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Descending the precipice trail at Acadia NP.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Dec 15, 2013
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Point Rank: # 1,828
Total Points: 315
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 155 | Routes 9 | Areas 3 | Photos 22 | Page Improvments | Comments 70 | Posts 22 | Stars 24 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: XOG When: Jun 22, 2003

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Comments: I was almost one of the accidents p1 is noted for in 1991 sometime. I'd never led anything harder than 5.6, and not very many of those, although I'd followed as hard as 11c, and a partner sandbagged me into leading it at the end of a winter day, 40 degrees with snow at the base (thanks, Steve). I had no idea what the climb was, but had the beginning leader's willingness to try. On the way up a local climbing ethics authority was heading down the trail with several pitons dangling from his harnes... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Star Trek (5.10a X)
By: XOG When: Jun 20, 2003

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Comments: Dear Anonymous Coward (since you think this climb is not even 'S' perhaps you might also be brave enough to not hide behind anonymity) - I was going by the (slightly lame, but it's the only one I've seen ) definition that 'S' means the leader would likely be hurt significantly in a fall and 'VS' means the leader would likely be killed in a fall. You could fall 80' straight onto the belay, which I'd call VS. I've never heard anything about a requirement that the difficulty on the runout needs t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face, North Side (5.3 R)
By: XOG When: May 26, 2003

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Comments: Just climbed this for the 2nd time today, here's a way to do it so that with a 60 meter rope you at least get decent belays. On the 1st pitch run almost to the end of the 60 m , drop into the chimney slot and belay on a really nice level spot down in the chimney. This is also nice and cool on a hot day. There's a nice easy vertical diagonal traverse out of the chimney on huecos, or else just step out on the face just below the belay. The key is making the 2nd pitch short. Just climb 50 or 60 fee... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : Crack Tack (5.10a R)
By: XOG When: May 24, 2003

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Comments: This was my first (or maybe 2nd) 5.9 lead. I remember placing a brass nut in a small crack on the left side of a flake right at the top which, if it pulled, would have meant a ground fall. In fact, it did pull, but I did not hit the ground! As I moved left, the nut popped out, leaving me with essentially no pro. Fortunately the climbing must have been only 5.2 ish or so, but I still think it deserves the s rating. Not sure about vs - although it was vs the way I did it, I was also a very inexpe... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Whiplash (5.10b)
By: XOG When: May 3, 2003

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Comments: Climbed this today. My partner Shigemichi was leading, and just before the crux after setting pro he grabbed the last big jug with both hands, I guess to rest. Anyway, it came off, I'd guess about a 25 pound football and he fell backwards and upside down, coming to a halt with his head 2-3 feet from a fin of rock. I yelled rock loudly. Fortunately the only people in the area were a party on Xanadu, which was enough to the right that they heard the rock but that was it. Even though we were there ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock : East Face South Side/Hillbi... (5.1 R)
By: XOG When: May 1, 2003

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Comments: This was the very first Flatiron climb I came to in Boulder for a solo scramble back around 1990 or so. I picked it because Roach's guidebook said it was a perfect beginner's route, lower angle than usual with good pro (for some reason although I was planning to scramble that made me feel better).

I backed off it then, thinking I had a long ways to go as a climber, came back a few times over the years and kept backing off because I didn't feel comfortable with it, and only recently finally went... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Circadian Rhythms (5.9+)
By: XOG When: May 1, 2003

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Comments: There is about 40' of easy (5.0) traversing without tons of pro to get over to the Tongo anchors once done with the crux, so make sure the 2nd is down with that. Also as a leader you can't see the anchors until you are right at them, or from the ground, so check the topo showing where the anchors are carefully. I thought it was a fun route, solid rock and unusual climbing!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : The Mushroom (5.8)
By: XOG When: Apr 10, 2003

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Comments: Check out the large block which looks to be precariously balanced more or less directly above and slightly to the left of this route and then think twice about doing it on a windy day!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: XOG When: Apr 10, 2003

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Comments: There's an easier variation to the second pitch. Instead of going right and pulling the 5.8+ roof with tricky protection, you can go left from the hanging belay and wander up mostly 5.7 terrain with reasonable protection (a bit run-out but regularly spaced pro) and solid lichen-covered rock. I've done it both ways and actually find the left variation just as enjoyable because of the route-finding and the consistent difficulty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Evangeline (5.11b A1)
By: XOG When: Mar 3, 2003

