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Big Bend (South faces in Aug Bad Idea)


Member Since: Apr 2, 2005
Last Visit: Sep 10, 2014
Contact Wyatt Payne


Point Rank: # 1,200
Total Points: 519
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
14 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Wyatt Payne been climbing?










Contributions


All 299 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 98 | Page Improvements | Comments 19 | Posts 20 | Stars 154 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : A Modern Day Interpretation... (5.10+)
By: Wyatt Payne When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: The #5 is very optional, and depending on your comfort level in short sections of steep, #4 fists that cam could be easily left on the ground as well. If you are a bit apprehensive, bring the #4. There are plenty of places to put it, but really it only came out once and that climbing could have been sufficiently protected nearby with a different size. There is no need to climb any choss unless you want to or feel it is necessary. Kristi and I linked every pitch with the exce... more >>


Location: CO : New Women's Speed Record on...
By: Wyatt Payne When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: OUTSTANDING work!!! Way to go.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Glenwood Falls - Left / Rig... (WI4-5) : Photo
By: Wyatt Payne When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: Damn sun showed up and left me searching for any shade to put my tools and screws in on the last pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Nuns : Where have the Wild Things ... (5.11)
By: Wyatt Payne When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: Starts getting sun at top of 1st pitch ~11:30. First pitch feels tough for the grade. Highly asthetic line.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Glenwood Falls - Left / Rig... (WI4-5) : Comment : Photo
By: Wyatt Payne When: Feb 7, 2011

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Comments: He's got jokes!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Glenwood Falls - Left / Rig... (WI4-5) : Photo
By: Wyatt Payne When: Feb 7, 2011

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Comments: This was just a ledge fall waiting to happen. Ice was totally detached from warm days prior, and the ice in contact with rock was too thin to be much help. Two screws in the hollow shield might have held body weight, and one trust worthy pick in the runnel.

Only a man whose ass is narrow and has little or no self respect may pass in these conditions.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : US Highway 550 : Blue Condition (WI5) : Photo
By: Wyatt Payne When: Jan 19, 2011

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Comments: Nice pic! Is that a mud flap girl on the back of that brain bucket? Guess it is true BADWO.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Astro Elephant (5.10-)
By: Wyatt Payne When: Dec 16, 2009

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Comments: In 2008 Stu Ritchie and I got lost before we even started climbing
Astro Elephant. Everything looked as expected through the first pitch. As I lead out on the second after turning a corner and expecting to find a RF dihedral I was facing what looked more like a shallow right facing bomb bay that went up to a long horizontal roof. Very long story short we knew that we screwed the pooch badly. To remedy that situation I lead straight out Right below the roof. During that process I clipped a... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11a) : Photo
By: Wyatt Payne When: Dec 16, 2009

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Comments: Nice Pic Stu!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Russian Arete (5.9+) : Photo
By: Wyatt Payne When: Aug 21, 2009

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Comments: What can I say the girlfriend, and family are shooting for an open casket.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : Photo
By: Wyatt Payne When: Jan 22, 2008

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Comments: Did you do a head stand on Ancient Art? I know a picture of someone doing that must exist somewhere, maybe it is of you. Rock on!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: Wyatt Payne When: Sep 9, 2007

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Comments: Amen Stocker I agree it is only 11d if you don't send it. A nice comfy rest when you take does help out the pump significantly. Better bring two tickets to the Gun Show to send, the feet are nonexistent through the crux. I'm renaming this route in fine Mountain Project fashion. I dub thee, "The Mother @#?!&!". So sick it makes my palms sweat thinking about it. Don't bother getting on it, it's over rated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Gill Crack (5.12a)
By: Wyatt Payne When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: Brute force sure doesn't hurt if you are not tall. I had to show up ready for a fight to make the redpoint. Watch how that yellow TCU gets placed, it is bomber in one orientation, and can rip in another, so pay attention to it if you don't have a great belayer. Great send, tape is your friend.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Wyatt Payne When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: Link P1 and P2. You can use a cordalette to clip the anchors above the pillar just like it was a long draw. This allows the leader to fall straight down on the nuts if they slime off, and if they do fail you won't take the full ride b/c you will hit the bolts. when I lead it I didn't have anything long enough to pull off this trick. So I had my belayer up on the pillar. That situation would have pulled the nuts around the corner hard to the right if I lost it. Not confidence inspiring. In ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Wide Country (5.11a R)
By: Wyatt Payne When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: Sick Onsight, if you are reading this page to gather beta before you climb it you are missing out on a great gut check. Stop reading now while you still can! Even with beta I think it's a stout lead, it seemed more scary than XM. Bring lots of runners and balls. Don't fall it looks like it hurts more than your ego.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Splitting the Stone (5.11c)
By: Wyatt Payne When: Nov 11, 2005

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Comments: I'll answer my own question. The route to the immediate left of Splitting the Stone is Ewetopia and it is a 12a according to the new guide. [Definitely], worth doing. It is a taste of almost every type of [climbing] you can do at Shelf in one climb. I'm not sure about the spelling of the route name, but you get the point.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: Wyatt Payne When: Sep 18, 2005

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Comments: This is one of my favorite routes in the canyon. Definitely a good one to repeat. I jumped on it today and noticed that the crux is easier. A sloping side pull has mysteriously become quite positive. I'm afraid someone has chipped it, and want to know if anyone else has noticed this. I was definitely bummed. I'd like to think climbers are more respectful. Let me know what's up.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Splitting the Stone (5.11c)
By: Wyatt Payne When: Apr 2, 2005

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Comments: I just wanted to know if someone could tell me the name and rating of the route immediately to the left of Splitting The Stone? Unless I really did put crack in my cereal this morning it sure doesn't fit the discription of Jewel of The Wild. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

P.S. Micah Stocker is a big pussywussy!


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Top falls off The Cobra in the Fisher TowersSouthern Utah DesertsWyatt PayneAug 13, 2014
re: Top falls off The Cobra in the Fisher TowersSouthern Utah DesertsWyatt PayneAug 1, 2014
re: SEEKING MOUNTAIN MAN!!!!!General ClimbingWyatt PayneMar 6, 2014
re: SEEKING MOUNTAIN MAN!!!!!General ClimbingWyatt PayneMar 6, 2014
re: SEEKING MOUNTAIN MAN!!!!!General ClimbingWyatt PayneFeb 12, 2014
re: ACE: Eldo fixed hardware application voteColoradoWyatt PayneJan 4, 2014
re: Hang Dogging and DowngradingGeneral ClimbingWyatt PayneNov 1, 2013
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