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Member Since: Feb 21, 2011
Last Visit: Apr 5, 2014
Contact Zane Dordai


Point Rank: # 4,118
Total Points: 93
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (152) | Routes (2) | Areas | Photos (7) | Comments (38) | Posts (33) | Stars (54) | Ratings (18)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Photo
By: Zane Dordai When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: photo cred nate labiniec, of course


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill Bouldering : Outbreak Area : The Classic One (V5)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Hey Mo,

Yeah, The Hop (V7) as it is called is also an excellent line. There is another line on this boulder that I think is rarely done that also has some fantastic moves. It starts down and t the left of the standing start for the classic one. Start sitting in two horizontal jug shelves and continue straight up from there doing a few tough crimp moves. I remember there being some huge feet and very small crimps. Traverse the seam right for a few feet and finish on the classic one. When I was t... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Apocalypse Later (5.11c/d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Savage and fantastic indeed. Definitely contains some of the smallest holds ive grabbed at the top of a climb this grade. One of my favorite climbs anywhere.


Location: PA : Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... : Caves Trail East : Photo (Copy)
By: Zane Dordai When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: this problem is always wet. literally, always. i have gone after 4 days of no rain (which is rare enough on the east coast) and the start hold was still damp. my friend and I are going to clean out the crack that holds dirt and detritus. with nothing to hold moisture, the boulder should have some dry days and will therefore be one of the best in the area...right now i'd give it 1 star just due to the fact that I've never been able to try it dry.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Crystal (5.11b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: This climb became my favorite warmup for the harder 12s due to its consistent nature on all decent holds. Nothing too sharp either. Last I remember the bolts were angle iron and a little sketchy (had a friend take some big whips on them one time though, so they seem to be okay), but everything else about this climb is sweet.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : No Money Down (Left) : Student Loan (5.11b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Low stars because it's 10-15 feet of climbing, often wet, and when not wet very dirty. I cleaned it up but it will no doubt be dirty again by now. Definitely a few fun moves in the roof, but some awkward and scrunchy ones for me as well. Worth doing though if you're in the area and want something like no money down with some harder moves.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Horned Behavior (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: good to hear you're trying it mike! good luck man! I think its all about getting to that last move with a little juice...I also found hitting the hold in a worse position and then bumping to the meat wrap worked better for me. I've got a week off in october and i'm fairly certain i'll be back up in Rumney then. For now...the draws are up until mid October or until some sorry bastard comes along and takes em. Keep in mind you'll need 2 more plus anchors (or just stick clip the second, might be go... more >>


Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Shape Shifter (5.12c)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Aside from a few hollow flakes in the roof (some of which are very large...be careful!!) this climb goes up a section of bullet stone on perfect holds with very interesting crux moves and a heartbreaker pump crux. Previous beta didn't use some of the intermediate crimps between the "work bench" and the large hold to the left of the last clip (the bolt in the roof). Please refrain from using these holds until they are cleaned up (The flake with a large X is moving when weighted. Careful!). A clas... more >>


Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Cold Vein (5.12d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: 4 star line, and feels pretty hard for this grade either way. probably 13a if youre under 5'8 or so. I am around 5'10 with a -2 ape index and can BARELY reach the crux hold in full lock off. Reachy moves on some of the coolest holds I have grabbed. This route reminds me of Kundalini in Rumney but without a kneebar in the crux.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Horned Behavior (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Some vague beta in here:In my opinion Mark, the first section is very pumpy but probably factors mostly out of the overall grade due to the sit down. I do agree, there are some very reachy moves in there that would make it quite a good deal harder if you were shorter. The continuous nature of the upper section with the tough last clip and huge move to the sidepull meatwrap thing seemed really low percentage to me. I had to hit the hold just right with my palm and I missed it quite a few t... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Machine Head (5.11c/d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: classic rig. at least as hard as pulse, and in my opinion as hard as many of the 12a's I have done. either the hardest 11d ever or a soft 12a...but either way one of Rumney's best short climbs. another great non-awkward mantle finish.

beta spoiler: the dihedral definitely contained the hardest moves on the route, but the pump hits you on the mantle.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Horned Behavior (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: This climb is 12c (felt almost as hard as aquarius both with good beta) if we are keeping in line with traditional Rumney grades. I left my draws on this and hurt my shoulder. I've left the area and won't be back until the end of September or so. If I'm not back by then, Tom (armstrong) generously offered to clean them off.

