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Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,047
Total Points: 593
Last Year: 171
Last 30 Days: 4
43 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has KCP been climbing?










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All 2088 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 248 | Posts 1460 | Stars 181 | Ratings 137
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Looks like it might still hold a fall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Nice send, Bob. Great historical photos.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Atlas Shrugged (5.11d R)
By: KCP When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: The route is R for sure. There is one good directional nut placement down low, although it would still be potentially a 30' ground-fall from the next moves getting to the bolt. They are maybe 10a moves but on small feet. Awesome movement.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Atlas Shrugged (5.11d R) : Photo
By: KCP When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: Got on this, today. It's not that steep. It's under vertical for the first half and then possibly a few degrees over vertical on the upper headwall. Great movement.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Curb Service (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: I agree with Nick, This thing is way harder than 10a right off the deck. From the last bolt to the anchors is solid 10a, moving left and then back right. Don't blow any of the clips.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: Is that Fred Knapp?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall
By: KCP When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: Peter makes a good point about the tunnel, and it is an easy fix. There is no need to use tunnel 6. There is a well-groomed path that walks right over it. The consequences of taking the tunnel route, if you aren't very careful and have a low-profile pack, could be deadly, and it's illegal. Just don't do it. Getting your pack snagged on a passing train and being dragged like a rag doll won't do the climbing community any favors. I've been stuck in that tunnel twice with a train, and it's not fun.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Breakfast Cliff
By: KCP When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Came across this cliff by accident, today. Really fun routes and perfectly bolted. Props to the route developer for doing this cliff justice.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : The Abyss (5.12c/d)
By: KCP When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: I enjoyed this route. Stays with you, and the fun comes right before the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: Nice send, Cody! One of my favorite pitches in Eldo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Rainbow Wall (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Felt very solid at 7c+. Definitely harder than Captain Crunch, IMO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: KCP When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: One-trick pony with fun climbing to the crux. I like the traverse climbing to the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Contest (5.11d)
By: KCP When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: It's been 19 years since I did this route, although I remember it being really high quality, in spite of its short length. It climbs much better than it looks. I'm 6', and I don't remember a problem clipping any of the bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: KCP When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: I've done the first pitch into Bolting about thirty times, and only twice ever did the second pitch, although it's also pretty fun. Pitch one into Bolting just seems like the obvious and most natural line to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Consensus is a great thing, Steve. I'm all for it, although being able to dislodge a pin with arm-force warrants it be gone, imo. Your attitude about not clipping a bad pin is the smart one. Better to have the attitude that you are soloing and cannot fall, rather to have any faith whatsoever in that the pin might catch you. Thanks to Joe for removing it. Glad it's gone.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Gill Boulder : South Face (V2+)
By: KCP When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: Did it today as a warm-up. I agree with Phil's rating. V2 feels about right. There are several V3s in the canyon that are harder than it. No way it's V4.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Play Misty (5.11c PG13) : Photo
By: KCP When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: Looks completely grown over since the mid 80s.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Biglandia : The Bitch Slap (V7)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Except for a few sharp pockets, this is an excellent traverse problem. It climbs more like a route because of its length. I've done it several times the low way, and it felt like V6.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Biglandia : The Rotund (V7)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: The transition move onto the final sloper is a heartbreaker. Took me several tries to send this thing because I underestimated that drop-down move every time.


Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : H Wall (aka J Face) : Under the Big Top (5.10 PG13)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: This and Ladder Line, IMO, were the best lead climbs in the quarry, when I lead them in the mid '80s. UTBT had great protection and fun moves through and over the roof. I think we called it 10a back then.


Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Lower Walls
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: I put a lot of mileage on these walls in the early '80s - as many as 20 to 30 laps per day - not including Alcove bouldering. A tucked-away gem in the middle of hectic, urban living.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : North Narrows Slabs : The Hitcher (5.12a/b)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Mark took me out to this route, not long after he put it up. I remember onsighting it and thinking that it was pretty easy, because of the crux being right off of the ground, and I don't remember the year. I think it was '94 or '95. If Mark or anyone else has any more info about the date, consensus grade, etc., let me know, and I'll amend the description.


Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : J Wall (aka L Face) : Ladder Line (5.11c)
By: KCP When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: This pitch was rated hard 5.10 when I lead it in the mid '80s. It has been ages, although 11c seems way off compared to 5.11 trad routes that I did back then on Cathedral and Whitehorse. Camber is rated 11b, and it's much harder, IMO.

Haven't been to the quarry since the mid '80s. I heard a rumor that a lot of the quarry has been filled in with dirt. Seems like that would change a lot of the place's character. Anyone have recent photos that they can post?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: KCP When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: I led this thing in '92, after toproping it a few times that season. Although it still felt spicey, leading it onsight would be a much more serious undertaking.

I tr'd it yesterday, after 21 yrs, and it felt harder moving past the first bolt. It has been a long time, but the horizontal crimp seems like it broke. I remember that move off of the left gaston being much easier.


Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Alcove : Breakfast of Champions (5.11)
By: KCP When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Rick West and I did a pretty cool elimination problem on BoC, around 1982 or 1983. He did the first ascent, and I did the second. It is considerably harder than Hammond Eggs, although it has been so long ago that I really couldn't rate it accurately. Maybe V5. Wonder what ever happened to Rick.


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