Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Sep 8, 2007
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Jeffrey Dunn


Point Rank: # 2,439
Total Points: 219
Last Year: 194
Last 30 Days: 1
7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeffrey Dunn been climbing?










Contributions


All 308 | Routes 5 | Areas 5 | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 19 | Posts 66 | Stars 181 | Ratings 17

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Hawkeye (5.9+)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Oct 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: If approaching from the right (i.e. the start of the second pitch of Three Doves) you may want two #3's. My only time up the route I used one in a horizontal down low, and I would have been a lot happier with a second one, instead of a tipped out #2 way down and right of the cleft. Haven't gone back to see what trickery might be able to protect down low without using a big cam.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4) : Photo
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Sep 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Always thought this was the variation although I climbed it this way the first time because I didn't realize the easier climbing was way out left.


Location: MT : Blodgett Canyon : Blackfoot Dome : The Free Lament (5.9+ R)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Sep 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The wire on the fixed rurp is gone. That section is pretty heads up, but has good holds. There is a very good medium offset nut placement before heading up into the business and getting to the bolt. P3 is clearly one of the best pitches anywhere as it weaves through 5 overlaps with a mix of slab climbing, edging, laybacking in a corner, airy traverse onto a stunning arete... its just sooo good.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : The Prow : Chips (5.9+)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Aug 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Finding the approach trail is tricky: a little gully about 100 yards past the campsite that reaches a faint trail that traverses up and right towards the cliff. I found the guidebook slightly misleading in that it showed the first pitch forking into left and right variations to reach the two different anchors, when it would be better described as going straight up or very hard right (I wasn't able to see the bolts from the ledge below).

There is potential for a nasty fall onto the belayer/belay... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Friends and Lovers (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Jun 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The crux is higher, moving off the big horizontal above.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Phoebe (5.10+ R)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: May 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Not 10+. It's PG if you think that the small gear at the final overlap will hold. I thought it would on lead, and didn't after bounce testing on the way down. 5.10b 5.9R to me.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Far from the Madding Crowd (5.8)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Apr 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: PG with a normal gunks rack and small TCU's if you are creative.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : El Camino (5.11b R)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Mar 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Bring the two smallest c3's.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Interiah (5.9+)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Nov 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There are a few sweet moves on this route but the dirty start, pine needle ledge traverse, and easy section up top do detract a bit.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Oct 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We added chains to the rappel route today. 7 double 60 meter raps gets you down from the top. Definitely tie knots for the second to last (pitches 3 and 4).


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Raven Crack (5.9)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: May 14, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I disagree that the climbing on the second and third pitches "has some very loose, terrible rock". In fact, the cracks are superb and very high quality. After stepping left off the belay, head straight up the cracks aiming for a big ledge/stance on the right arete. A tricky move back left and some more crack climbing gets you to the 3rd/4th class traverse ledge. When you get to the end of the dirty ramp, you are standing 3 feet above the bolts on Duet Direct. I found two decent placements (... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : I'm OK, You're OK (5.9)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: May 8, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A set of offset brassies (to build a nest 20 feet up) and a number 3 camalot are helpful gear that may not be on your normal gunks rack.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs : Black Dike (5.6 WI4-5 M3)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Jan 25, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the historical perspective Bradley.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : Photo
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Jan 25, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Nice work with this photo!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : As the cliff turns (5.8)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Oct 24, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Didn't even recognize this route existed even though I had frequented the proximate area over several years. Although it doesnt look very clean, the route itself is and has some real interesting climbing and good features. May be soft for Gunks 5.9, perhaps due to this route not being polished like some of the more popular routes.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Sunkist Wall : Arachniphobia (5.9)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Oct 17, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Although short, this route is SUPERB! Be sure not to miss it if you are in the area.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Red Pillar (5.5)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Aug 23, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I've done this climb twice and each time ended up in "do not fall" territory on the headwall above the pillar on the first pitch. I did not explore left or right of of the obvious line directly up the face so be prepared if climbing near your limit.

The headwall and the last 50 feet of the second pitch are some of the best 5.5 the gunks has to offer. The little dirty sections in between keep the route unoccupied :)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Easy Overhang (5.2)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Oct 12, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The second belay at the top of the cliff is a nightmare. There are hundreds of golf to tennis ball sized and shaped rocks that want to kill whoever is belaying on Son of Easy Overhang below. What would be an otherwise fantastic pitch for a new leader is, in my opinion, a terrible situation to put them in.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disneyland (5.6)
By: Jeffrey Dunn When: Apr 14, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: It makes no sense to belay in the notch following the awkward mantle. Instead, move up into the open book/corner above and belay from there on a bomber piton backed up with nuts. You can then extend down to a better stance which allows you to watch your second on the face below. Really great climbing if you have your logistics sorted out.