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Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,045
Total Points: 607
Last Year: 106
Last 30 Days: 0
46 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has KCP been climbing?










Contributions


All 2102 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 57 | Page Improvements | Comments 252 | Posts 1462 | Stars 184 | Ratings 140
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Free Speech (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: This route is 12a to onsight, IMO. I can see how someone getting it wired, and then redpointing it, might think it were easier, but is that really how to rate a route with such short business?

If you go up there, onsight, expect it to feel like easy 5.12.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Chasing Sticks (5.9)
By: KCP When: Oct 26, 2007

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Comments: This is a very fun route, that was poorly bolted.


Location: John Hegyes : Random Images : Photo
By: KCP When: Oct 26, 2007

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Comments: Looks like a clear sign of color blindness to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock : Let the Daylight In (5.12)
By: KCP When: Oct 20, 2007

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Comments: I went up to do this route, today, and broke the crux handhold off. It was a good edge, and it is now a bad sloper. The route felt like 12- with it, but it is solid 5.12 without it. I was up there with Matt Samet, and he redpointed it without the hold. He said it is probably 12b/c now. The third clip is harder.

Be careful standing on the detached blocks at the first bolt. A basketball-size chunk broke off, when I stepped on it, and almost took out my belayer. Make sure that the belayer and rope... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Lost Dentures (5.9)
By: KCP When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: I generally agree, Dougald. Just thinking out loud. I guess it's the very short nature of this route and wall that caused me to think about it that way. The routes at Nursing Home are almost like overgrown boulder problems.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Lost Dentures (5.9)
By: KCP When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: This is a fun little pitch. I found a perfect #10 stopper placement in a finger slot that protects the moves up to the bolt. You could plug an Alien in here, but then there would be no room for your fingers, and the stopper is bomber. There was also what looked like a good medium cam placement just above the lower shelf, although I had no cams with me.

Not to start a shit storm, but I am inclined to say that this would have made a better sport route. It is basically a face climb, and the ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Hip Replacement (5.10+)
By: KCP When: Oct 17, 2007

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Comments: I guess I could call this 10+, but I thought the opening sequence up to the jug above the first bolt was trickier than anything on Early Bird Special, across the street.

I up and downclimbed the opening section 5 or 6 times before I found beta that worked for me without having to lunge through it, and then it was still hard. It is an interesting boulder problem, but the rest of the route left much to be desired.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock : Second Career (5.8)
By: KCP When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: You can find some fun climbing on these obscuro crags. We really enjoyed this route. I personally didn't see the need to place any gear. The bolts seemed to protect everything pretty well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock : Early Bird Special (5.11-)
By: KCP When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: This is a surprisingly good route, and I am almost tempted to give it three stars, except that it is a bit short. The climbing, on positive edges and sidepulls, is interesting all the way to the anchors. I didn't find the lunge mentioned above. On the contrary, I found good holds within reach the entire way.

Good job, Bob and Greg.

Hey, Greg. Screw the wheelchair access. I enjoyed bushwacking away from the crowds for a change. I liked it so much that I'm going back, tomorrow, to do the 5.12.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : A Virgin No More (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: To Mike Carnes:

Not trying to resurrect an old discussion, but I just stumbled upon it and can't resist.
Crash pads or not, falling from here
would leave one hell of a mess.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Bolting for Glory (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Oct 14, 2007

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Comments: This route was slippery the first time I did it in 1991, and feels the same every time since. 10a feels spot on. Every route feels harder in the sun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Mosquito Burrito (5.8)
By: KCP When: Oct 12, 2007

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Comments: I see a lot of these routes being rated for elimination moves, recently.

Betsy and I just did this route, today, and the path of least resistance, which essentially follows the bolt line within a foot or two on either side, is no harder than 5.8. There is no 5.9 or 10 move on the route unless you eliminate the holds. The only local route that I can compare this one to is "Deck Chairs on the Titanic", at Table Mountain, and Titanic is considerably harder at 5.9. And if anyone needs some perspect... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Happy Ending (5.10)
By: KCP When: Oct 7, 2007

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Comments: The holds on the short, upper headwall reminded me of Soul Train, at Industrial Wall. It's too bad that the entire route isn't like the last ten feet.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Play Misty (5.11c PG13)
By: KCP When: Oct 7, 2007

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Comments: I remember this route. One of Jimmy Dunn's. I don't remember it being PG13. I thought it was pretty well protected, and had a pin at the crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Dan's Line (5.8)
By: KCP When: Oct 2, 2007

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Comments: Be careful of the large flakes at the overlap. They are fractured and hollow sounding when you tap on them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Creekside : Liquid Therapy (5.10)
By: KCP When: Sep 30, 2007

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Comments: This route turned out to be more interesting than it looks. Compared to routes like Mists of Avalon 10a, BC, and Bolting For Glory 10a, Eldo, I would call this one 5.9ish. I wouldn't think twice about recommending it to a 5.9 leader with good gear skills.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Spasmodic Rock : Photo
By: KCP When: Sep 29, 2007

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Comments: Bob,

I think you need a new climbing outfit. You're wearing that one out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Edges and Ledges (5.8)
By: KCP When: Sep 26, 2007

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Comments: Excellent route at the grade. Steep jug-hauling all the way to the anchors. The crux is getting to the base of the route without touching the Poison Ivy. It's everywhere.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: KCP When: Sep 24, 2007

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Comments: I think the answer is pretty simple, Richard. Most of the critics have lived in the area, and they ignored it. Leo said that he thought about it but had more important things to do. Ron and Bruno looked at it, thought about it, reconned (<made up word) it, and then developed it. I think that about sums it up.

It went from being dormant to becoming an instantly popular destination as a direct result of their efforts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Creekside : Spirit on the Water (5.9)
By: KCP When: Sep 22, 2007

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Comments: I think the first pitch of this route is one of the better pitches on Tonnere Tower.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Black Hole (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Sep 20, 2007

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Comments: How do you equate my opinion that the route didn't feel greasy with arguing? The crimps at the crux are nice and crisp, and the big holds above aren't bad at all. And, yes, I am talking about the correct route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Bobby's Back (5.10d)
By: KCP When: Sep 19, 2007

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Comments: Rate it by the path of least resistance, which, in this case, goes straight up the bolt line. That's how routes have traditionally been rated. I would agree with the mid 5.10 rating. Fun crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Lucky Strikes Again (5.9)
By: KCP When: Sep 14, 2007

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Comments: Betsy and I finally went up and did this route today. Really fun!!!
It is a jugfest with great position and movement, and the bolts are exactly where they should be. The bottom half looks like choss but climbs as well as the top.

As for the grade, who knows, and who cares? I would send a 5.8 leader up there anytime.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: KCP When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: Jack is correct. It's true that it will take much more effort now to ferret out quality routes. I have been hiking around Boulder Canyon for weeks now, looking for new ground, and the best options are well hidden under moss and in more remote locations. Nothing short of elbow grease and commitment will reveal any of the few remaining gems.

Ron did this with Tonnere. He took a crate full of what many considered to be lemons that no one wanted, and he turned them into really good lemonade. Inste... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : In Your Face (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Sep 11, 2007

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Comments: I liked the way the route climbed, but it was a greasefest.


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