I removed the draws from Lucid Dreaming today. They're no longer safe. The one with the square-cut gouge in it was on the third bolt that people whip onto when they blow the lip. Several of the slings are showing visible sun and weather damage. Anyway, whoever owns them is welcome to call or message me, and I'm happy to get them back to you if you're local.
Comments: Interesting problem. Definitely worth a few burns. As far as the grade goes, and they are always subjective at best, TP feels like V8 - not V7. It's harder than Rotund, Valhalla, and several other established problems in the area and others.
The moves down low look easier if you can get the heel-hook. I can't, so the opening sequence up to the good crimp is pretty powerful for me. The problem is also temperature-dependent, so opt for colder than warmer for the turning point sequence.
Comments: Interesting, tenuous movement except for the contrived finish. You can easily reach out left to a jug, which makes the finish a relatively easy step-up. If you can reach a hold, it's in, imo.
Comments: Just did this route again, after a three-year climbing hiatus, and it took several tries after a month of fitness training. Then I did it two more times - once as a warm-up, and once at the end of the day. 12a feels more accurate than 5.11. It's definitely not 11b or c. I've climbed hundreds of routes in those ranges, all over the map, so I have a pretty good idea what they feel like. It would be interesting to know how many calling this route mid-5.11 actually onsighted it. I'm inclined to beli... more >>
Comments: I've always enjoyed this boulder problem on a rope. It has been my standard Coney Island warmup for years. There's not much to it, unless it's at your limit, in which case it will probably get your heart racing for a minute or so. It's worth doing at least once.
Comments: The route is R for sure. There is one good directional nut placement down low, although it would still be potentially a 30' ground-fall from the next moves getting to the bolt. They are maybe 10a moves but on small feet. Awesome movement.