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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that Fred Knapp?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall
By: KCP When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Peter makes a good point about the tunnel, and it is an easy fix. There is no need to use tunnel 6. There is a well-groomed path that walks right over it. The consequences of taking the tunnel route, if you aren't very careful and have a low-profile pack, could be deadly, and it's illegal. Just don't do it. Getting your pack snagged on a passing train and being dragged like a rag doll won't do the climbing community any favors. I've been stuck in that tunnel twice with a train, and it's not fun.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Breakfast Cliff : Waffle House (5.10d)
By: KCP When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I understand trying to rate things like this when you're way stronger than them. I've been there, but after not climbing for three years, I can feel this grade better. This pitch is definitely harder than at least two of the 5.11 pitches on the Naked Edge. I called it 11b. Climbed it directly up the line of bolts.
Excellent sampling, regardless of the grade.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Breakfast Cliff : The Morning Poos (5.8)
By: KCP When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I warmed up on the route, this morning, and noticed that both links were rusting on the inner surface that seats the rope. They might be lower grade 400 series stainless, in which case they should be upgraded. Rapping is better, although almost no one does it. Most people lower on the links, so better to set them up for that, imo. Fun warmup.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Breakfast Cliff
By: KCP When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Came across this cliff by accident, today. Really fun routes and perfectly bolted. Props to the route developer for doing this cliff justice.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : The Abyss (5.12c/d)
By: KCP When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I enjoyed this route. Stays with you, and the fun comes right before the anchors.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice send, Cody! One of my favorite pitches in Eldo.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Rainbow Wall (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt like 8a to me. Definitely harder than Captain Crunch, IMO.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: KCP When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: (Y)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : The Monument (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Apr 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm surprised that this route doesn't get more traffic, considering how easily accessed and well protected it is. Activity seems to go in spurts. The day I redpointed this route, Mario Lopez was filming an episode of Saved by the Bell, on the east side of Whale's Tail, and he had walked over to watch while I was getting the kneebar rest before the lip. According to one of the cameramen, I became Lopez's climbing idol for a day when he saw me pull the lip. I got a kick out of that.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: KCP When: Apr 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leo,
This route is classic Eldo funk, and I mean that in the most endearing way. It's only reachy if you don't utilize the inobvious intermediates and sequential movement. I've done this climb dozens of times, and I never get tired of it. It's a one-move-dominant route with really fun movement up to the crux.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Contest (5.11d)
By: KCP When: Apr 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's been 19 years since I did this route, although I remember it being really high quality, in spite of its short length. It climbs much better than it looks. I'm 6', and I don't remember a problem clipping any of the bolts.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: KCP When: Apr 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done the first pitch into Bolting about thirty times, and only twice ever did the second pitch, although it's also pretty fun. Pitch one into Bolting just seems like the obvious and most natural line to me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Apr 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Consensus is a great thing, Steve. I'm all for it, although being able to dislodge a pin with arm-force warrants it be gone, imo. Your attitude about not clipping a bad pin is the smart one. Better to have the attitude that you are soloing and cannot fall, rather to have any faith whatsoever in that the pin might catch you. Thanks to Joe for removing it. Glad it's gone.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Gill Boulder : South Face (V4)
By: KCP When: Apr 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did it today as a warm-up. I agree with Phil's rating. V2 feels about right. There are several V3s in the canyon that are harder than it. No way it's V4.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Evictor (5.12c R)
By: KCP When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, Adam, just for reference, I lived in North Conway in '86, and knew Jimmy then. He was actually in high school at the time, so the '70s timeline is inaccurate. As for his low-key approach, that is true. He was always pretty humble about his accomplishments, yet super driven.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Play Misty (5.11c PG13) : Photo
By: KCP When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks completely grown over since the mid 80s.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Biglandia : The Bitch Slap (V7)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Except for a few sharp pockets, this is an excellent traverse problem. It climbs more like a route, because of its length.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Biglandia : The Rotund (V7)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The transition move onto the final sloper is a heartbreaker. Took me several tries to send this thing, because I underestimated that drop-down move every time.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Barrio (V8-9)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This rig took me several days of effort, although just as fun every try.
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Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : H Wall (aka J Face) : Under the Big Top (5.10 PG13)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This and Ladder Line, IMO, were the best lead climbs in the quarry, when I lead them in the mid '80s. UTBT had great protection and fun moves through and over the roof. I think we called it 10a back then.
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Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Lower Walls
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I put a lot of mileage on these walls in the early '80s - as many as 20 to 30 laps per day - not including Alcove bouldering. A tucked-away gem in the middle of hectic, urban living.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : North Narrows Slabs : The Hitcher (5.12a/b)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark took me out to this route, not long after he put it up. I remember onsighting it and thinking that it was pretty easy, because of the crux being right off of the ground, and I don't remember the year. I think it was '94 or '95. If Mark or anyone else has any more info about the date, consensus grade, etc., let me know, and I'll amend the description.
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Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : J Wall (aka L Face) : Ladder Line (5.11c)
By: KCP When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This pitch was rated hard 5.10 when I lead it in the mid 80s. It has been ages, although 11c seems way off compared to 5.11 trad routes that I did back then on Cathedral and Whitehorse. Camber is rated 11b, and it's much harder, IMO.
Haven't been to the quarry since the mid 80s. I heard a rumor that a lot of the quarry has been filled in with dirt. Seems like that would change a lot of the place's character. Anyone have recent photos that they can post?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: KCP When: Mar 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this thing in '92, after toproping it a few times that season. Although it still felt spicey, leading it onsight would be a much more serious undertaking.
I tr'd it yesterday, after 21 yrs, and it felt harder moving past the first bolt. It has been a long time, but the horizontal crimp seems like it broke. I remember that move off of the left gaston being much easier.
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