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Member Since: Jul 13, 2008
Last Visit: Feb 6, 2012
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Point Rank: # 6,925
Total Points: 30
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Willoughby

 
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Contributions


All (21) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (3) | Comments (5) | Posts | Stars (9) | Ratings (3)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Hands Masseuse (5.8)
By: Willoughby When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Went to the Pie Shop for the first time a few weeks back, and a party was camped out on this route ALL DAY. I went back and did it today, and now I know why. Way more fun than the two-star reviews suggest. Sure it's grainy, but tape up and enjoy the locker jams. Aside from a couple of psychological cruxes for the leader, it's pure fun - killer jams, and some fun stemming and chimneying higher up. This is a fun route - we each had to take two laps! You can toprope with a 60m rope, bu... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : North Stars Wall : Free and Easy (5.6)
By: Willoughby When: Aug 20, 2009

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Comments: FYI, the first 2/3 of the route don't offer a lot of protection for the aspiring 5.6 leader.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : North Stars Wall : Childhood's Beginning (5.8)
By: Willoughby When: Aug 20, 2009

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Comments: We did this last weekend. Not sure that I understand your route description entirely, but I'm sure there are variations. Anyhow, we took a very direct approach to get to the base of the Childhood's Beginning dihedral. The upper crack runs out of rock before the top, however. There's no more pro out on the arete, so my partner crossed over into the dihedral after manteling up onto the arete; I stepped across one or two body lengths below, and gained the dihedral just above the bush.... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Hair Shirt (5.8+)
By: Willoughby When: Jul 13, 2008

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Comments: I don't bother with any heel-toe on this one; for me the whole upper half is perfect, hands-free, right-side-in knee locks (wear pants!!). About 2/3 of the way up, there is a spot for a #6 friend if you really want to place one. Otherwise, you can push along a #5 through most of the upper part; no Big Bros necessary.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Devaluation Direct (5.10a R)
By: Willoughby When: Jul 13, 2008

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Comments: WARNING!!! - Spoiler gear beta ahead!!!!


If you happen to have a #5 friend, there's a perfect spot for it right off the deck. A #4 is a touch too small for that spot, but can go right where you need a crucial fist, but with that #5 you get great pro and still get to use that fist jam...perfect! Not "R" at all in my opinion.