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Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 1,045
Total Points: 607
Last Year: 106
Last 30 Days: 0
47 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has KCP been climbing?










Contributions


All 2102 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 57 | Page Improvements | Comments 252 | Posts 1462 | Stars 184 | Ratings 140
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
KC doing the victory pose after sending a long tra...

KC doing the victory pose after sending a long traverse problem at Jimmy Ratzlaff's home gym in Lafayette, CO. Probably one of the first indoor gyms in the area. Circa 1992

KCP : Memories

Mar 17, 2013

KC. Circa 1994.

KC. Circa 1994.

CO : Flatirons : ... : The Ghetto

Mar 17, 2013

My first woody, which I built my second season in ...

My first woody, which I built my second season in Boulder. Habitat Apartments, property managers would never allow this these days. I called it the Outback Wall. Peppered with Straight Up holds.

KCP : Memories

Mar 17, 2013

KC taking soaking up the view on Fine Jade. Circa ...

KC taking soaking up the view on Fine Jade. Circa 1993 or 94.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Fine Jade (5.11a)

Mar 17, 2013

KC just about to onsight Foops. Circa 1983

KC just about to onsight Foops. Circa 1983

NY : The Gunks : ... : Foops (5.11)

Mar 17, 2013

KC checking out someone's unwelcome graffiti on th...

KC checking out someone's unwelcome graffiti on the lower wall. Glad to see by the more recent photos that this paint was removed. Circa 1980 something.

MA : Hammond Pond : Lower Walls

Mar 17, 2013

KC leading Ladder Line. Circa 1985.

KC leading Ladder Line. Circa 1985.

MA : Quincy Quarries : ... : Ladder Line (5.11c)

Mar 17, 2013

Betsy doing her victory pose. This photo was taken...

Betsy doing her victory pose. This photo was taken not long before her illness permanently disabled her. Circa 2007.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Second Career (5.8)

Mar 17, 2013

KC on the upper slab. Circa 2007.

KC on the upper slab. Circa 2007.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Second Career (5.8)

Mar 17, 2013

KC heading into the dihedral. Circa 1991.

KC heading into the dihedral. Circa 1991.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Buttress (5.9+)

Mar 17, 2013

KC on an early redpoint attempt. Photo by Mark Rol...

KC on an early redpoint attempt. Photo by Mark Rolofson.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Web (5.13)

Mar 17, 2013

2005 photoshoot of Robyn Erbesfield climbing The W...

2005 photoshoot of Robyn Erbesfield climbing The Web. 2005 Ken Cangi, All Rights Reserved.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Web (5.13)

Mar 13, 2013

Another classic checked off the tick list, circa 1...

Another classic checked off the tick list, circa 1993.

CO : Golden : ... : Twitch (5.12d)

Feb 11, 2013

Copperhead

Copperhead

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Copperhead (V10)

Oct 13, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Grizzly Rose (5.10c)
By: KCP When: Nov 7, 2014

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Comments: I wonder if this is the route that I've been warming up on for Sinopia. It's about ten feet to the left of Golden Rose.


Location: Sport Climbing : The 10 Essentials of Sport ...
By: KCP When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: The Gri Gri is the vetted and preferred device for sport climbing, for obvious reasons to any seasoned sport-belayer. That said, never release the brake-end of the rope without first cinching it off with a Mule Knot. Any sudden shift in body-position can release enough pressure from the Gri Gri's cam to allow slippage, potentially dropping the climber onto a ledge or the ground. No bueno.

The beauty of the Gri Gri is in that the cam takes the weight off of the belayer's arm, allowing climbers t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Father Figure (5.11b)
By: KCP When: Oct 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route, imo, is more deserving of 3 stars than 2. The movement is very good, and several of the holds, which keep this pitch at the lower end of 5.11, are hard to see. Much harder to onsight than redpoint.

The only reachy clip, for me at 6' tall, is #4, which isn't reachy at all if you climb onto the smaller holds out right to clip it. The route wanders among hidden holds, so stay relaxed, look around, and know that there is always a good hold where you need it. The final headwall abo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: KCP When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Buried Alive feels like the most natural line of pitches. Very fun three-pitch 5.9. Great intro for aspiring 5.9 leaders. Carry your approach shoes, as the walk-off is much easier and faster than rapping.

Pitch 1: (Buried Treasure) 5.8-
Pitch 2: (Buried Treasure) 5.6
Pitch 3: (Staying Alive crux) 5.9.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Buried Alive feels like the most natural line of pitches. Very fun three-pitch 5.9. Great intro for aspiring 5.9 leaders. Carry your approach shoes, as the walk-off is much easier and faster than rapping.

Pitch 1: (Buried Treasure) 5.8-
Pitch 2: (Buried Treasure) 5.6
Pitch 3: (Staying Alive crux) 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: KCP When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Freesoloed this one by moonlight, way back in the day, and got blacked out in the upper dihedral because the moon was off to the right around the corner. I was grateful for big holds and eventually turning back onto the face and some moonlight to top out. Haven't been there in decades, although the Gunks was always a good time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : The Monument (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: GEAR ALERT!

I got on this route, the other day (10/07/2014), and the first bolt is partially levered out of the hole, bent, and rusting. These are probably the same bolts that were there when I sent this route back in '92. They need to be replace before someone breaks on and decks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: This is an interesting route with varied climbing. It starts with a short, straightforward, 11c/d dihedral to a bivy ledge, followed by two short boulder problems (V6 to a V5) split by a jug, and then a 11b dihedral to the anchors. It's not over until you gain the slab. I'm giving this route 3 stars for the quality of climbing overall.

Props to anyone so strong that this feels like 12c. Climbers at their limit in this grade will likely be disappointed if they get on this rig thinking that it's ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Stuffed Wolf (5.13b)
By: KCP When: Sep 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The crux move to the right-hand pinch is a stopper for me. Went out there with Pinklebear. He sent on his 4th go. Great movement. The 5.1 approach is casual. The best way up is the west-facing, steeper, juggy face to the right of SW. I did it in wet, water shoes, a pack on, and a clipping stick in one hand. Nothing to worry about as long as you don't fall.

SW is not a giveaway. Feels solid at the grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: KCP When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: This one flummoxed me for two sessions until I finally unlocked a crux sequence that worked. I found no way to make the hand-jam feel anywhere near 12a/b. That rattly jam felt much harder.

Spoiler Alert:

I finally discovered that working my right hand up the arete and moving my left foot onto the glued hold allowed me to reach the left-hand, gaston-crimp out left on the headwall. Once I had that in hand, I got my right foot up on the dike, bumped my right hand all the... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: KCP When: Sep 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Got on TDD for the first time, today. I walked away not loving the route, although, in retrospect, I might have judged prematurely. It was hot up there, smelled like urine at the base, and I felt that the climbing up to the crux was less than memorable. The short compression sequence at the top was somewhat interesting, although out of character with everything below it. Maybe I'm nitpicking.

I had no beta going in, and I managed to unlock the crux in a few minutes. Not sure why people are fin... more >>


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