Comments: I'm with J on this, Chris. The draws were sun-damaged, and the biners were worn enough to potentially damage rope running over them. The draw on the fourth bolt was curled up stiff into a 90 degree position from the sun-damage. If you can't see the danger potential from the pic, then I'm especially glad that I removed them before someone gets hurt.
As for replacing them, it's not my responsibility, nor am I in the financial position to. LD is not a gym route, and no one asked the draw owner to ... more >>
Comments: Well worth the short, steep hike. There are excellent footholds almost wherever you want them. I found no fewer than four no-hands rests, as well. Soft? Hard? Grades seem insignificant on routes with such high-quality movement.
Ken and Mark are responsible for some mega-classics in the canyon. JC is right up there.
Comments: Excellent face climbing! I didn't notice anything reachy on this route. I'm just shy of 6', with a 3+ ape-index. It felt no harder than 11+ to me. I use routes like Gym Arete (Shelf), Fire & Ice (Eldo), Ricochet (Rifle), etc. as bench-marks for 12a, which all feel harder to me than Cimmaron Lanes.
Comments: It's short with an interesting boulder problem start. I found some graceful beta off of a tenuous left sidepull. Foot placement and body-tension are important. I thought it was a better warmup for Lucid Dreaming than Mr. Sandman, for instance. Also more convenient. It was pretty dirty, so I gave it a decent brushing. The bolts are placed well, and the crux is engaging enough that it deserves two stars, imo.
I removed the draws from Lucid Dreaming today. They're no longer safe. The one with the square-cut gouge in it was on the third bolt that people whip onto when they blow the lip. Several of the slings are showing visible sun and weather damage. Anyway, whoever owns them is welcome to call or message me, and I'm happy to get them back to you if you're local.
Comments: Interesting problem. Definitely worth a few burns. As far as the grade goes, and they are always subjective at best, TP feels like V8 - not V7. It's harder than Rotund, Valhalla, and several other established problems in the area and others.
The moves down low look easier if you can get the heel-hook. I can't, so the opening sequence up to the good crimp is pretty powerful for me. The problem is also temperature-dependent, so opt for colder than warmer for the turning point sequence.