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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : The Coliseum : Gladiator (5.11b) : Photo
By: zack d When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you heel hooking that giant pile of pack rat turds?
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Location: sibylle : Interesting photos : Photo
By: zack d When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: where is that? its so amazing that it looks fake.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Lats Don't Have Feelings (5.11d)
By: zack d When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A heads up.... The 3rd bolt and the 5th bolt are pretty bad, particularly the 3rd. From below, you can see a cm or so of the bolt sleeve. If the 3rd pulls (seems like it will sometime soon), decking will happen. If someone has the expertise and equipment, I would be happy to help. Too good a climb to have such shoddy gear on.
Looks like a same hole replacement will not work. The hole is eroded and flared on the bottom side.
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Location: Jared O'Brien : 'Adventures of The Man In W... : Photo
By: zack d When: Feb 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: did he send? musta been difficult with those big paws.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Prince of Darkness (5.11a)
By: zack d When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux hold is broken. The climb is a bit harder now. Don't know how much harder (I could not do it), maybe 11c-11d? Too bad, the old hold was one of the best crimpers in memory.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: zack d When: Aug 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I finger tightened the second bolt 1.5 rotations. Perhaps a wrench is in order. I need a nut tool w/ a built in wrench.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Wired (5.10a/b)
By: zack d When: Jul 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It took tons of work to make this climb somewhat safe. Some very funky looking, difficult to obtain gear. 10- climbing, 11 gear. some fun moves.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Wine and Roses (5.11-)
By: zack d When: Jun 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. The rock and gear are not so good for the first 20 feet, but after the start the climbing and gear are great. Nice and steep. Clipping the first two bolts on the sport climb to the right is a safer alternative, but would change the routes character. 10+/11-
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Location: mobley : various : Photo
By: zack d When: Jun 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was stumped....so i busted a breakdance move....THE WORM.
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Location: AZ : Tam O'Shanter
By: zack d When: Feb 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock is Quartzite, a metamorphosed sandstone. The space between the sand grains is filled with silica cement and when the rock is broken it will break through the sand grains or pebbles unlike sandstone which breaks around the grains and pebbles. It is much harder than granite. It is almost horizontally layered and features occasional horizontal cracks and pockets. Famous quartzite areas are the Gunks, Ny. and Arapiles, Australia. Other North American areas are Seneca, Wv., Moores Wal... more >>
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall North : No More Tiers (5.11a) : Photo
By: zack d When: Jan 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did what Tavis said and removed a tree and some rope. great climb. The colors are exagerated, but the orange coating on the rock really sticks out in my memory.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Slicer (5.10c)
By: zack d When: Jan 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If the name didn't give it away, this is very sharp.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Unnamed 5.10 (5.10)
By: zack d When: Sep 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the anchor bolts was hanging partway out of the hole spring 07'. This climb sucks anyway. Watched a girl almost deck from the top of this pile. She was placing a piece in the upper crack when she fell, bounced off the ledge and sailed head-first toward the ground to be stopped 5' above the ground and slammed face-first into the corner. The piece that caught her was a green camalot. It broke out a couple of inches of rock and had only two lobes left in the crack. Yikes!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Brother : Maple Jam (5.10a)
By: zack d When: Aug 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good description. The belay is non-existent. My girlfriend belayed in the squeeze chimmney with the only gear: her. I would have downclimbed, but it was dangerously loose, so instead I continued up on the hold-less dirt filled groove with deathfall potential. Finally a piece went in--# 4 Camalot,3.5 Camalot/4.0 Friend. Then the climb is ok.
I would not recommend this to anyone, unless they have a bolt kit to make this slightly safe.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Goode : North Buttress (5.9)
By: zack d When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a hard time finding the official start. The one we did felt 5.10. It was harder than any other pitch on the climb. Great sand descent. Very fun running down little sand chutes. The easiest descent I've done in the Sierras. Goode route to do in a day.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : Orc Sighs (5.10c)
By: zack d When: Jul 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Three times as good as the orc. Or at least 3 times as much climbing. Tcus on the traverse and an exciting, grainy, mantle finish, well above your gear.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: zack d When: Jun 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am relatively new to Eldo (30 routes or so). I think the anchor at the top of pitch one is uninspiring. The anchor spot consists of a large block wedged into the crack. It is possible, though unlikely, that it could move and spit out your gear. I did not have one piece I trusted 100%, much less three, so I put in 7 pieces in five different cracks around all the loose junk. Yes, it was overkill, but an anchor is supposed to be overkill. Especially in this case where the first 25 feet of t... more >>
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