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best in the hills


Member Since: Dec 8, 2010
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 798
Total Points: 788
Last Year: 197
Last 30 Days: 1
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Wilson On The Drums been climbing?










Wilson On The Drums

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 591 | Routes 26 | Areas 7 | Photos 66 | Page Improvments | Comments 93 | Posts 59 | Stars 187 | Ratings 153
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Youbet Jorasses : Inner Course (5.4)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 4, 2014

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Comments: to second what kirtis said you CAN barely get off with a single 70m. watch your ends!


Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Jump Start (5.10a)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: don't let feriss' comment stop you from getting on this. it's a super fun and solid 5.10 and was not as gritty as a lot of the other routes at redwing tend to be. muscle moves down low and fun climbing up top.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8) : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: red line in photo FA dennis horning, '89, oldschool 5.9 but not far off (5.10-) with good pro.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: again, middle earth is a complicated area and it usually takes me awhile to find what I'm looking for. I hope this helps. Please let me know if any formations are incorrectly labeled as this is from memory and general route descriptions on this site.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: middle earth is a complicated area and it usually takes me awhile to find what I'm looking for. I hope this helps. Please let me know if any formations are incorrectly labeled as this is from memory and general route descriptions on this site.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8) : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: this should clear any confusion. sorry for the small size, but you can zoom in on it and then look at the picture posted by kirtis labeled "approximate route" to see the features better.


Location: SD : Horsethief Lake Area : The Playground : Playground Proper : Sultan's Tower (5.4 PG13)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: https://www.facebook.com/blackhillsrockclimbing/photos/pb.10>>>

great route with a similar feel to spire 4 in the cathedral spires


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Mount Baldy / "old baldy" : Old Baldy Frontside : Sports Action Boulder : Flow Kennel Company (V4-5)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: "Pretty straight forward problem to the right of Lady Fingers. Short hardest part would be the mantle."To the left of Lady Fingers a few feet." ... i would assume this is to the left of lady fingers?


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7) : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Less is more on durrance due to the chimney and off-width parts. a set of bd nuts 4-13, a set of bd c4 cams from 0.5 to 3, and a couple of long slings is perfect. although not necessary, a bd c4 #4 can be placed on almost every pitch and is nice to have if this is your first route on the tower.


Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area : Micro Balls (5.9+)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: 10- seems legit for an onsight lead, 9 or 9+ is more appropriate if you have beta and know where you're going (aka hidden holds)


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Shakers : Pointy Little Devil (5.8) : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: There's a climb that goes up a two stage arete to a face located 180degrees behind PLD. It has about 11-12 black bolts and is 5.7-5.8ish. I believe this photo was taken from the top of that climb...


Location: SD : The VC : Hucky Sucky 5.10 Bucky (5.10b)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: 80 feet is a rough guess, at 12 bolts this is probably the longest route in VC, 60m is plenty.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Cold Feat (5.9)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: variation is what makes climbing fun and unique to the individual. i must not have the span to make this a 5.7. i face climbed to the left of the first bolt and then did a tricky traverse to the right into the flake. my partner had an easier time and stemmed the whole first section. the top is definitely easier 5.7 (5.6 in spots) and is super fun. i agree with brent l that this is probably the easiest/fastest way to get a TR on 2 year plan, or even classic crack, it can be TRed with a single 70m... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Not the Pawn (Other Pawns) : Just My Baby and Me (5.10+)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: I'll add a photo once I get one. This route teeters on the 5.10+/5.11- grade, you be the judge as I've heard both.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Cold Feat (5.9)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: This route is sandbagged at 5.7 imo (5.7 rating comes from Touch the Sky). moves going through first bolt are easily 5.9. i would agree that after that the route is 5.7.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : TOWERS OF TEETH : ... : Waste Knot (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: long sling every bolt to minimize drag. awesome route that is very consistent and just keeps coming. this route is pg-13 for sure so be ready when you leave the ground. 15-20ft between each bolt.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : High Point
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: tunes! get on it, if only on TR. super fun and flows so well. would be a heady lead but would be do-able if you didnt fall before the 1st of 3 bolts.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : Pheromone Wall : Dragonfly (5.9)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: delicate and slabby smears. pretty atypical for the spearfish routes. really fun, honest but hard 5.9, and no give aways on this route. get on it!


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Bull Rock : Too Cold For My Asspen (5.9 PG13)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: yes


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Northeast Slice : Sunkist (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: awesome route, don't slip clipping the first bolt or you'd be hurtin' real bad, a similar outcome could happen if you fell right before the 2nd bolt. get on it!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Northeast Slice
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: NE Slice is the farthest *right of said spires.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Veiny : Burley Buttress (5.10a/b)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: trust your feet and it will take this from 5.10 to 5.9. don't trust them and it's gonna be tough. fun route.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Veiny : Broken Beliefs (5.9+)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: i would highly recommend stick clipping the first bolt if one decides to lead this. clipping the first bolt seemed like it would be tedious and if one slipped it would be a ways down to the ground.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Little Dripper (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: awesome route, similar to weird water with a little more variation (cracks), more difficulty, and a bit more spicy. i don't think it quite warrants a pg-13 but it was at the edge of my comfort zone for sure. the route is very sustained so be ready for what it's about to throw at you. get on it!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Far Downs : Bard (5.8-)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: if you're in the area on routes like left wing of smaug and of quartz then you should get on this one as well. pretty slabby but if you trust the feet you'll cruise through it.


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