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Member Since: Dec 8, 2010
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 809
Total Points: 795
Last Year: 137
Last 30 Days: 9
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Wilson On The Drums been climbing?










Wilson On The Drums

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 626 | Routes 26 | Areas 7 | Photos 65 | Page Improvements | Comments 105 | Posts 75 | Stars 191 | Ratings 157
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Not the Pawn (Other Pawns) : Just My Baby and Me (5.10+)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: I'll add a photo once I get one. This route teeters on the 5.10+/5.11- grade, you be the judge as I've heard both.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Cold Feat (5.9)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: This route is sandbagged at 5.7 imo (5.7 rating comes from Touch the Sky). moves going through first bolt are easily 5.9. i would agree that after that the route is 5.7.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : TOWERS OF TEETH : ... : Waste Knot (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: long sling every bolt to minimize drag. awesome route that is very consistent and just keeps coming. this route is pg-13 for sure so be ready when you leave the ground. 15-20ft between each bolt.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : High Point
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: tunes! get on it, if only on TR. super fun and flows so well. would be a heady lead but would be do-able if you didnt fall before the 1st of 3 bolts.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : Pheromone Wall : Dragonfly (5.9)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: delicate and slabby smears. pretty atypical for the spearfish routes. really fun, honest but hard 5.9, and no give aways on this route. get on it!


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Bull Rock : Too Cold For My Asspen (5.9 PG13)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: yes


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Northeast Slice : Sunkist (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: awesome route, don't slip clipping the first bolt or you'd be hurtin' real bad, a similar outcome could happen if you fell right before the 2nd bolt. get on it!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Northeast Slice
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: NE Slice is the farthest *right of said spires.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Veiny : Burley Buttress (5.10a/b)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: trust your feet and it will take this from 5.10 to 5.9. don't trust them and it's gonna be tough. fun route.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Veiny : Broken Beliefs (5.9+)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: i would highly recommend stick clipping the first bolt if one decides to lead this. clipping the first bolt seemed like it would be tedious and if one slipped it would be a ways down to the ground.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Little Dripper (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: awesome route, similar to weird water with a little more variation (cracks), more difficulty, and a bit more spicy. i don't think it quite warrants a pg-13 but it was at the edge of my comfort zone for sure. the route is very sustained so be ready for what it's about to throw at you. get on it!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Far Downs : Bard (5.8-)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: if you're in the area on routes like left wing of smaug and of quartz then you should get on this one as well. pretty slabby but if you trust the feet you'll cruise through it.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Far Downs : Of Quartz It Goes (5.7)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: great route. the traverses weren't too bad and 5.7 seemed appropriate. the second short pitch with the 3 bolts was a blast too. i felt the crux was at about the 4th bolt on the 1st pitch and 1st bolt on the second.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Near Downs : Fool of a Took (5.9-)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: sweet route. good right from the start going to the first bolt. 5.9+ seemed appropriate but that could be due to the fact that i suck at crack climbing but the route seemed to stay on top of you the whole time and didn't really let up until the very end. what ever grade this settles in at it is definitely worth getting on it.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Sea Islands : Duckbill : Duckbill (5.7 R)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: whats with the bolts in the photo? was this retro bolted or is that a different route?


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Trash Can Boulders
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the awesome info/beta Greg, I've heard similar things about the red dots going up after problems had already been sent or established. I'll get the routes up on here to reflect that info as well as change some of those colored lines. This is a great area with really fun routes.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Trash Can Boulders : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: after reading jon marek's remarks/routes he put up for the area it would seem that the yellow route is what he referred to as"majesty/v3" and the red is what he referred to as "vagabond/v0+"


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Trash Can Boulders
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: Great area, short approach, and a variety of problems in the V0 - Vhard range. I presume Mike Olsen nabbed many of the FAs here hence the large number of red dots scattered amongst the boulders. Hopefully these pictures help a bit for anyone looking to get out and get some sends. If anyone knows names and grades please post up.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Far Downs : Left Wing of Smaug (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Thought provoking moves and consistent climbing make this a great route. Felt 5.8 but it keeps you on your toes for awhile so come prepared. It would have been nice to know a little more info before I headed into this though b/c I nearly found myself in R rated territory. There is no "jamming" on this route and it's really a bolt protected route that can take 1 or 2 pieces of gear all the way up top after the last bolt. When looking at the water groove from the bottom you will see a large separa... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8) : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: again for some beta, you'll miss the first piton if you take this way. i think the original route is about 10 feet right of this in the small series of flakes.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8) : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: not sure if this is the original route but if you go up where this climber is you'll miss the first piton.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: apparently can be done one of two ways. one being the original route 5.8+ and the other being 9+ if not 10. it looks like the original route goes straight up a layback flake, this will bring you to the first piton. the way we took was pretty far left and climbed a shoulder with an actual crack, not a flake. the moves were hard and the gear wasnt the best but it was all there and was really enjoyable. done this way you'll miss the first piton and end up at the second piton where you then will joi... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Khayyam Spire : God's Own Drunk (5.8+)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: This climb is great. I was a little confused as to where we should go for the second pitch but I believe it goes straight up from the bolted anchor at the end of pitch one. 1st pitch had a couple hard 5.8 moves to get going but then eases up after that and then finishes on a set of double cracks with a couple hard 5.8 moves as well. The route then goes 15 or so feet right to the bolted anchor. We went straight up from here for the second pitch and it was really enjoyable. There was good protecti... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : Lord Of The Flies Wall : The Conch (5.11a)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: great climb with great movement. the description of the route is spot on. very big reach with and undercling around bolt 4 or 5. redpoint crux going for the anchors. this route will give you your moneys worth!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : Indecent Exposure : Tasting Time (5.10a)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: very sustained and sequential. the defined crux for me was stepping into a bad left foot and pulling with a left hand sidepull / right hand crimp, while bumping up a high right foot and going for a horizontal slot right under the 6th or 7th bolt. i wasn't able to make the move on lead. after getting through that section the climb doesn't really let up, but transitions from pockets to balance intensive crimpy climbing. fun and thought provoking route for sure. helps to have a reach.


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