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Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,039
Total Points: 590
Last Year: 174
Last 30 Days: 10
40 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has KCP been climbing?










Contributions


All 2075 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 55 | Page Improvments | Comments 245 | Posts 1458 | Stars 177 | Ratings 133
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: KCP When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I seem to recall the original rating clocking in at 11- or thereabouts. That felt about accurate to me. The heel hook makes everything pretty reasonable.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: KCP When: Aug 23, 2014

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Comments: Can't believe that there is not one photo of this classic posted here. Time to change that. Went out there, today. Still love this route. Super high quality, classic, Eldo trickery.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: I'm with J on this, Chris. The draws were sun-damaged, and the biners were worn enough to potentially damage rope running over them. The draw on the fourth bolt was curled up stiff into a 90 degree position from the sun-damage. If you can't see the danger potential from the pic, then I'm especially glad that I removed them before someone gets hurt.

As for replacing them, it's not my responsibility, nor am I in the financial position to. LD is not a gym route, and no one asked the draw owner to ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Jolt Cola (5.12-)
By: KCP When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Well worth the short, steep hike. There are excellent footholds almost wherever you want them. I found no fewer than four no-hands rests, as well. Soft? Hard? Grades seem insignificant on routes with such high-quality movement.

Ken and Mark are responsible for some mega-classics in the canyon. JC is right up there.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Cimmaron Lanes (5.11d)
By: KCP When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: Excellent face climbing! I didn't notice anything reachy on this route. I'm just shy of 6', with a 3+ ape-index. It felt no harder than 11+ to me. I use routes like Gym Arete (Shelf), Fire & Ice (Eldo), Ricochet (Rifle), etc. as bench-marks for 12a, which all feel harder to me than Cimmaron Lanes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Riots Activist (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: The crux beta seemed pretty straightforward (hang slopers, throw right foot onto a good edge out right, reach with right hand to a sinker finger-bucket). Fun route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Dragonslayer (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: I guess I need some beta.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Merlin (5.11d)
By: KCP When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: High quality except for the flesh-eating, thumbs-down jam at the crux.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Dragonslayer (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Either a hold broke or this rig is sandbagged, because the boulder problem is easily V7, which would make this route 13a - not 12d.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : I Have a Dream (5.11)
By: KCP When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: It's short with an interesting boulder problem start. I found some graceful beta off of a tenuous left sidepull. Foot placement and body-tension are important. I thought it was a better warmup for Lucid Dreaming than Mr. Sandman, for instance. Also more convenient. It was pretty dirty, so I gave it a decent brushing. The bolts are placed well, and the crux is engaging enough that it deserves two stars, imo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : East Draw : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: That's the V3 to the right of Pig Dog.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Tyndall Gorge : ... : The Kind (V5)
By: KCP When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Classic at the grade. Nice forearm warm-up for the harder problems in the area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Barrio (V8-9)
By: KCP When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Redpoint crux sequence:



Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Barrio (V8-9)
By: KCP When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Full value. Awesome problem!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Gill Boulder : Horan Face (V5-6)
By: KCP When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: So for some perspective, if Zero G is V5 and Re-Entry Burn is consensus V6, then Horan Face is solid V6, at least in warm weather. Classic problem.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Captain Crunch (5.13a)
By: KCP When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: Sent this route midday, midsummer. Good route any time of year. Definitely easier than The Web.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: KCP When: May 18, 2014

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Comments:
I removed the draws from Lucid Dreaming today. They're no longer safe. The one with the square-cut gouge in it was on the third bolt that people whip onto when they blow the lip. Several of the slings are showing visible sun and weather damage. Anyway, whoever owns them is welcome to call or message me, and I'm happy to get them back to you if you're local.
I removed the draws from Lucid Dreaming today. They're no longer safe. The one with the square-cut gouge in it was on the third bolt that people whip onto when they blow the lip. Several of the slings are showing visible sun and weather damage. Anyway, whoever owns them is welcome to call or message me, and I'm happy to get them back to you if you're local.



Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cryptic Boulder : Cryptic Magician (V7)
By: KCP When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Very sharp but fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Re-Entry Burn (V6)
By: KCP When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Good feet if you use them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Zero G (V5)
By: KCP When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: Didn't flash but did it in a couple tries. Pretty fun, although not a classic. Good warmup once you know the moves. V5 feels about right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Dark Side : Valhalla (V7)
By: KCP When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Hard second move without the heel-hook. Fun problem.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Girlfriend's Backside (V7)
By: KCP When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: One, awkward move. V7 feels accurate. Calling this rig V5 is pretty funny.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : The Turning Point (V9)
By: KCP When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Interesting problem. Definitely worth a few burns. As far as the grade goes, and they are always subjective at best, TP feels like V8 - not V7. It's harder than Rotund, Valhalla, and several other established problems in the area and others.

The moves down low look easier if you can get the heel-hook. I can't, so the opening sequence up to the good crimp is pretty powerful for me. The problem is also temperature-dependent, so opt for colder than warmer for the turning point sequence.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Photo
By: KCP When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Dave!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: I do it that way. That sidepull is a jug, and there is no need for the feet to cut loose there.


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