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Comments: I followed the upper 10 b/c in the early 90s and thought it was considerably harder than the 11 b/c first pitch. I remember hard moves off the belay, and an upper crux past fixed bashies in a smooth dihedral / groove sort of thing, which more or less sounds like what some other people are saying.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: XOG When: Mar 3, 2003

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Comments: Another stupid near-death story - Once upon a time I climbed this with 2 others. Pretty high up on the route (I don't remember exactly where, but it's the last belay from decent sized ledges), I was in 3rd position and it being a hot summer day and a long wait, I fell asleep on the ledge. In the meantime, the 2nd person (that was not terribly experienced) took off on follow. I woke up, stretched, and realized that I was no longer clipped into the belay and was attached to the rock only by the ro... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : South Sneak (5.2)
By: XOG When: Feb 16, 2003

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Comments: I decided not to do onsight flatiron solos after doing this climb - I got up in the smooth polished section and thought I would have given this climb F5 instead of F3 because of the polished nature of the rock. Usually Roach's ratings are right on, but not always!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: XOG When: Feb 7, 2003

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Comments: AC - It's a pretty old TR (1994 or something like that) and I should have put a date on it. I don't think I started seeing Naked Edge raptor closures until sometime around 1999 - 2000?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: XOG When: Feb 6, 2003

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Comments: Guess I have to add my Naked Edge TR since Bill put his in:)

Here's the report (from around 1994). Sorry for the length of the comment, but I don't have anywhere else to put it, and it might as well be somewhere.

Following is a trip report - The Naked Edge, July 4, circa 1994. Skip if bored!!!

Fellow netter Jon and I had gone up to the Crags in Estes Park on Saturday, July 2nd and had a great time, so we decided to try climbing together a second time on the 4th. Jon's recently arrived in Colo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Street Hassle (5.12c)
By: XOG When: Feb 1, 2003

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Comments: Actually managed to top-rope this today - leading's next (with a crash pad for the start I think it's comparable to a lot of local boulders as far as the 1st bolt goes). Different beta for the crux sequence - get on the obvious first set of decent crimps, stem out right (and a little high at this point) to a decent notch with the right foot, work the left foot up on smears until you can reach a tiny bad crimp for the right hand, then (this is the crux) move the left foot up to a smear pocket an... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face, North Side (5.3 R)
By: XOG When: Apr 18, 2002

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Comments: I'd agree about the protection, especially some of the belays are very poor. We ran out a 50 meter rope on the 3rd and 4th pitches and were nowhere near a decent belay both times. After the 4th pitch, just before crossing up and right to the summit ridge, the belay was just a couple of marginal tri-cams stuffed into the same pocket. Add to this the fact that it was sometimes necessary to climb 40' from these belays before placing the first piece of protection off the belay, and really this route... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Orange Julius (5.10a R)
By: XOG When: Feb 25, 2002

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Comments: The normal way to do the hand traverse is rtl, but there is a nice variation to this route that brings you up to where you can do it ltr, and skip the runout 5.8 traverse. Instead of doing the traverse, move almost straight up and slightly left in discontinuous cracks (I'm guessing 5.9) and then up a nice 5.8 crack until you get to the hand traverse. I've done this route once each way, and I actually think the variation is neater!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : The Guillotine (5.10c)
By: XOG When: Feb 25, 2002

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Comments: A cautionary tale .. A couple of years ago I climbed this route. Our party of 3 had just been through the 5.7 guillotine pitch, with 2 of us sitting on the ledges just above the exit from the chimneys, belaying the 3rd, who was leading the next pitch above. Suddenly there was a large natural release of rocks from the chimneys we had just climbed through (it is logical that we somehow loosened the rocks while we were climbing through, but none of us had noticed anything unusual). Fortunately it d... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : The Gutter (V?)
By: XOG When: Jan 11, 2002

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Comments: This is one of my favorite traverses but I think it's really overrated difficulty-wise. The most natural way to do it for me starts on the lip, moves down below the lip to a flake, rest after the flake, go almost straight up to a jug high on the lip, rest, move down off the lip to a hole and left on some slopers, then almost straight up again to another rest on big holds up high, then the crux section moving down off the lip again on crimps so low that it's difficult to keep off the slab below, ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Bongo Boulder
By: XOG When: Jan 11, 2002

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Comments: This is a really cool rock. Still working on the crux....


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