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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Finger Crack (5.11a)
By: YDPL8S When: Sep 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw a video of Steph Davis "WALKING" this climb (maybe the small fingers help :-).
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Allen, this area has a great tradition of minimal rock defacement. Respect the area and the history.
Allen, what all did you "get on" your last trip there? Inquiring minds want to know :-)
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Location: Allen Hill : personal photos : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who is that Allen, like Trotsky or something?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : The Stash : Cool Hand Luce (V5 R)
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Welcome to Hartman's!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Vestal Peak : Wham Ridge (5.4 R)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt, that is the finest group of pictures of that area that I have ever seen. It took me right back there, my brain had started to lose the memory of the grandeur of that magical place.
An old climbing buddy of mine and Outward Bound instructor (mid to late '70s), John Lafferty, used to take groups of students up that thing in K-mart flip flops that he had altered into "climbing flops" by putting Vibram soles on the bottom and Astro Turf on the top!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: My eyes, my eyes, those pants! I think I'm having a flashback!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Back Jean!, living in Santa Monica with a bum shoulder. I go one-arm bouldering at Joshua Tree and Malibu Creek occasionally. Mostly play in the surf 4 blks from my apt., only a Gunny person gets my moniker :-)
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Jean, I knew which you were talking about. If Doug tries real hard and thinks back through the '70s haze, he'll remember me, Scott Mossman, hope he's doing well.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, there you go, I was just starting to feel good about myself. If you're talking about the right-facing dihedral furthest to the left, I guess now the only way I can justify that it felt like 5.9 is the big boots we were wearing :-)
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahhhh! The green belt is there. That makes more sense, always thought it looked too "wiry" for Rosholt.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs : North End Pillars (WI3-4) : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is the exact hammer and pick I used when I first went ice climbing......I know, kind of sad that that's what I noticed.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Groove Rock aka Leap of Fai... : Dancin' Fool (5.9+)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I noticed that Will gave it 5.7 rating. I have no idea where the bolts are now, but from John's photo, the area he is denoting as Dancin' Fool had at least 3 different toprope routes that we played around on. They probably ranged from 5.7 to 5.9, some on crystal strings and some on lichen filled smear cups.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Winter Dreams / Gene and Ge... (5.10c)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Slim, yeah he was always one of those quiet guys that didn't talk about it, but just did everything he did better than anybody else.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Winter Dreams / Gene and Ge... (5.10c)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slim, Craig Lightburn! there's a name from the past. He and I went to Golden High School together. I knew he was a climber but he was already pushing the hard stuff when I was leading 5.7s in the early to mid '70s. Do you have any idea of where he is nowadays?
Yeah George, it's quite possible they didn't make their FA known. I knew lots of guys from that time that put up FAs in the Platte and Clear Creek that climbed FAs for the thrill of the unknown and the challenge of route finding on an... more >>
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : Y-Crack (5.10d)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was with the late Scotty Gilbert (of Gunnison fame) and "Madman" Geoff Conley (of Red Rocks fame) when they did an ascent of this in 1976 or '77. I was supposed to join them on the climb but it was out of my league at the time (I don't think I really ever was in that league), and so I let them have at it :-), they were both very strong climbers. I remember Conley using tape on his hands, that was the first time I had ever seen that done, and of course it was all hexes and stoppers, I'm prett... more >>
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Location: Joe Ballent : Flaming Gorge Deep Water So... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Holy sh*&!!!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back in the '70s, before it got so polished and slick, you could walk right up it, even in non-sticky shoes (Royal Robbins), that's where the rating comes from. First time I did it (1972), I was told it was a "tricky 5.6, just trust your feet and don't hug the rock". That's a pretty common occurence in high traffic areas. Look at all the holds in Eldo that are greasy with chalk, if you don't use chalk the rating feels like at least 1 or 2 numbers above the original.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Boot Hill (5.12b)
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's an amazing account of the FA of this thing over on Supertopo.com . The thread is called "Any Jimmy Dunn stories?" and the account is by Bob Palais, comment #61 on June 21. Pretty cryptic reason for the name of the climb.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Groove Rock aka Leap of Fai...
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember the first time we top roped what you guys are calling "Dancin' Fool", with Scotty Gilbert, John Pearson, Tom Pulaski, me and Jon Ake. It was virgin, lichen covered territory. Between the lichen and the non sticky shoes, that thing was intimidating.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here, here, Rees! Use the walk-off to do something productive, like "take the edge off" :-) Or, if you don't partake, hone your downclimbing skills on something like Solo.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Curecanti National Recreati... : Curecanti Needle
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob is living in Arvada and working for a geological consulting company, mostly working in Nevada. He is the geology guide for several raft trips this summer for Western State, I'm thinking on the Green River, it's offered on the school website.
When the subject of Bob comes up, I have too many stories to tell. He is a very colorful character!
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Location: CO : Gunnison
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm really jealous, take a run up Dunn's and Left Hand for me.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know Jimmy's lurking, he would know. Seems like there would have been ascents before Chuck reached the scene, Newberry, Dickerson? Phil, whaddya know?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wanta be there now! I'm going to grab this for my screen saver.
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Location: YDPL8S : More climbing pics : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a crowd with the munchies!
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