Comments: Thanks for the awesome info/beta Greg, I've heard similar things about the red dots going up after problems had already been sent or established. I'll get the routes up on here to reflect that info as well as change some of those colored lines. This is a great area with really fun routes.
Comments: Great area, short approach, and a variety of problems in the V0 - Vhard range. I presume Mike Olsen nabbed many of the FAs here hence the large number of red dots scattered amongst the boulders. Hopefully these pictures help a bit for anyone looking to get out and get some sends. If anyone knows names and grades please post up.
Comments: Thought provoking moves and consistent climbing make this a great route. Felt 5.8 but it keeps you on your toes for awhile so come prepared. It would have been nice to know a little more info before I headed into this though b/c I nearly found myself in R rated territory. There is no "jamming" on this route and it's really a bolt protected route that can take 1 or 2 pieces of gear all the way up top after the last bolt. When looking at the water groove from the bottom you will see a large separa... more >>
Comments: apparently can be done one of two ways. one being the original route 5.8+ and the other being 9+ if not 10. it looks like the original route goes straight up a layback flake, this will bring you to the first piton. the way we took was pretty far left and climbed a shoulder with an actual crack, not a flake. the moves were hard and the gear wasnt the best but it was all there and was really enjoyable. done this way you'll miss the first piton and end up at the second piton where you then will joi... more >>
Comments: This climb is great. I was a little confused as to where we should go for the second pitch but I believe it goes straight up from the bolted anchor at the end of pitch one. 1st pitch had a couple hard 5.8 moves to get going but then eases up after that and then finishes on a set of double cracks with a couple hard 5.8 moves as well. The route then goes 15 or so feet right to the bolted anchor. We went straight up from here for the second pitch and it was really enjoyable. There was good protecti... more >>
Comments: great climb with great movement. the description of the route is spot on. very big reach with and undercling around bolt 4 or 5. redpoint crux going for the anchors. this route will give you your moneys worth!
Comments: very sustained and sequential. the defined crux for me was stepping into a bad left foot and pulling with a left hand sidepull / right hand crimp, while bumping up a high right foot and going for a horizontal slot right under the 6th or 7th bolt. i wasn't able to make the move on lead. after getting through that section the climb doesn't really let up, but transitions from pockets to balance intensive crimpy climbing. fun and thought provoking route for sure. helps to have a reach.
Comments: American Life is 4 stars in the guide book and after climbing and thoroughly enjoying it I thought I would give this, Sgt Baker, supposed 3 star route, a try. I would say don't even bother. The route is covered in moss, lichen, and dirt. The only 5.9 move comes after the 3rd bolt and once you get into the vertical cracks you run into some real chossy rock and you have to work your way around the greenery. I didn't bother finishing the climb after the mid-point anchors but it didn't look like it ... more >>
Comments: If any one knows the name of the route and the FA info please chime in. I didn't see it in either rushmore guidebook (old or new) but i am certain that this must have been climbed in the past.
Comments: great fun. i'm not sure how everyone goes at this line but i managed to scramble up the back and set up a top rope. when climbing i stayed in the crack until the 4th bolt and then traversed into the line proper. my partner traversed in at the 3rd bolt. either way this route was fun, powerful, and full of good movements. there is another way to the summit besides tuck and roll too. when you are at the anchors of all tuckered out and looking at the first bolt of tuck and roll, look for a water gro... more >>
Comments: thanks for the beta. i didn't see a sds when i was working it. i saw the right hand gaston but didn't want anything to do with it haha, it's tiny. the sds makes a lot of since though because you get to utilize the "good" holds in a better way.
Comments: would it be correct to say from L-R "gas for my ass V5" "jumper V5" "ode to violette V5" "chuck fryberger's crazy highball (idk the name)" and then "hydracrack?" or is ode to violette inbetween gas for my ass and jumper?
Comments: Sorry if I sounded worked up, I was just really saying thanks for giving some input. And again if you know the FA info and any other problems around in the Robinson Rock area it'd be great to hear it.
Comments: the hard part is not the credit card or the two finger crystal starting holds, but going from the first sloper to the second. it's a big throw with nothing for feet, i tried to do a go-go gadget extend-a-arm but i still came up short. the starting move is V4 by itself. get on it.
Comments: Great climb! I'll echo a little of what others said and add a little bit of my own two cents. First and foremost if you're not solid at Tower grades (regardless of the climb) get ready for a wee bit of a challenge. Keep your head in the game and keep moving fast. I haven't led much at the Tower and what I've done has been easy, like the first pitch of El Cracko, and a couple of the pitches on Durrance. My theory is that if it's 5.9, expect every move to be 5.9 (like if you've done a climb that i... more >>