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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Sleepy Hollow (5.8)
By: worth russell When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route with a killer top out. Havent done the 5.9 variation but the 8 finish is a blast. Good work cr ane mtn crew
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Four Ounces to Freedom (5.12d)
By: worth russell When: Feb 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got some crane projects I wanna send this year. I belay you and vice versa
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Cascade Lakes Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : The El (5.8)
By: worth russell When: Dec 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah I hand traversed right past that old op link cam. Its pumpy as all hell. I didnt think to use that rail as a foot traverse. Ill go back and try it this way in the spring
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Four Ounces to Freedom (5.12d)
By: worth russell When: Nov 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone sent thos since mike's fa?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : TeePee Wall : A Peney for your freedom (5.8+) : Photo
By: worth russell When: May 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Todd nice shot although i would be a litle more nervous considering where your belayer is standing
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+) : Photo
By: worth russell When: Jan 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tristan!!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Son of Easy O (5.8)
By: worth russell When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can someone point me in the direction of a better 5.8. God I love this climb just amazing
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Strictly From Nowhere (5.7)
By: worth russell When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: With the Oscar variation this is the best 5.7 in the gunks.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Glypnod (5.8)
By: worth russell When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, I found this climb to be dirty, grassy and not much fun. It seems like the climb is always wet and dank. If you are into adventure routes or atypical gunks routes this may be for you. To me it felt like an adirondack adventure.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Pas de Deux (5.8)
By: worth russell When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this climb fun but definitely somewhere between PG and dangerous. It seemed runout above the crux but the crux is well protected.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.8)
By: worth russell When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: freaky/dangerous crux move. gear is gtreat but if your belayer isnt spot on youre gonna deck
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: worth russell When: Nov 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I couldn't disagree more with you Dolgio. I've lead most all 2 and three star 5.8's in the gunks and this is by no means anywhere near an easy 5.8. Arrow, snookies, morning after, wonderland absurdland drunkards. The list goes on and on. There are actually only a couple 5.8's that i would say are tougher than this climb. This is a serious climb with some runout. If you aren't solid in 5.8 stick to arrow and Easy o and the plethora of easier, less sustained 5.8s.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: worth russell When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun climbing with a tough start.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Cakewalk (5.7)
By: worth russell When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's an okay climb if you're in the area. Seems to stay wet long after surrounding climbs have dried. Runout on the face climbing. small master cams are helpful.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Double Crack (5.8)
By: worth russell When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome, awesome climb! I would say large cams are unnecessary. I used one #3 and that was it. Nuts are great on the first half of the climb. Very pumpy, very sustained. Harder than alot of 5.9s in the surrounding area. G all the way. Utilize the rests. The crux for me was the O.W. section but that may have more to do with my lacking skill set
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Frosted Mug (5.9)
By: worth russell When: Aug 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just fantastic climbing. I found the slot for the #6 stopper but i would hardly call it bomber. At best i would call it mental gear that might slow your descent if you're lucky. The 5.7 r move is more in the 5.5-5.6 realm and once you pass it the climbing is pure deliciouness. Gear doubles in the bd .4-1 range with A gold for the horizopntal at the top and if you want a 4 for the offwidth section mid crack. Don't be scared just do it. bd 4 not necessary.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Barkeater Cliff : Eat Yourself a Pie (5.8)
By: worth russell When: Aug 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: this climb is 5.8 freaky. Not very fun on lead
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Cascade Lakes Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : The El (5.8)
By: worth russell When: Jul 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fact of the matter is the 5.7 traverse is tougher than the p3 crack. The traverse is bomber hands with little to no feet I don't know who rated this climb, but don't get freaked that this is a sandbag special. 3rd pitch is a cakewalk compared to the traverse. Gear is awesome top to bottom.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Cascade Lakes Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Pete's Farewell (5.7)
By: worth russell When: Jul 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome climb. My favorite adirondack route this far. Stay low on the traverse, it's easier. Gaining the crack is a cool stem move. Other than that it's an exciting breeze. A truly G climb, imagine that.
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