.


Location: Sport Climbing : The 10 Essentials of Sport ...
By: KCP When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: The Gri Gri is the vetted and preferred device for sport climbing, for obvious reasons to any seasoned sport-belayer. That said, never release the brake-end of the rope without first cinching it off with a Mule Knot. Any sudden shift in body-position can release enough pressure from the Gri Gri's cam to allow slippage, potentially dropping the climber onto a ledge or the ground. No bueno.

The beauty of the Gri Gri is in that the cam takes the weight off of the belayer's arm, allowing climbers t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Father Figure (5.11b)
By: KCP When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: This route, imo, is more deserving of 3 stars than 2. The movement is very good, and several of the holds, which keep this pitch at the lower end of 5.11, are hard to see. Much harder to onsight than redpoint.

The only reachy clip, for me at 6' tall, is #4, which isn't reachy at all if you climb onto the smaller holds out right to clip it. The route wanders among hidden holds, so stay relaxed, look around, and know that there is always a good hold where you need it. The final headwall abo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: KCP When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Buried Alive feels like the most natural line of pitches. Very fun three-pitch 5.9. Great intro for aspiring 5.9 leaders. Carry your approach shoes, as the walk-off is much easier and faster than rapping.

Pitch 1: (Buried Treasure) 5.8-
Pitch 2: (Buried Treasure) 5.6
Pitch 3: (Staying Alive crux) 5.9.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Buried Alive feels like the most natural line of pitches. Very fun three-pitch 5.9. Great intro for aspiring 5.9 leaders. Carry your approach shoes, as the walk-off is much easier and faster than rapping.

Pitch 1: (Buried Treasure) 5.8-
Pitch 2: (Buried Treasure) 5.6
Pitch 3: (Staying Alive crux) 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: KCP When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Freesoloed this one by moonlight, way back in the day, and got blacked out in the upper dihedral because the moon was off to the right around the corner. I was grateful for big holds and eventually turning back onto the face and some moonlight to top out. Haven't been there in decades, although the Gunks was always a good time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : The Monument (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: GEAR ALERT!

I got on this route, the other day (10/07/2014), and the first bolt is partially levered out of the hole, bent, and rusting. These are probably the same bolts that were there when I sent this route back in '92. They need to be replace before someone breaks on and decks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: This is an interesting route with varied climbing. It starts with a short, straightforward, 11d dihedral to a bivy ledge, followed by two short boulder problems (V6 to a V5) split by a jug, and then a 11b dihedral to the anchors. It's not over until you gain the slab. I'm giving this route 3 stars for the quality of climbing overall.

Props to anyone so strong that this feels like 12c. Climbers at their limit in this grade will likely be disappointed if they get on this rig thinking that it's 12... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Stuffed Wolf (5.13b)
By: KCP When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: The crux move to the right-hand pinch is a stopper for me. Went out there with Pinklebear. He sent on his 4th go. Great movement. The 5.1 approach is casual. The best way up is the west-facing, steeper, juggy face to the right of SW. I did it in wet, water shoes, a pack on, and a clipping stick in one hand. Nothing to worry about as long as you don't fall.

SW is not a giveaway. Feels solid at the grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: KCP When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: This one flummoxed me for two sessions until I finally unlocked a crux sequence that worked. I found no way to make the hand-jam feel anywhere near 12a/b. That rattly jam felt much harder. Btw, the fall is clean. The ledges below you look sketchy, although you'll clear them.

I highly recommend this pitch.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: KCP When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: Got on TDD for the first time, today. I walked away not loving the route, although, in retrospect, I might have judged prematurely. It was hot up there, smelled like urine at the base, and I felt that the climbing up to the crux was less than memorable. The short compression sequence at the top was somewhat interesting, although out of character with everything below it. Maybe I'm nitpicking.

I had no beta going in, and I managed to unlock the crux in a few minutes. Not sure why people are fin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: KCP When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: I seem to recall the original rating clocking in at 11- or thereabouts. That felt about accurate to me. The heel hook makes everything pretty reasonable.


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