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Descending the precipice trail at Acadia NP.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Dec 15, 2013
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Point Rank: # 1,824
Total Points: 315
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 155 | Routes 9 | Areas 3 | Photos 22 | Page Improvments | Comments 70 | Posts 22 | Stars 24 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : ... : Photo
By: XOG When: Feb 24, 2006

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Comments: Is it just my computer screen or is the upper person in this photo waaaay to the left of a clip on some kind of wacked out toprope?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Mohling Arete (5.5 R)
By: XOG When: Nov 21, 2005

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Comments: On the FA attribution - Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it was named in honor of Franz Mohling after he died in a mountainerring accident, but he was not the first ascentionist (if, as with many of the Flatirons routes, there actually was a first ascentionist in any meaningful sense of the word).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Satan's Slab (5.8 R)
By: XOG When: Nov 14, 2005

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Comments: I agree with the comment by Shad; the trickiest move is 10' after you pull around the roof, and the pro is lacking at that point. I remember that either a pink or red tri-cam came in handy there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Thumb : Green Crack (5.8+)
By: XOG When: Oct 17, 2005

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Comments: I'm going to give this route 2 1/2 stars even though it is short. I also found it more difficult than the neighboring harder-rated climbs Diagonal Finger Crack and Green Corner - both of which are also excellent routes. All in all G. Thumb is an excellent spot to climb, well worth the hike in.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse
By: XOG When: Aug 31, 2005

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Comments: Likewise, thanks Matt.

Of course it's all guessing, but I'd be more inclined to attribute this to the late night partiers that have been leaving trash and breaking beer bottles against rocks at Flagstaff for as long as I've been climbing up there, than to a frat prank.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Empire of the Fenceless (5.12a)
By: XOG When: Aug 29, 2005

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Comments: The glue doesn't bother me; the block in question is big enough that it would be quite a project to safely get it to the ground without going to the road and I also believe that the presence of the block makes the climb better.

Something that bothers me more, recently a fist-size pink splotch of paint appeared just below the crux that has been identified as resulting from a paintball, how totally lame.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Forbidden Planet (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Aug 22, 2005

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Comments: When I did it you still needed some gear for the last part of the pitch on the arete above the crux - i.e. it's a mixed route, not a pure sport climb.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Devil's Thumb : Devil's Spiral (5.4)
By: XOG When: Aug 19, 2005

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Comments: I did this as a solo 10 or so years ago and was so "stimulated" by the exposed traverse onto the S. face that once on the summit, I could not enjoy my time up there because all I could think about was that I was going to have to reverse what I'd just climbed... It definitely deserves stars, not so much for the climbing, but for the location...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Stettner's Ledges (5.8)
By: XOG When: Aug 1, 2005

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Comments: ac (from previous comment): I had the exact same experience re: rockfall from Broadway on Stettner's over 10 years ago. It made the climb very scary, with rocks singing by us the whole way...


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Redneck Hero (5.12a)
By: XOG When: Jul 25, 2005

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Comments: Excellent route. Agree with the comment about "for people struggling with 12a, it's a little runout". Probably none of the moves on it are 12a but endurance is a huge factor. The main runout for me is above bolt 5, although as Ted says the red alien does take the edge off of clipping bolt [5]. Seems like if you blow clipping bolt 6, you could fall 25' (I fell 20' from a little below the clipping hold), but as people note it's as clean as falls get and the bolts are where they should be. A couple... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Introducing Meteor Dad (5.10d)
By: XOG When: Jul 25, 2005

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Comments: I think it's the 3rd clip that is the main one not to blow (although it wouldn't be good to miss the 2nd either). There is a committing move to get to the clipping stance for bolt 3, but the stance itself has good feet, so just making the move is the main thing. Very cool crux move (think mantle) and the easier upper section is pure fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Jul 5, 2005

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Comments: Cleaning Recommendation: Set a belay on the E. Face just over the lip and belay the 2nd up to clean, i.e. multi-pitch style. Don't try to lower off to clean, this climb is so steep that it is hard to do. We tried to do this and it turned into a bit of a fiasco. If you want to work the route you can lower off a piece in the exit dihedral, pull the rope, and re-lead, and then for the final burn have the leader go up to belay the second / cleaner from the E. Face belay mentioned above. Also, the u... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Center Route (5.11a/b)
By: XOG When: Feb 23, 2005

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Comments: Took a 15 footer on this back in the mid 90's. Breathing a sigh of relief at my clean fall, I looked up and saw spaghetti rope above me. Moving at my second fastest speed ever (the fastest being falling into 34 degree water while windsurfing), I clipped a nearby pin relic at the speed of light. The rope was my (new) partner's - she told me she'd stored it in a car in Alaska for 1 year and a half. Nice.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Drugs (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Feb 15, 2005

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Comments: Rob:

I didn't replace the bolts - just provided a belay for part of the day. The ASCA kindly donated the hardware; I suggest you contact one of to get the information you are looking for.

www.aceeldo.org/~aceeldoo/fhrc/

www.safeclimbing.org/

- Greg


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Street Hassle (5.12c)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best po... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Knot Carrot (5.11a)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best po... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Touch Monkey (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best po... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Touch Monkey (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: As of Feb. 13th Touch Monkey has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Knot Carrot (5.11a)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: As of Feb. 13th, Knot Carrot has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Drugs (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: As of Feb. 13th Drugs has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: XOG When: Feb 7, 2005

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Comments: Tom:

Ya know, I heard something about that :) Didn't Kor also climb it facing out into the canyon so he could extend the use of his shoes by wearing out the heel rubber? In addition, that made sure that the right (I mean left of course) side of his body would get the tan, and also slowed him down from his notoriously fast pace just enough for the tan to take place at all? I think it's in one of the lost appendices to Climb Colorado...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Take the Termites Bowling (5.11c)
By: XOG When: Jan 25, 2005

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Comments: Although this route isn't great to look at, it's interesting and surprisingly good. Personally I feel that the crux comes low moving past the 2nd bolt, although the upper move is also challenging.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: XOG When: Jan 25, 2005

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Comments: I'd just like to point out, that at 7 a.m. on a mid-summer's day, the outline of the shadow of the Wind Ridge on the Redgarden wall nearly exactly outlines the line the Bulge takes. How weird is that?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : The Compound (V7)
By: XOG When: Oct 26, 2004

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Comments: Be careful of some loose holds and/or crisp flakes that could break. I've found that wherever these exist, there are alternative ways to do the move, but some things that look solid are actually not that solid. The last section of this is brilliant, including the high lip traversing moves after grovelling up the mossy dirty gutter for 10' following the crux. Apart from the 10' grovel, this thing is stellar!

A good combo is: Freeway (5.0) to top of Compound -_ leave shoes, go back down to the ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Golden Eagle (5.11d)
By: XOG When: Oct 19, 2004

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Comments: There is a dorm-fridge size semi-detached block just below the anchors, and in fact the most natural hold to use to clip the anchors is the jug formed by the top of this block. If you are climbing this route, especially after rain, please exercise caution. The reason I believe the block to be suspect is that I was up there on a wet day (and in fact broke a mango-size hold off lower on the route both to my and my belayer's surprise), and noticed that water seeps behind the entire block and come... more >>


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