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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : (Enter) Sandman (5.9)
By: YDPL8S When: Nov 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Choss, in my mind it wasn't a flame, I thoroughly enjoyed the pics. Now if they were of me, I would call foul. BTW I am from Cali now, but I cut my climbing teeth in good ole Gunnison, Co.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allen, I never saw this before, I guess I had stopped reading "Climbing" magazine by that time (wasn't what it used to be in the old days). Nice picture, nice memoriam.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : (Enter) Sandman (5.9)
By: YDPL8S When: Oct 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 9 pictures for 70 feet of climbing? That's more beta than you get for most boulder problems. If it wasn't for the fetching model in this beta/topo, I'd cry foul.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : Left Hand Mantel (5.8)
By: YDPL8S When: Oct 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun pitch to take a first timer up, pretty much a 1 move wonder.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Oct 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The mantel shelf is right above her head.
BTW - notice EBs and she's climbing with a bowline on a coil:-)
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Gate View Canyon
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't believe we never found this area, looks really nice! Is it a new find, are all of the routes there new?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That 1st pitch is one of those pitches where it's amazing that there are so many different ways to do it, when it feels like there is so little there to work with, when you get there. The key for me was "trust your feet", use opposition (psuedo stem), and don't hang around looking.
That picture of Mic soloing it makes me want to puke, some people just have skills that others don't.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4) : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this pic! I often use it as my desktop.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+) : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: What the ?????
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : North Face/Ridge : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Uhhhh...you rapped on the ascent and rope ascented on the descent?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Zoomed in, that's a great pic of Whiskey Crack, makes it look like a splitter...hahaha!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Hearts and Arrows (5.12b)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks badass! Great photos. Maybe need to rescan topo, when I zoomed in, I couldn't read a thing.
Edit: Thanks!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : One Hand Clapping (5.9)
By: YDPL8S When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was just reading a thread over on Supertopo that said the FA was Peter Haan - 1972.
edit: oops! I guess it was Peter Haan, but not THE Peter Haan of Yosemite fame, from the horses mouth.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Maroon Ridge (5.4) : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo really captures it, wish it was bigger.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, it beats that string of bolts to the right.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just looking at this photo, I can "not feel my hands".
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Gunnison Mountain Park Picn...
By: YDPL8S When: Jun 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Western State Geology department used to have picnics/keggers/parties there in the late '70s. I know the rocks you're talking about. I distinctly remember sitting around slamming beers, playing outdoor darts, and looking up and seeing John Rosholt, who wandered off after a few beers, free soloing, in his Addidas up there. Pictures would help, I wouldn't be at all surprised if he was soloing one of those 5.10 routes.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Brain Freeze (M5+ Steep Snow)
By: YDPL8S When: May 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 5 May 11 no ice on top pitch, lower pitches are still in.
A 10 hex on P5 was tipped out making the pull pretty exciting.
A tipped out #10 hex, now that's Old School! I Love it!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas
By: YDPL8S When: Apr 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Will, I don't think anyone I know would be insulted. We didn't really name most of the problems, just had our own names for the rocks.
I don't know about others, but I'm just interested to find out how hard (or easy) some of the stuff we were doing was. I'll say one thing, we used to highball some of the stuff that was 5.8 or less, but you guys are hanging it out on things that we used to toprope. Of course we didn't have pads back then, just spotters, and they were usually fairly "baked".
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Vestal Peak : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Apr 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's a unique view of Wham Ridge, great!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas
By: YDPL8S When: Apr 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, Pedropeacock!, although it's actually probably more than 4 decades. I was living out there every afternoon in 1972. By then, people had established tons of stuff already, long before I started applying flesh to that ragged, feel-so-good stone.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Apr 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wait a minute, is that my rack? :-) Seriously, ahhhh...the joy of passive pro.
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Location: CO : 2010 Colorado College Alpin...
By: YDPL8S When: Mar 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^^^^
Hey, let a man give props to his alma mater...although he knows well that the best came from Wasted State (WSC, or maybe that's the most entertaining!) :-)
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : North Bank
By: YDPL8S When: Mar 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pics, Jamie!, don't have one of Two Bolt do you?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Rock 'N Roll Wall : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Mar 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, it seems like you and Will and the guys are keeping the dream alive and gettin' after it. As I recall Rosholt put in 2 maybe 3 pieces, and there was some arm-barring, gastoning, and dynamic lunging involved.
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