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Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 1,047
Total Points: 593
Last Year: 177
Last 30 Days: 11
43 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has KCP been climbing?










Contributions


All 2086 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 248 | Posts 1459 | Stars 181 | Ratings 136
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock : Second Career (5.8)
By: KCP When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: You can find some fun climbing on these obscuro crags. We really enjoyed this route. I personally didn't see the need to place any gear. The bolts seemed to protect everything pretty well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock : Early Bird Special (5.11-)
By: KCP When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: This is a surprisingly good route, and I am almost tempted to give it three stars, except that it is a bit short. The climbing, on positive edges and sidepulls, is interesting all the way to the anchors. I didn't find the lunge mentioned above. On the contrary, I found good holds within reach the entire way.

Good job, Bob and Greg.

Hey, Greg. Screw the wheelchair access. I enjoyed bushwacking away from the crowds for a change. I liked it so much that I'm going back, tomorrow, to do the 5.12.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : A Virgin No More (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: To Mike Carnes:

Not trying to resurrect an old discussion, but I just stumbled upon it and can't resist.
Crash pads or not, falling from here
would leave one hell of a mess.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Bolting for Glory (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Oct 14, 2007

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Comments: This route was slippery the first time I did it in 1991, and feels the same every time since. 10a feels spot on. Every route feels harder in the sun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Mosquito Burrito (5.8)
By: KCP When: Oct 12, 2007

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Comments: I see a lot of these routes being rated for elimination moves, recently.

Betsy and I just did this route, today, and the path of least resistance, which essentially follows the bolt line within a foot or two on either side, is no harder than 5.8. There is no 5.9 or 10 move on the route unless you eliminate the holds. The only local route that I can compare this one to is "Deck Chairs on the Titanic", at Table Mountain, and Titanic is considerably harder at 5.9. And if anyone needs some perspect... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Happy Ending (5.10)
By: KCP When: Oct 7, 2007

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Comments: The holds on the short, upper headwall reminded me of Soul Train, at Industrial Wall. It's too bad that the entire route isn't like the last ten feet.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Play Misty (5.11c PG13)
By: KCP When: Oct 7, 2007

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Comments: I remember this route. One of Jimmy Dunn's. I don't remember it being PG13. I thought it was pretty well protected, and had a pin at the crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Dan's Line (5.8)
By: KCP When: Oct 2, 2007

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Comments: Be careful of the large flakes at the overlap. They are fractured and hollow sounding when you tap on them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Creekside : Liquid Therapy (5.10)
By: KCP When: Sep 30, 2007

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Comments: This route turned out to be more interesting than it looks. Compared to routes like Mists of Avalon 10a, BC, and Bolting For Glory 10a, Eldo, I would call this one 5.9ish. I wouldn't think twice about recommending it to a 5.9 leader with good gear skills.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Spasmodic Rock : Photo
By: KCP When: Sep 29, 2007

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Comments: Bob,

I think you need a new climbing outfit. You're wearing that one out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Edges and Ledges (5.8)
By: KCP When: Sep 26, 2007

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Comments: Excellent route at the grade. Steep jug-hauling all the way to the anchors. The crux is getting to the base of the route without touching the Poison Ivy. It's everywhere.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: KCP When: Sep 24, 2007

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Comments: I think the answer is pretty simple, Richard. Most of the critics have lived in the area, and they ignored it. Leo said that he thought about it but had more important things to do. Ron and Bruno looked at it, thought about it, reconned (<made up word) it, and then developed it. I think that about sums it up.

It went from being dormant to becoming an instantly popular destination as a direct result of their efforts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Creekside : Spirit on the Water (5.9)
By: KCP When: Sep 22, 2007

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Comments: I think the first pitch of this route is one of the better pitches on Tonnere Tower.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Black Hole (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Sep 20, 2007

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Comments: How do you equate my opinion that the route didn't feel greasy with arguing? The crimps at the crux are nice and crisp, and the big holds above aren't bad at all. And, yes, I am talking about the correct route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Bobby's Back (5.10d)
By: KCP When: Sep 19, 2007

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Comments: Rate it by the path of least resistance, which, in this case, goes straight up the bolt line. That's how routes have traditionally been rated. I would agree with the mid 5.10 rating. Fun crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Lucky Strikes Again (5.9)
By: KCP When: Sep 14, 2007

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Comments: Betsy and I finally went up and did this route today. Really fun!!!
It is a jugfest with great position and movement, and the bolts are exactly where they should be. The bottom half looks like choss but climbs as well as the top.

As for the grade, who knows, and who cares? I would send a 5.8 leader up there anytime.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: KCP When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: Jack is correct. It's true that it will take much more effort now to ferret out quality routes. I have been hiking around Boulder Canyon for weeks now, looking for new ground, and the best options are well hidden under moss and in more remote locations. Nothing short of elbow grease and commitment will reveal any of the few remaining gems.

Ron did this with Tonnere. He took a crate full of what many considered to be lemons that no one wanted, and he turned them into really good lemonade. Inste... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : In Your Face (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Sep 11, 2007

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Comments: I liked the way the route climbed, but it was a greasefest.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : Predator (5.12c)
By: KCP When: Sep 11, 2007

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Comments: It is manufactured, but it climbed okay.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Drugs (5.11b)
By: KCP When: Sep 10, 2007

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Comments: Good finger warm-up for Power Bulge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Fly Swatter (5.10c)
By: KCP When: Sep 9, 2007

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Comments: Definitely worth a star, and not a bad warm-up for the area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : The Twilight Kid (5.11-)
By: KCP When: Sep 9, 2007

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Comments: Did the 2nd ascent, 5 minutes after Bob did the 1st. Fun moves on the upper slab. This one should clean up well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: KCP When: Sep 8, 2007

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Comments: Really fun route. Three stars if you combine the last pitch of Stayin' Alive.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : The Incredible Hulk Boulder : David Banner (5.12c)
By: KCP When: Sep 8, 2007

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Comments: Definitely not a bomb. Short but sweet. I've heard people refer to the routes on this block as boulder problems. Pitching off of the top of any of these routes would be a serious fall.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Head Cheese (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Sep 8, 2007

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Comments: This route looks more intimidating than it really is. The climbing is worth the effort.


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