Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Only Entertainment (5.13b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for those two draws up top. Hanging the first draw on the headwall is potentially dangerous without a cam; definitely don't fall clipping it. This climb is incredibly sustained for how difficult it is. One of the best on the wall.
|
Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Psycho Jap (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: got on this thing today...the top sloper was baking in the sun and I clipped the chains, went for it....and slid off pretty much instantly even despite chalking before it. I'm taking the send so I can feel better about myself, but that direct topout feels downright impossible in 70 degrees and sun; the sloper just bakes and its a pretty crummy hold as well. I could have topped out to the right on seemingly better holds as well. Regardless if this thing was 20ft longer it would compare ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Gym Arete Direct (5.12c)
By: Zane Dordai When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're climbing the grade, skip the arcing traditional start and just do this one. Continuous difficulty makes perfect beta on the upper crux essential. I'd agree with one of the best routes at Shelf and easily one of the best I've done.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Aoxamoxoa (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Enjoyable moves, but a very, very sharp crux at the top had me almost bleeding after only a handful of attempts. Beautiful rock, great sequences and excellent protection, but razor sharp in spots, more so than others on this wall.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Barbecueing Traditions (5.12-)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jan 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Semi-spoiler alert! After the big jug rest at the 5th bolt, I traversed out right into a small dihedral and then back left over the arete. One also has the potential for a huge, albeit totally safe, fall if they blow the last move before that 6th clip. I saw pretty much no holds going straight up through the bolt line, so traversing seemed most logical and made the route very diverse and interesting, but is this what is traditionally done? One of the best at Shelf that I've tried....
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Arnold! Arnold! (5.11d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome headwall and rock quality all the way through; thought there were a couple cruxy moves. The top, though sharp in places, has a few hidden, incut holds that are actually very friendly and sequential. With perfect beta through the headwall/slab transition, you shouldn't need to aggressively grab anything significantly sharper than Shelf standards.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Gym Arete (5.12a)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spoiler alert!: Maybe I had bad beta, but I disagree with a lot of the comments about this not being very cruxy. The entry moves were all on pretty good holds ('twas a bit sequential but no hard moves) to a really tiny hold and then some sustained outro moves. The end was awesome in that there were for sure a few places where one could fall; I almost fell hiking my feet up with the anchors right in my face. Definitely one of the best Shelf and all time routes that I've done...get on it... more >>
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Crack of Dawn (5.10b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is incredible. Perfect lieback movement if you choose not to jam. Excellent thoughtful crux as well. Some holds were loose.... I would absolutely not trust gear in this rock. Thank you to whoever bolted this and made it accessible to everyone!
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : Frozen in Time (5.12a)
By: Zane Dordai When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: With more traffic, this climb will be four full stars. The crux arete is mostly clean where you need it, and the holds have been cleaned up as of the date of this post. Get after it; this is probably one of the best lines on the wall. Do not read on if you do not want beta! The bird's nest is still present on the ledge before the anchors; be careful where you grab! It has not been inhabited for what appears to be a while...another detail of note is that the arete is ma... more >>
|
Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Smoke and Mirrors Boulder : Smoke and Mirrors (V6)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used the little crimper for my right hand that is described and the better crimp (out of the two seriously chalked low things) in my left and did a big move left hand to the slopers to start. that felt like the coolest, lowest, and most natural start to me. the arete holds on the right side are so cool!! great texture. sent in crazy humidity; the rock is so grippy you don't need good temps, just good skin...and get it on your first few burns! One of the best in the pound.
|
Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Holderness Corner : White Rhino (5.11c)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: got on this thing a couple days ago on my annual long trip to rumney. i cleaned the upper section and ticked holds, thinking I would redpoint and scrub them. I ended up cleaning my gear as the rain began to come down and this was the last climb of my trip, so I hope the ticks arent too obvious and I hope someone gets on this thing while the top is still clean.
This part is a spoiler, so don't read if you don't want any info about the route: The crux seemed to be that big stopper move at the 3r... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge : Floater aka Center Route (V5)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Though I never really fell in love with Ute Valley, this problem is super classic. It felt like very solid V5 from what I know.
Beta spoiler alert: I used the chick, power crimp out right for my right hand to perch on a far, high, and good right foot which freed my right hand to grab the good sidepull pinch. Felt 5 to me that way. The first move, though very big, just takes some dialing in if you have trouble on big moves.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bronaugh Wall : Little Teapot (5.12a)
By: Zane Dordai When: Apr 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some vague beta: Though the feature forms a crack near the top, our group saw it as intuitive to pinch the left hand and climb it like an oppositional boulder problem with holds out right. it's probably only a bit harder than the lower crux and really really fun.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Bouldering : The Snake Pit Area : ... : Swiss Cheese (V3+)
By: Zane Dordai When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Happy to change the grade, but I definitely felt as if this thing felt harder than 3 for the Garden.
|
Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Riverside Boulders : Feels Like Grit (V8)
By: Zane Dordai When: Feb 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did it without the arete using a sidepull out right. Stood up on a good left foot and grabbed a slot right before the topout with my left hand I believe. Felt pretty hard, but easier than climbing the arete. Kind of hard to call it the same climb though...
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : Monkey Hang (V2+)
By: Zane Dordai When: Feb 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of Late January 2012, the start jug is flexing considerably. Start matched on the sidepull to preserve this great problem! Those who had done it both ways felt it was around the same grade; the crux remains matching the jug at the lip...
|
Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Ahab Calling (V3)
By: Zane Dordai When: Nov 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes. my brother and i started from the right jug slopers and did the first move to the sloping rail, which was awesome. the rest of the route felt pretty crimpy...definitely hard for a 3. we thought the sit went at around v5, and maybe v4 from the sloping ledge. that being said, this thing is probably almost as hard as sign of the cross in hueco, so...
|
RSS Feed
