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Climbing to ski the Fuhrer Finger Route. Photo by ...


Member Since: May 16, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,743
Total Points: 190
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 651 | Routes | Areas | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts 53 | Stars 288 | Ratings 252

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Fingertrip Variation (5.8+ PG13)
By: Woodson When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: I think I counted two pins as of 10/10/14, although I may have missed one. Don't make the mistake of clipping the last pin short before the corner (like me), the rope drag easily adds a number grade. This is so good, I may get sucked over to this every time I head up Beckey's. If you're up for the grade, do it now!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Playing Hooky Var. (5.8)
By: Woodson When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: I agree, a bit more gardening is going to help this crack out. I pulled a few weeds, but definitely for a veggie lover ;) it could use a bit more cleaning until it gets stellar status. Cool route, do it to Movie Variation for a nice multi pitch outing!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheels on Fire (5.9)
By: Woodson When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: The SMC bolt hangers for the chains are both spinners...I will get up there in the fall w a wrench and put the munch on them when I can, but be aware. The glue-in is still solid.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Lazarus (5.8) : Photo
By: Woodson When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: a good idea.. we ended up with horrendous rope drag on this one..


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Satan's Corner (5.8)
By: Woodson When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: Azollo: The low way is not bad, but I like the high traverse myself. It's a good rail to grab on to, and plus there is a great spot for a small cam up there to protect your second. I've seen some folks intimidated by the move to grab the flake above the piton-it's a bit of a reach :)


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Columbian Crack (5.7)
By: Woodson When: Sep 20, 2009

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Comments: I thought this was a heady lead, as the chimney starts those thoughts rolling! Save a # 4 for the top for some peace of mind.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Private Idaho (5.9)
By: Woodson When: Sep 20, 2009

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Comments: This route gets my vote for best 5.9 trad route at the city. Cool stemming with a jam crux! Ditto previous comments, and this route protects really well.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Woodson When: Jul 26, 2009

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Comments: Wow, classic is all I can say! The last pitch is no doubt airy, but protects well, and is sustained good climbing. Definately do the right variation, as it makes the climb! The double crack stemming was my favorite part...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Boiler Maker (5.10-)
By: Woodson When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Agreed Ty.. definitely rap off after cleaning the anchor, and save your rope. The chains need to be a few links longer to hang over the edge. A great route, lots of good side pull moves.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8)
By: Woodson When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments: I think it's probably the same flake as it always has been, as it was my first attempt at the route, I just need to bring my A game and figure out the magic for that move. But a spicy one it is.....


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8)
By: Woodson When: Jul 4, 2009

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Comments: 10 4 Ben. It's just me-I'll give it another go at some point...committing and very tricky.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Waterslide (5.9+)
By: Woodson When: Jul 4, 2009

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Comments: No more tree runners..Make sure you have a couple.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8)
By: Woodson When: Jul 4, 2009

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Comments: I would agree with Michael..I started this on the flake and got stumped-it ran out and the move to get to the small double cracks was way too sketchy for me. After rapping off Crack In The Woods I ran into another climber and he said he tried it recently and backed off as well. Maybe i'm a wuss, I dunno. Anyone else climb this recently?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : The Green Adjective (5.9)
By: Woodson When: Jun 12, 2009

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Comments: Wow, great finger locks! It's all small stuff, and good slab feet for placements. I didn't place anything bigger than a # 7 BD stopper a bit higher up. Amen on the directional at the bottom...a must do.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall : Smitty's Wet Dream (5.9)
By: Woodson When: Jun 12, 2009

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Comments: A great consistent route. I had heady mental moments with some moves on this route, but it's all there. Bring micro and other small nuts, and I got a .75 camalot in below the crux. I actually had a harder time down by the bolt, and you have to be thoughtful along most of the route.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : The Pygmies Got Stoned (5.10a)
By: Woodson When: Jun 7, 2009

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Comments: Fun lead. The middle slab has some technical moves with crimper edge hand holds and makes you think.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Wheat Thin (5.7)
By: Woodson When: Jun 7, 2009

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Comments: A great route. This eats a lot of nuts, and makes a great first lead at the city!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: Woodson When: Jun 7, 2009

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Comments: Can you say deelicious!! That flake is just hanging on! The lieback moves on this route are never ending, and I did end up runnering a ton of pieces on it. I used a variety of camalots up to #4, and it protects very well. A must do.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Woodson When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: Awesome! We did the direct start and 5 pitch, and would be easier to link the first two pitches together. The offwidth is still the hard part for me, and I didn't feel too runout on the traverse, just as Nathan said it's at the the front of the traverse-it's 15 to 20 ft. between pieces-but great feet there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom Direct Variation (5.7 R)
By: Woodson When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: I agree..start Schoolroom here, and the slab move is a bit heady but not too difficult.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Callitwhatyouplease (5.8)
By: Woodson When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: Wow! Indeed a fun offwidth! For some reason the first 5.6 move down low was touchier than the actual chickenhead crux for me. Go figure...The pro is excellent and there are still 2 pins at the bottom of the crack.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Squeeze My Lemon (5.7)
By: Woodson When: May 18, 2009

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Comments: Great crack, lots of variety on the moves. This protects well with many different sizes of camalots, and a few runners are handy. The tree/bush is alive and well btw!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : MEGA (5.9-)
By: Woodson When: May 17, 2009

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Comments: This is a fun one..and has some good moves low followed by the good scenery of Stairs Gulch. I think I used 15 draws, so bring plenty of draws, and a 60 m will barely reach with some careful lowering, so be cautious of the rope ends. We used a 70 and were fine.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Flakes of Wrath (5.9+)
By: Woodson When: May 16, 2009

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Comments: Sooooo bad A$$$$! This route should not be missed, and should be repeated and repeated. The undercling is so great, and protects well, and runners here are a good call. I didn't runner it and ended with some drag.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : 30 Seconds Over Potash (5.8)
By: Woodson When: May 16, 2009

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Comments: Awesome! The crux is definitely low, and is semi reachy. The rest sews up well, and agreed that it"s good to be doubled up on bigger camalots, as I placed #s 1 through 3 up higher.