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Member Since: Jul 13, 2008
Last Visit: Feb 6, 2012
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Point Rank: # 6,929
Total Points: 30
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Willoughby

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (21) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (3) | Comments (5) | Posts | Stars (9) | Ratings (3)

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

Rick and Eric's

5.10b PG13 (9)

Trad, 1 pitch

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Jul 13, 2008

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
Plugging gear before the reach up and around to the right.

Plugging gear before the reach up and around to the right.

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Rick and Eric's (5.10b PG13)

Jul 13, 2008

My buddy Zach, stylin' the wide bit

My buddy Zach, stylin' the wide bit

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Rick and Eric's (5.10b PG13)

Jul 13, 2008

Shadows make it look like more of an OW than it really is; there are good fists in there

Shadows make it look like more of an OW than it really is; there are good fists in there

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Rick and Eric's (5.10b PG13)

Jul 13, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Hands Masseuse (5.8)
By: Willoughby When: Feb 6, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Went to the Pie Shop for the first time a few weeks back, and a party was camped out on this route ALL DAY. I went back and did it today, and now I know why. Way more fun than the two-star reviews suggest. Sure it's grainy, but tape up and enjoy the locker jams. Aside from a couple of psychological cruxes for the leader, it's pure fun - killer jams, and some fun stemming and chimneying higher up. This is a fun route - we each had to take two laps! You can toprope with a 60m rope, bu... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : North Stars Wall : Free and Easy (5.6)
By: Willoughby When: Aug 20, 2009

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Comments: FYI, the first 2/3 of the route don't offer a lot of protection for the aspiring 5.6 leader.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : North Stars Wall : Childhood's Beginning (5.8)
By: Willoughby When: Aug 20, 2009

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Comments: We did this last weekend. Not sure that I understand your route description entirely, but I'm sure there are variations. Anyhow, we took a very direct approach to get to the base of the Childhood's Beginning dihedral. The upper crack runs out of rock before the top, however. There's no more pro out on the arete, so my partner crossed over into the dihedral after manteling up onto the arete; I stepped across one or two body lengths below, and gained the dihedral just above the bush.... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Hair Shirt (5.8+)
By: Willoughby When: Jul 13, 2008

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Comments: I don't bother with any heel-toe on this one; for me the whole upper half is perfect, hands-free, right-side-in knee locks (wear pants!!). About 2/3 of the way up, there is a spot for a #6 friend if you really want to place one. Otherwise, you can push along a #5 through most of the upper part; no Big Bros necessary.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Devaluation Direct (5.10a R)
By: Willoughby When: Jul 13, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: WARNING!!! - Spoiler gear beta ahead!!!!


If you happen to have a #5 friend, there's a perfect spot for it right off the deck. A #4 is a touch too small for that spot, but can go right where you need a crucial fist, but with that #5 you get great pro and still get to use that fist jam...perfect! Not "R" at all in my opinion.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Rick and Eric's 5.10b PG13

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Hair Shirt 5.8+

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Black September 5.9

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Black Wall

Molar Concentration 5.10b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Jam Session 5.10b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Composure 5.6

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Bottomless Topless 5.10a

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Hands Masseuse 5.8

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Main Wall

Devaluation Direct 5.10a R

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Devaluation Direct

5.10a R

5.9+ PG13

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Nova Express

5.9

5.9+

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Hair Shirt

5.8+

5.8

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall