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Sentinel boulder Moe's valley


Member Since: Sep 29, 2008
Last Visit: Jan 15, 2013
Contact ZachBradford


Point Rank: # 431
Total Points: 1,310
Last Year: 0
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Areas are worth 15
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All (486) | Routes (67) | Areas (17) | Photos (64) | Comments (65) | Posts (25) | Stars (187) | Ratings (61)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Cedar Slide Bouldering
By: ZachBradford When: Oct 9, 2011

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Comments: You can see from the photo that flanigan's boulder made it through the landslide.

Article about landslide

The question is whether it will make it through the clean-up.

With a bit of luck it will make it through and gain a few large friends.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder : The Assassin (V8-9)
By: ZachBradford When: Jul 15, 2011

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Comments:


Eliminate beta descriptions can be inadequate so if you are looking for something better The Assassin is the second to last problem in this video.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder
By: ZachBradford When: Jul 15, 2011

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Comments:



This video shows most of the problems.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder : Psychological Disorder (V10)
By: ZachBradford When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: beta photo


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder
By: ZachBradford When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: Psychological disorder unlocked at V10. Still one hard pure line left on the roof...


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : K-8 (5.11b)
By: ZachBradford When: Jul 6, 2011

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Comments: Without saying more than some people want to hear, it involves a pretty blind reach over the lip of the roof(holds are good enough below roof you can feel around if necessary).... Establish on the holds then look for a high-step on the lip of the roof. Its not a great foothold, but trust it and it works. I'm 5' 7" and can reach all the holds to do the moves static.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Brian Head
By: ZachBradford When: Jun 22, 2011

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Comments: If you are heading up from St. George or Las Vegas access to these crags may be faster and shorter by driving up Cedar Canyon from Cedar City. Take Highway 14 East to Highway 148 (this is also the turn for Cedar Breaks National Monument). Drive through Cedar Breaks (no fee required if you're just driving through) and make a right (east) on Highway 143. The Sport climbing areas are located at various distances down this road.

The Overlook- 4.7 miles to the Sydney Valley Rd (Forest Road 048).

Th... more >>


Location: UT : Cedar City : Brian Head : The Overlook
By: ZachBradford When: Jun 22, 2011

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Comments: Due to the heavy snowfall this year Sydney Valley road is still closed. It is not opened until the road fully dries out. I would anticipate it opening in the sometime next 2 weeks.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder : Closing time (V8)
By: ZachBradford When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: Broke again a few weeks ago. I think the choss is finally gone. With this break it settles in at V8.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Graveside Matter Wall : La Santa Muerta (5.11a/b)
By: ZachBradford When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: I just went up and climbed the route for the third time because it is that good.

I was a bit disappointed to find that the anchors had been moved several feet lower eliminating the final crux moves.

The route is still one of the best 5.11's in Cedar Canyon but it lost a bit of its finale.

I appreciate all the bolting Gordon and his crew put in. I was just wondering why the anchors were lowered?

Once again I really enjoy all the routes you have put up, Thanks for putting the time, e... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex
By: ZachBradford When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: Ibex may have the most frictionless rock on the planet.

I got some help from the perfect send shoe for Ibex: Muira VS resoled with 5.10 stealth rubber.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder
By: ZachBradford When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: Flannigan Boulder makes sense. I will switch it.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder : The Windmill (V3)
By: ZachBradford When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: Low start from crimps under roof adds about 1 V-grade.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder : Closing time (V8)
By: ZachBradford When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Did the moves again. Its about the same. Not enough difference to warrant a major change in grade.


Location: UT : Saint George
By: ZachBradford When: Apr 26, 2011

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Comments: I agree that the description should be rewritten. The area is/has become a destination climbing area with more than a few classic routes.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder : Closing time (V8)
By: ZachBradford When: Apr 22, 2011

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Comments: Right hand start hold has broken completely off. Now easier, not sure how hard.


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : K-8 (5.11b)
By: ZachBradford When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: Bad beta may have created a definite crux. Every move can be done statically with 3 points on.
The roof can be tricky to negotiate but with a bit of patience, beta can be discovered that makes the movement pretty straight forward. (No throw involved)
I only say this so someone who avoids dynamic movement won't avoid getting on the route. The route is an excellent 11b, not the best in Utah but well worth the time.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Stick to your Guns (5.12a)
By: ZachBradford When: Mar 31, 2011

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Comments: Beta at lip is the crux toss to a deep 2-3 finger pocket. Then proceed up the face on the best holds you can find. They are better to the left of the bolt line if I remember correctly.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : The Flying Dragon (5.13c)
By: ZachBradford When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: I have not been on the route but I have been sizing it up for an attempt. I believe a key hold has broken off near the end of the crux.(Disclaimer: I didn't break it) Before breaking it was always ticked and i think it is the flat "jug" the description refers too. (from the ground it previously looked like a large slot.) Can anyone confirm this? It seems that with the hold gone it makes the last throw about a foot longer. Any beta on the hold/route would be appreciated.


Location: UT : Parowan
By: ZachBradford When: Jan 20, 2011

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Comments: Their is much more than what is shown here. A general over view of the area. (off the top of my head) 2-5.9 and under 6-5.10 4- 5.11 5-5.12.
I recommend if you are in the area for any period of time pick up a copy of "Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah and the Arizona Strip."


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Graveside Matter Wall : Heucos from Hades (5.12- PG13)
By: ZachBradford When: Sep 22, 2010

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Comments: Excellent route with good movement up top.

Route starts with 15 of choss but leads into excellent edges with a stout crimping crux.

Thanks for putting in the time.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Graveside Matter Wall : Mulato (5.10d PG13)
By: ZachBradford When: Aug 5, 2010

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Comments: After reading the posts on Utahclimbers.com it looks like its a case of mistake identity. This line is actually to the left of the original line of "widowmaker"

I have changed the name to the proper name of "Mulato".

Check out the Utahclimbers.com link above if you have questions.
It seems that it was checked out earlier and declared "kosher" by members of the original crew who put the line up.

Read the other post!


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Graveside Matter Wall : Mulato (5.10d PG13)
By: ZachBradford When: Aug 1, 2010

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Comments: I am all for respecting the vision of the first ascentionist but the route has been bolted for at least 4 years. When it was bolted that was the time to complain and pull the bolts, if they were going to be pulled. I think the route has now been established in the current community as a sport route. I think it would be a heart pumping trad route for anyone who is ready to give it a shot on gear. I say keep the bolts its not like the bolts are stopping any hard men from doing the route on gear... more >>


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Graveside Matter Wall : Lap Dance (5.10d PG13)
By: ZachBradford When: Aug 1, 2010

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Comments: Hey TP the picture I put up really make messes up the scale. Sorry about that. The anchors for the route were put up in 2005 so there is no way that this is widow maker. Widow maker is further to the left.

As mentioned the picture doesn't really give the route proper scale. The first pocket you can see is at head height it would be a useless placement.

The first location you could place gear would be at 20 feet and then one more at around 30 feet. After the Third bolt the route does run to... more >>


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Graveside Matter Wall : Mulato (5.10d PG13)
By: ZachBradford When: Aug 1, 2010

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Comments: Hey TP I'm almost positive this is Widow maker. You can place gear near the large pod down low. Then gear in slots at mid height. And a final piece can be placed on the vertical/bulge section before running it to the top.

It was Retro bolted by an unknown party a few years back.


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