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Korea 1 1975


Member Since: Aug 7, 2003
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact YDPL8S


Point Rank: # 627
Total Points: 925
Last Year: 29
Last 30 Days: 2
23 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has YDPL8S been climbing?










Contributions


All (1254) | Routes | Areas | Photos (109) | Comments (380) | Posts (576) | Stars (97) | Ratings (92)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs : North End Pillars (WI3-4) : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 9, 2010

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Comments: That is the exact hammer and pick I used when I first went ice climbing......I know, kind of sad that that's what I noticed.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Groove Rock aka Leap of Fai... : Dancin' Fool (5.9+)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 8, 2010

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Comments: I noticed that Will gave it 5.7 rating. I have no idea where the bolts are now, but from John's photo, the area he is denoting as Dancin' Fool had at least 3 different toprope routes that we played around on. They probably ranged from 5.7 to 5.9, some on crystal strings and some on lichen filled smear cups.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Winter Dreams / Gene and Ge... (5.10c)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 8, 2010

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Comments: Thanks Slim, yeah he was always one of those quiet guys that didn't talk about it, but just did everything he did better than anybody else.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Winter Dreams / Gene and Ge... (5.10c)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 8, 2010

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Comments: Slim, Craig Lightburn! there's a name from the past. He and I went to Golden High School together. I knew he was a climber but he was already pushing the hard stuff when I was leading 5.7s in the early to mid '70s. Do you have any idea of where he is nowadays?

Yeah George, it's quite possible they didn't make their FA known. I knew lots of guys from that time that put up FAs in the Platte and Clear Creek that climbed FAs for the thrill of the unknown and the challenge of route finding on an... more >>


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : Y-Crack (5.10d)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 2, 2010

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Comments: I was with the late Scotty Gilbert (of Gunnison fame) and "Madman" Geoff Conley (of Red Rocks fame) when they did an ascent of this in 1976 or '77. I was supposed to join them on the climb but it was out of my league at the time (I don't think I really ever was in that league), and so I let them have at it :-), they were both very strong climbers. I remember Conley using tape on his hands, that was the first time I had ever seen that done, and of course it was all hexes and stoppers, I'm prett... more >>


Location: Joe Ballent : Flaming Gorge Deep Water So... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 1, 2010

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Comments: Holy sh*&!!!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 25, 2010

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Comments: Back in the '70s, before it got so polished and slick, you could walk right up it, even in non-sticky shoes (Royal Robbins), that's where the rating comes from. First time I did it (1972), I was told it was a "tricky 5.6, just trust your feet and don't hug the rock". That's a pretty common occurence in high traffic areas. Look at all the holds in Eldo that are greasy with chalk, if you don't use chalk the rating feels like at least 1 or 2 numbers above the original.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Boot Hill (5.12b)
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: There's an amazing account of the FA of this thing over on Supertopo.com . The thread is called "Any Jimmy Dunn stories?" and the account is by Bob Palais, comment #61 on June 21. Pretty cryptic reason for the name of the climb.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Groove Rock aka Leap of Fai...
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: I remember the first time we top roped what you guys are calling "Dancin' Fool", with Scotty Gilbert, John Pearson, Tom Pulaski, me and Jon Ake. It was virgin, lichen covered territory. Between the lichen and the non sticky shoes, that thing was intimidating.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 12, 2010

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Comments: Here, here, Rees! Use the walk-off to do something productive, like "take the edge off" :-) Or, if you don't partake, hone your downclimbing skills on something like Solo.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Curecanti National Recreati... : Curecanti Needle
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 12, 2010

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Comments: Bob is living in Arvada and working for a geological consulting company, mostly working in Nevada. He is the geology guide for several raft trips this summer for Western State, I'm thinking on the Green River, it's offered on the school website.

When the subject of Bob comes up, I have too many stories to tell. He is a very colorful character!


Location: CO : Gunnison
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 12, 2010

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Comments: I'm really jealous, take a run up Dunn's and Left Hand for me.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 12, 2010

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Comments: I know Jimmy's lurking, he would know. Seems like there would have been ascents before Chuck reached the scene, Newberry, Dickerson? Phil, whaddya know?


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 12, 2010

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Comments: I wanta be there now! I'm going to grab this for my screen saver.


Location: YDPL8S : More climbing pics : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: Definitely a crowd with the munchies!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9) : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: I guess that would be the archetype of the "dream job"!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Pyramid Peak : Northeast Ridge (4th PG13) : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: Think very light thoughts!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9) : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: "Now Huntley, you gotta get with it, those springy things are pretty easy to use"

Great photo Allen, you hang out with some pretty big names, how much do you pay them? :-)


Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : Kill Hill Bouldering Area : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: We used to call that "broken beer bottle rock" for the obvious reasons of what was on top. The move off of the ground, that was a crimp that turned into a fingertip mantle was one of my favorite warm-up moves. Not hard, but most people didn't figure it out the first time.


Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: I was in a band back in the early 80's and we used to do some gigs up in the Evergreen area every now and then with a band called Foxton. I forget the lead player and singer's name, but he was from Foxton.


Location: CO : Golden : Ralston Buttes : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: When I was a kid growing up, my parents had good friends that lived in the valley behind (Blue Mountain Estates). We used to go up there and climb around, both in the valley and on the Buttes. Up near the left center of the picture (if you zoom in) there is an amazing rock feature. A smooth overhung roof that is probably 50 ft? in length.
In the early '70s, I saw a Canadian Lynx there (not a bobcat, I know the difference).

When I started climbing in 1972, I went up there with a few frien... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: YDPL8S When: May 17, 2010

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Comments: I once saw an old black and white fuzzy movie of John Rosholt (The Gambler - Gunnison, Red Rocks and Arizona hardman that is MIA) taking a whipper on this. John was in his early teens, it was one of his first leads, and one of his two partners was a young, teenage Dave Breashears. I wonder what ever happened to that piece of film?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Pass : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: Ahh, going to join the "brotherhood of the mesh". Mine works really well at predicting when a storm is coming in, and lets me know when I've been "high-stepping" too much.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: May 12, 2010

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Comments: Sure hope nobody was on Smear of Fear!


Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : Just some more desert adven... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: Looks like you two were born in the wrong century.

"Hey slim, would you go out to the storage cellar and grab some hardtack and jerky for dinner?"


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