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Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,031
Total Points: 566
Last Year: 200
Last 30 Days: 1
37 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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All (2018) | Routes (7) | Areas | Photos (53) | Comments (231) | Posts (1457) | Stars (154) | Ratings (116)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Alcove : Breakfast of Champions (5.11)
By: KCP When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Rick West and I did a pretty cool elimination problem on BoC, around 1982 or 1983. He did the first ascent, and I did the second. It is considerably harder than Hammond Eggs, although it has been so long ago that I really couldn't rate it accurately. Maybe V5. Wonder what ever happened to Rick.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Secret Garden : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: This is a photo of Ben Moon, that I shot for Climbing Magazine, doing laps on Copperhead, about two weeks after he completely separated his shoulder snowboarding.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato...
By: KCP When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: I'm surprised that no one has posted Repo Man and that the only mention of it has an X safety rating. This was my first 5.12 lead. I accept it being down-rated to 11d, although unless the bolt that protects the crux is gone, this is not an X route. I got the nerve to lead it only after watching Jimmy Surette pitch off of the crux - coming close to, although not hitting the deck.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Work It On Out (5.12c/d V5-6)
By: KCP When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: Feet are important on this route. Would be a fun boulder problem if not for the jagged rocks under it.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : New Horizon (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: Awkward movement. Nice position.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Photo
By: KCP When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: This picture just brought me back thirty years. I remember that routine well. That guy is probably belaying from the top of Recompense or The Prow. Great stuff.


Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: KCP When: Mar 1, 2008

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Comments:
Casey wrote:
I am a climber, not a mountain biker, but I think everyone should be able to enjoy the land equally.


Excellent attitude, Casey.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Purple Wall : Pump It Until Purple (5.9)
By: KCP When: Dec 11, 2007

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Comments: The routes on this wall climb much better than they look. Fun jug-hauling on a slightly overhanging wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Splitting Hares (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Dec 4, 2007

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Comments: Strenuous, awkward moves between the 3rd and 5th bolts. It felt pretty solid at 10a. The bolting is good. No gear necessary.


Location: CO : New Fixed Hardware Review f...
By: KCP When: Nov 24, 2007

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Comments: I'm on Qwest, too.


Location: CO : New Fixed Hardware Review f...
By: KCP When: Nov 22, 2007

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Comments: I can't get it to work on IE, Firefox, Netscape, or Opera.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Rhodian Shores (5.10b)
By: KCP When: Nov 20, 2007

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Comments: Foot-intensive, interesting climbing. Some of the bolts aren't in the best spots, but they'll get you where you want to go.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Simmer (5.9)
By: KCP When: Nov 15, 2007

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Comments: Not as fun as Shimmer, IMO. After I pulled the roof, I found myself bushwacking to the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Shimmer (5.9)
By: KCP When: Nov 15, 2007

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Comments: I liked this route better than Simmer. The line was more direct, and the moves through the roof were more interesting.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Bolt Cola (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Nov 15, 2007

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Comments: Good route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: KCP When: Nov 11, 2007

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Comments: I agree with Dave. This route, compared to Chockstone, which I think has a harder and tricker crux move, is pretty straightforward. All the jams and locks are solid.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Play Misty (5.11c PG13)
By: KCP When: Nov 9, 2007

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Comments: Maybe someone should replace the missing pin with another pin.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animation aka Jaycene's Dan... (5.8)
By: KCP When: Nov 7, 2007

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Comments: This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade.

I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge.

A trick that I learned from setting gym ro... more >>


Location: Mark Cushman : Misc Pictures : Photo
By: KCP When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: Yikes!!!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Mountains closed due to ext...
By: KCP When: Oct 31, 2007

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Comments: A news report, released this morning, said that a young boy came forward and admitted to having started thes fires. See the story here.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Free Speech (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: This route is 12a to onsight, IMO. I can see how someone getting it wired, and then redpointing it, might think it were easier, but is that really how to rate a route with such short business?

If you go up there, onsight, expect it to feel like easy 5.12.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Chasing Sticks (5.9)
By: KCP When: Oct 26, 2007

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Comments: This is a very fun route, that was poorly bolted.


Location: John Hegyes : Random Images : Photo
By: KCP When: Oct 26, 2007

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Comments: Looks like a clear sign of color blindness to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock : Let the Daylight In (5.12)
By: KCP When: Oct 20, 2007

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Comments: I went up to do this route, today, and broke the crux handhold off. It was a good edge, and it is now a bad sloper. The route felt like 12- with it, but it is solid 5.12 without it. I was up there with DaBizzler, and he redpointed it without the hold. He said it is probably 12b/c now. The third clip is harder.

Be careful standing on the detached blocks at the first bolt. A basketball-size chunk broke off, when I stepped on it, and almost took out my belayer. Make sure that the belayer and rope ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Lost Dentures (5.9)
By: KCP When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: I generally agree, Dougald. Just thinking out loud. I guess it's the very short nature of this route and wall that caused me to think about it that way. The routes at Nursing Home are almost like overgrown boulder problems.


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