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Member Since: Jul 13, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 6,851
Total Points: 43
Last Year: 13
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Willoughby been climbing?










Contributions


All 75 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvments | Comments 13 | Posts | Stars 39 | Ratings 18

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Pratt's Crack (5.9)
By: Willoughby When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I just did this last week, and Ybarra's gear beta makes no sense. You can walk a WC #6 for most of the bottom, and then finally again towards the top. There is definitely a little blank stretch in the upper half though, where the gear goes away and so did my heel-toe.

In no particular order, I used a single WC#6 and two WC #5, two BD #4, a #2 metolious on the side wall, a BD #0.5 against a chockstone, and a couple of small nuts on that side wall. ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : Pony Express (5.9) : Photo
By: Willoughby When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Pretty sure the loose top of that flake had made it to the ground as of last Saturday.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Rated X (5.7)
By: Willoughby When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: I find the wide crack starting P2 to be pretty straightforward, you just have to stem a little to get up to where the crack narrows. The reach for the ledge after rounding the roof, however, always feels a million miles away.


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : River Rock : Karls Crack (5.10a)
By: Willoughby When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Personally, I find the start to be the crux. The upper part feels like 5.8-5.9 hands and fists to me. Different strokes, I guess, and it's not like I have gigantic hands. Pretty coarse up top, too, so tape is nice.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Dome : Main Wall : Hobbit Book (5.7)
By: Willoughby When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: People talk about Pitch 3 being reachy. I'm 5'8" and never felt it was a problem. I did manage to tie-off three plates along the way,using regular shoulder-length runners, but I'm not sure they would have done much.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Hungover Hangover (5.10a)
By: Willoughby When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: I'll second the pain/tape comments. Ouch. I'm in no hurry to repeat this one.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Inside Out (5.6)
By: Willoughby When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: The other pitches are totally fun and worthy, but they do need some more traffic to help clean them up, especially the first pitch chimney. But it'd be a classic if more people got on it (and the chimney didn't scare folks away). That first pitch is probably 5.8 if I remember right. It's been a while since I could convince anybody to climb it with me!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Full Tilt (5.11)
By: Willoughby When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: This is easily toproped, but I recall from toprope soloing this thing a few years ago that the line rubs on a pretty sharp edge when weighted. Like I said, it's been a few years, so I can't recall the exact scenario, but I do recall getting good and spooked by it.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Hands Masseuse (5.8)
By: Willoughby When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Went to the Pie Shop for the first time a few weeks back, and a party was camped out on this route ALL DAY. I went back and did it today, and now I know why. Way more fun than the two-star reviews suggest. Sure it's grainy, but tape up and enjoy the locker jams. Aside from a couple of psychological cruxes for the leader, it's pure fun - killer jams, and some fun stemming and chimneying higher up. This is a fun route - we each had to take two laps! You can toprope with a 60m rope, bu... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : North Stars Wall : Free and Easy (5.6)
By: Willoughby When: Aug 20, 2009

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Comments: FYI, the first 2/3 of the route don't offer a lot of protection for the aspiring 5.6 leader.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : North Stars Wall : Childhood's Beginning (5.8)
By: Willoughby When: Aug 20, 2009

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Comments: We did this last weekend. Not sure that I understand your route description entirely, but I'm sure there are variations. Anyhow, we took a very direct approach to get to the base of the Childhood's Beginning dihedral. The upper crack runs out of rock before the top, however. There's no more pro out on the arete, so my partner crossed over into the dihedral after manteling up onto the arete; I stepped across one or two body lengths below, and gained the dihedral just above the bush.... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Hair Shirt (5.8+)
By: Willoughby When: Jul 13, 2008

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Comments: I don't bother with any heel-toe on this one; for me the whole upper half is perfect, hands-free, right-side-in knee locks (wear pants!!). About 2/3 of the way up, there is a spot for a #6 friend if you really want to place one. Otherwise, you can push along a #5 through most of the upper part; no Big Bros necessary.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Devaluation Direct (5.10a R)
By: Willoughby When: Jul 13, 2008

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Comments: WARNING!!! - Spoiler gear beta ahead!!!!


If you happen to have a #5 friend, there's a perfect spot for it right off the deck. A #4 is a touch too small for that spot, but can go right where you need a crucial fist, but with that #5 you get great pro and still get to use that fist jam...perfect! Not "R" at all in my opinion.