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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Traveler Buttress (5.9)
By: Wylie When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware! My buddy and I were attacked by a Peregrine Falcon while climbing Traveler's Buttress 2 days ago. It started when I turned the corner of the 5.8 arete pitch and continued until we were near the top. The route isn't listed anywhere as part of the spring closure. The bird was very pissed and extremely aggressive bombing in at our heads with it's talons out. It was not a fun experience. You could climb up to the top of the OW crux pitch and rap off the bolts no problem, but I would avoid th... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap
By: Wylie When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware! My buddy and I were attacked by a Peregrine Falcon while climbing Traveler's Buttress 2 days ago. It started when I turned the corner of the 5.8 arete pitch and continued until we were near the top. The route isn't listed anywhere as part of the spring closure. The bird was very pissed and extremely aggressive bombing in at our heads with it's talons out. It was not a fun experience. You could climb up to the top of the OW crux pitch and rap off the bolts no problem, but I would av... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Fuel Injected Hardbody (5.12- PG13)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not PG-13, totally safe. Weird to see a bolt on a splitter.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Gingivitis (5.10)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worst climb! Come on, it's a great warm up and catches the sun early for those cold days. A little loose rock and weird thuggery makes the clean splitters that much better.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Camping Under the Influence (5.12-)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is awesome, but the randomness of the anchor placement detracts from the climb for me. Climbs that have the hardest move clipping the anchor just because the bolts are placed there seems contrived.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Tube Steaks Tomorrow (5.10+)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite 10's at the creek. How often do you get to climb purple and green camalot cracks at this grade? Maybe my memory is faulty, but aren't there a couple of sections of .5 BD on this one?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Ninja Bedwetter (5.11+)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is hands down one of my favorite climbs at the creek. Long, varied, and interesting. That changing corners steep bit is tough! I'm pretty sure red camalots are over stuffed there, greens do better. Save a couple of blue metolious for the top or you may regret it!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Low Cholesterol (5.10)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd say this is the best intro to IC wide climbing I've done. It was my first sandstone OW and I loved it so much I left blood from my ankles as thanks! I distinctly remember using (New BD) #5 for the start, #6 for the middle, and a #5 for the finish. A #6 gets jammed on the last 1/4 or so.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : A Tale of Two Sheep (5.11b)
By: Wylie When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sweet route once you clean it out. The splitter BD .4 fingers turn to blue metolious size higher up. When I climbed it every part of the crack was thickly coated with red baby powder dust. Seems like any climb that doesn't get a lot of traffic gets that way after awhile. The powder made for sliding finger locks and a head trip about gear! Still, an awesome, quiet climb free from the horde that is usually at the main part of this wall.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Mental Block (5.10c)
By: Wylie When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That shiny new bolt on p2 is strangely placed just below where the gear gets good. Wonder why it's not 5 ft. lower where the gear is behind a shite flake that probably won't hold. Oh well, who knows. 3 new #5's would be nice, but who wants to carry that? Good fun!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Hari-Kiri (5.10a)
By: Wylie When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any word on the yellow jacket nest 2/3 of the way up on Hari Kari? Beware, I got stung about 50 times this past fall. If you are allergic I'd stay the hell away.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area
By: Wylie When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any word on the yellow jacket nest 2/3 of the way up on Hari Kari? Beware, I got stung about 50 times this past fall. If you are allergic I'd stay the hell away.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area
By: Wylie When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do Not Climb Hari Kari!!! 2 weeks ago I discovered a yellow jacket nest about 2/3's up the route. I got swarmed and stung 50+ times. It was less than ideal.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Hari-Kiri (5.10a)
By: Wylie When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware this route!!! Climbed it about 2 weeks ago and discovered a yellow jacket nest about 2/3 of the way up. Got swarmed and stung 50+ times. It was less than ideal.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Airy Interlude (5.10b)
By: Wylie When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best way to do this is 1st pitch of Igor, 2nd Airy, then finish on the shared 3rd pitch.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Spooky (5.9)
By: Wylie When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best 5.9's I've done! You get a little of everything on it.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: Wylie When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Description for gear seems off for pitches 3 + 4. P3 has the tricky gear for the crux section. P4 has really good pro.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Wylie When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Left spring flowing on 8/25/12.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell : Bloody Corner (5.10)
By: Wylie When: Jul 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Combine pitches 2 + 3 into one long pitch with marginal rock at times and fun climbing. The corner is like a finger version of Mithral and it's amazing! I'm surprised this climb doesn't get done much as I found it to be just as good as Mihtral at a harder grade. Good fun!
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Bear Creek Spire : North Arete (5.8)
By: Wylie When: Jul 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. Not sustained. Seemed soft for 5.8. I found pitch 6 to be fine with a pack on. It's great chimneying with perfect jams. What more could you want? Not sure why the common way is to bail off the ridge early. Just stick to it for mostly 4th/easy 5th on good rock. I found maybe 2 15ft 5.8 sections and it climbs directly to the summit. Seems like the obvious choice for the line!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Blindspot (5.11b)
By: Wylie When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitches 2,4, and 6 are great! 5.8 OW is short and quick. Cowabunga.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Old and the Bold (5.10c)
By: Wylie When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I loved the first pitch and found the rock to be not so bad. It goes on forever!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : No Country For Old Men (5.10c)
By: Wylie When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite routes on the Eastside! The pitches are varied and some of them are wild and unique. More interesting and fun than Ghostrider. Still cleaning up a bit but mostly clean. I don't remember the 5.7 pitch being R/X. A little loose but fine.
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