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Member Since: Feb 21, 2011
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Zane Dordai


Point Rank: # 4,515
Total Points: 94
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Zane Dordai been climbing?










Contributions


All 153 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 33 | Stars 54 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Swiss Cheese

V3+ 6A+ (3)

Boulder, 10'

CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Mongoose Block

Feb 5, 2012

The Classic One

V5 6C (6)

Boulder, 15'

NY : The Gunks : ... : Quarantine Area & Outbreak ...

Aug 21, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Ryan Richitelli trying Modern Collective in not-so...

Ryan Richitelli trying Modern Collective in not-so-prime summer conditions, Photo Nate Labiniec

CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

Oct 25, 2013

Looking up from the bottom. Steep.

Looking up from the bottom. Steep.

CO : Shelf Road : ... : The Ejection Seat (5.12b/c)

Nov 18, 2012

The bottom 2/3rds. Amazing rock.

The bottom 2/3rds. Amazing rock.

CO : Shelf Road : ... : The Ejection Seat (5.12b/c)

Nov 18, 2012

Microfridge.

Microfridge.

CO : South Platte : ... : The Microfridge (5.12-)

Sep 18, 2012

Brain Freeze starts either at the ledge or climbs ...

Brain Freeze starts either at the ledge or climbs the pitch of 5.6 slab beforehand. 70m rope required if done with the slab!!

CO : South Platte : ... : Brain Freeze (5.10d)

Sep 18, 2012

Spew starts on the ramp and heads up the arete pow...

Spew starts on the ramp and heads up the arete powerfully to the chalked jug on the arete proper at 1/3 height. It climbs through cryptic 11+ climbing after the initial powerful boulder crux. The line

CO : South Platte : ... : Spew (5.13a)

May 7, 2012

Only Entertainment goes up the slab to the bottom ...

Only Entertainment goes up the slab to the bottom left point of the middle brown streak, then heads up and slightly left through the thin features to the top of the cliff.

CO : South Platte : ... : Only Entertainment (5.13b)

May 7, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : Nowhere Man (V7)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: this problem is incredible! great crimps and the landing is not bad. for a moment there I wished the crimps on this wall were up on the sport routes up the hill...

the moves after the big move are not so bad. I cleaned some more holds (and feet) out left and the line still finishes direct, there is just no scary committing move to the top anymore. all static.

I definitely disagree with this problem being sketchy or having a "bad landing". after falling on the crux move a couple times with very... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Photo
By: Zane Dordai When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: photo cred nate labiniec, of course


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill Bouldering : Quarantine Area & Outbreak ... : The Classic One (V5)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Hey Mo,

Yeah, The Hop (V7) as it is called is also an excellent line. There is another line on this boulder that I think is rarely done that also has some fantastic moves. It starts down and t the left of the standing start for the classic one. Start sitting in two horizontal jug shelves and continue straight up from there doing a few tough crimp moves. I remember there being some huge feet and very small crimps. Traverse the seam right for a few feet and finish on the classic one. When I was t... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Apocalypse Later (5.11c/d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Savage and fantastic indeed. Definitely contains some of the smallest holds ive grabbed at the top of a climb this grade. One of my favorite climbs anywhere.


Location: PA : Southeastern Lowlands : Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... : Caves Trail East : Photo (Copy)
By: Zane Dordai When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: this problem is always wet. literally, always. i have gone after 4 days of no rain (which is rare enough on the east coast) and the start hold was still damp. my friend and I are going to clean out the crack that holds dirt and detritus. with nothing to hold moisture, the boulder should have some dry days and will therefore be one of the best in the area...right now i'd give it 1 star just due to the fact that I've never been able to try it dry.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Crystal (5.11b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: This climb became my favorite warmup for the harder 12s due to its consistent nature on all decent holds. Nothing too sharp either. Last I remember the bolts were angle iron and a little sketchy (had a friend take some big whips on them one time though, so they seem to be okay), but everything else about this climb is sweet.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : No Money Down (Left) : Student Loan (5.11b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Low stars because it's 10-15 feet of climbing, often wet, and when not wet very dirty. I cleaned it up but it will no doubt be dirty again by now. Definitely a few fun moves in the roof, but some awkward and scrunchy ones for me as well. Worth doing though if you're in the area and want something like no money down with some harder moves.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Horned Behavior (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: good to hear you're trying it mike! good luck man! I think its all about getting to that last move with a little juice...I also found hitting the hold in a worse position and then bumping to the meat wrap worked better for me. I've got a week off in october and i'm fairly certain i'll be back up in Rumney then. For now...the draws are up until mid October or until some sorry bastard comes along and takes em. Keep in mind you'll need 2 more plus anchors (or just stick clip the second, might be go... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Shape Shifter (5.12c)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Aside from a few hollow flakes in the roof (some of which are very large...be careful!!) this climb goes up a section of bullet stone on perfect holds with very interesting crux moves and a heartbreaker pump crux. Previous beta didn't use some of the intermediate crimps between the "work bench" and the large hold to the left of the last clip (the bolt in the roof). Please refrain from using these holds until they are cleaned up (The flake with a large X is moving when weighted. Careful!). A clas... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Cold Vein (5.12d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: 4 star line, and feels pretty hard for this grade either way. probably 13a if youre under 5'8 or so. I am around 5'10 with a -2 ape index and can BARELY reach the crux hold in full lock off. Reachy moves on some of the coolest holds I have grabbed. This route reminds me of Kundalini in Rumney but without a kneebar in the crux.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Horned Behavior (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Some vague beta in here:In my opinion Mark, the first section is very pumpy but probably factors mostly out of the overall grade due to the sit down. I do agree, there are some very reachy moves in there that would make it quite a good deal harder if you were shorter. The continuous nature of the upper section with the tough last clip and huge move to the sidepull meatwrap thing seemed really low percentage to me. I had to hit the hold just right with my palm and I missed it quite a few t... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Machine Head (5.11c/d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: classic rig. at least as hard as pulse, and in my opinion as hard as many of the 12a's I have done. either the hardest 11d ever or a soft 12a...but either way one of Rumney's best short climbs. another great non-awkward mantle finish.

beta spoiler: the dihedral definitely contained the hardest moves on the route, but the pump hits you on the mantle.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Horned Behavior (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: This climb is 12c (felt almost as hard as aquarius both with good beta) if we are keeping in line with traditional Rumney grades. I left my draws on this and hurt my shoulder. I've left the area and won't be back until the end of September or so. If I'm not back by then, Tom (armstrong) generously offered to clean them off.

Until then, all but the first draw and the first draw above the break are hung (first needs to be stick clipped and the one after the break is easy to hang/clean). I also cl... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Pulse Wall : Pulse (5.11d) : Photo
By: Zane Dordai When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: I tried both betas for this move and the left way is WAY easier (for me and both of my climbing partners, all around 5'10), and in my opinion a bit less grovely/cooler. Still a great route either way, but I think the left way makes it as close to 4 stars as a 30 ft route can get...


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Anarchist (5.13b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: This climb appeared to have its own separate anchors to the left of Psycho Jap and a separate finish. Is this the case or are you supposed to traverse? Or was I crazy and are the anchors the same? The topout definitely looked tough either way. Pretty psyched to try this thing out soon.


Location: NH : Rumney : Pulse Wall : Pulse (5.11d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, no underclings for me either. Incredible moves all the way through which get even better at the top. 3 stars only for length, but flawless rock quality and super cool movements make this one worth the extra little hike. My favorite short sport route.


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