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Member Since: Jul 19, 2011
Last Visit: 8 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 4,675
Total Points: 84
Last Year: 39
Last 30 Days: 20
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Wylie been climbing?










Contributions


All 172 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 43 | Stars 51 | Ratings 31
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Wylie When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: Do yourself a favor, link 3 + 4 and don't clip the unnecessary bolt high on P4 for one hell of a pitch!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Moroni : Voice from the Dust (5.11b/c)
By: Wylie When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 6 was my favorite! Long, varied, interesting, and mostly good rock until the final rancid ledge traverse. Pitch 4 face climbing is well bolted 10+ if you use the best holds. The hardest part is figuring out what to grab as there is a plethora of options and it climbs a bit zig zaggy.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11 PG13)
By: Wylie When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Great climb. I even liked the sandy choss filth up high and the sweet summit! First 3 pitches are 5 star. Leave the #5 and #6 at the anchor on top of the 2nd pitch. The 3rd pitch OW protects with smaller stuff. Not trying to be a sandbagger douche but I wouldn't give any of the OW more than 5.10. 10+ for entering the corner on pitch 1 and some of the off fingery sections. Some of the anchor bolts are bomber and some are less than inspiring.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon : Higher Solitude Canyon
By: Wylie When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: Although there aren't many lines up here the good ones are incredible. Perfect beautiful stone, long routes, and great movement. I can't wait to go back.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Oaklands
By: Wylie When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: Approach beta: at the junction of Oldham Trail with the fencing and wormhole make sure to GO RIGHT on Oldham, not left. This area has great stone and interesting lines. If you like thin techy crimping and friction climbing you'll love it here.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : The One Wall
By: Wylie When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: What aspect is this wall?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Death and Taxes (5.11+)
By: Wylie When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: I'll 2nd that doubles are fine, unless you want to sew up the easy slaby climbing down low.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Fool's Progress (5.11-)
By: Wylie When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: A pretty nice warm up when it's cold out. The stem box catches a lot of sun in the morning. Not very sustained, but fun movement in the box up high.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Jews On Crack (5.11)
By: Wylie When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Oh man, this route is fun, until the mega poop roof. It was full of sand and a huge swath of crap layered very thick. Slick and poopy situation indeed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Wylie When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: No bolt for the R start, then 2 fat shiny bolts next to a splitter that protects perfectly. Strange. I figure the 5th P bolts were put in because no cams were that big back in the day so they were the only pro for the pitch, which would be bold. Kind of a bummer to see new ones there now though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Jupiter II (5.11c)
By: Wylie When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Maybe I missed something, but the P2 crux feels like a serious sandbag. Powerful, techy, and reachy as hell (for a 5'8" person). P3 is PG13, as long as the scrappy ornamental gear holds. Some of the best rock I've seen in RR for sure.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : T-Bones Tonight (5.12-)
By: Wylie When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: A fun route no doubt. No way this is 12-. It's like an easier version of King Cat. If king Cat is 11+ then this is 11.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Puma (5.12-)
By: Wylie When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: I remember the rock at the crux being on the soft side. I figured that originally the crack was super thin and over time has been buffed away to provide pretty good thin locks. That would explain the grade changing, but who knows.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : Slim Shady (5.10)
By: Wylie When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: It's nice to have some RP's for the last 10 feet.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Traveler Buttress (5.9)
By: Wylie When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Beware! My buddy and I were attacked by a Peregrine Falcon while climbing Traveler's Buttress 2 days ago. It started when I turned the corner of the 5.8 arete pitch and continued until we were near the top. The route isn't listed anywhere as part of the spring closure. The bird was very pissed and extremely aggressive bombing in at our heads with it's talons out. It was not a fun experience. You could climb up to the top of the OW crux pitch and rap off the bolts no problem, but I would avoid th... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap
By: Wylie When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Beware! My buddy and I were attacked by a Peregrine Falcon while climbing Traveler's Buttress 2 days ago. It started when I turned the corner of the 5.8 arete pitch and continued until we were near the top. The route isn't listed anywhere as part of the spring closure. The bird was very pissed and extremely aggressive bombing in at our heads with it's talons out. It was not a fun experience. You could climb up to the top of the OW crux pitch and rap off the bolts no problem, but I would av... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Gingivitis (5.10)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Worst climb! Come on, it's a great warm up and catches the sun early for those cold days. A little loose rock and weird thuggery makes the clean splitters that much better.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Tube Steaks Tomorrow (5.10+)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: One of my favorite 10's at the creek. How often do you get to climb purple and green camalot cracks at this grade? Maybe my memory is faulty, but aren't there a couple of sections of .5 BD on this one?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Ninja Bedwetter (5.11+)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: This is hands down one of my favorite climbs at the creek. Long, varied, and interesting. That changing corners steep bit is tough! I'm pretty sure red camalots are over stuffed there, greens do better. Save a couple of blue metolious for the top.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Low Cholesterol (5.10)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: I'd say this is the best intro to IC wide climbing I've done. It was my first sandstone OW and I loved it so much I left blood from my ankles as thanks! I distinctly remember using (New BD) #5 for the start, #6 for the middle, and a #5 for the finish. A #6 gets jammed on the last 1/4 or so.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : A Tale of Two Sheep (5.11b)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Pretty sweet route once you clean it out. The splitter BD .4 fingers turn to blue metolious size higher up. When I climbed it every part of the crack was thickly coated with red baby powder dust. Seems like any climb that doesn't get a lot of traffic gets that way after awhile. The powder made for sliding finger locks and a head trip about gear! Still, an awesome, quiet climb free from the horde that is usually at the main part of this wall.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Mental Block (5.10c)
By: Wylie When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: That shiny new bolt on p2 is strangely placed just below where the gear gets good. Wonder why it's not 5 ft. lower where the gear is behind a shite flake that probably won't hold. Oh well, who knows. 3 new #5's would be nice, but who wants to carry that? Good fun!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Hari-Kiri (5.10a)
By: Wylie When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: Any word on the yellow jacket nest 2/3 of the way up on Hari Kari? Beware, I got stung about 50 times this past fall. If you are allergic I'd stay the hell away.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area
By: Wylie When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: Any word on the yellow jacket nest 2/3 of the way up on Hari Kari? Beware, I got stung about 50 times this past fall. If you are allergic I'd stay the hell away.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area
By: Wylie When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Do Not Climb Hari Kari!!! 2 weeks ago I discovered a yellow jacket nest about 2/3's up the route. I got swarmed and stung 50+ times. It was less than ideal.


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