Until then, all but the first draw and the first draw above the break are hung (first needs to be stick clipped and the one after the break is easy to hang/clean). I also cl... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Pulse Wall : Pulse (5.11d) : Photo
By: Zane Dordai When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: I tried both betas for this move and the left way is WAY easier (for me and both of my climbing partners, all around 5'10), and in my opinion a bit less grovely/cooler. Still a great route either way, but I think the left way makes it as close to 4 stars as a 30 ft route can get...


Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Anarchist (5.13b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: This climb appeared to have its own separate anchors to the left of Psycho Jap and a separate finish. Is this the case or are you supposed to traverse? Or was I crazy and are the anchors the same? The topout definitely looked tough either way. Pretty psyched to try this thing out soon.


Location: NH : Rumney : Pulse Wall : Pulse (5.11d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, no underclings for me either. Incredible moves all the way through which get even better at the top. 3 stars only for length, but flawless rock quality and super cool movements make this one worth the extra little hike. My favorite short sport route.


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : War and Peace (5.9+)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jul 18, 2013

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Comments: Masterpiece and Centerpiece were both wet up top today but this one stayed dry in between the crucial holds...enough so to the point where it didn't really matter what was wet. Plenty of big dry feet to choose from. Felt harder and better than Masterpiece for me. A great day starter, and tons of unique movement.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Skip and Sandy Boulder : Deacon Variation (V7)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: Definitely feels at least a grade harder than smoke and mirrors, which feels spot on. agree with the height dependence, but the move to the arete is hard. v7 to me...maybe v6+ when its freezing cold.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Spew (5.13a) : Photo
By: Zane Dordai When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: My bad, Chris. Fixed it up.


Location: NH : Rumney : Venus Wall : Neptune (5.13a)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jul 3, 2013

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Comments: comments on 8a.nu have shown that this guy hasn't changed in grade since the break. psyched to get on it in a week to see!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Reality Check (5.12)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: Definitely 12c and also definitely one of the best slightly overhung crimping routes I've ever been on. Amazing sequences and mostly good/incut feet. The sequence is incredible on this one, and I haven't climbed on a route this consistently difficult in a long time. Perfectly bolted, bullet rock, and in this case, 60 feet of rock climbing is plenty. We also stick clipped the first bolt. An excellently done line by the developers.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Citrasolve (5.10c)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: consistent, pumpy climbing on pretty good rock, worthy of more stars in my opinion.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Only Entertainment (5.13b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for those two draws up top. Hanging the first draw on the headwall is potentially dangerous without a cam; definitely don't fall clipping it. This climb is incredibly sustained for how difficult it is. One of the best on the wall.

EDIT: I left my project draws up here sometime in May of this year, and when I returned to grab them the other day, they were gone. I understand I left them a while, but I was wondering if the current person who has their draws hung on the route knows... more >>


Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Psycho Jap (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: got on this thing today...the top sloper was baking in the sun and I clipped the chains, went for it....and slid off pretty much instantly even despite chalking before it. I'm taking the send so I can feel better about myself, but that direct topout feels downright impossible in 70 degrees and sun; the sloper just bakes and its a pretty crummy hold as well. I could have topped out to the right on seemingly better holds as well. Regardless if this thing was 20ft longer it would compare ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Gym Arete Direct (5.12c)
By: Zane Dordai When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: If you're climbing the grade, skip the arcing traditional start and just do this one. Continuous difficulty makes perfect beta on the upper crux essential. I'd agree with one of the best routes at Shelf and easily one of the best I've done.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Aoxamoxoa (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: Enjoyable moves, but a very, very sharp crux at the top had me almost bleeding after only a handful of attempts. Beautiful rock, great sequences and excellent protection, but razor sharp in spots, more so than others on this wall.


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