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Beaver Mountain


Member Since: Sep 30, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Williampenner


Point Rank: # 1,112
Total Points: 553
Last Year: 191
Last 30 Days: 2
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Williampenner been climbing?










Contributions


All 345 | Routes 27 | Areas 7 | Photos 16 | Page Improvments | Comments 98 | Posts 99 | Stars 87 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Subdivisions : Murall Blanca--The White Wa...
By: Williampenner When: 5 days ago

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Comments: The description for the Subdivisions provides an explanation for the red tags, as the routes aren't fully cleaned yet. Some of the routes will have to wait for cooler temps to get sent. There are lots of other new lines in the general area ready to climbed and the three non-red tagged routes at the White Wall are really good.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : ... : Photo
By: Williampenner When: 5 days ago

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Comments: My best guess is that the picture was taken from somewhere on the La Selva route on the west face of Muralla Grande looking north-northwest to the Needle. I haven't done the La Selva route, but this seems like where you might get this vantage point of the ridge north of Muralla Grande.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Retirement Wall
By: Williampenner When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Centrum Silver is brilliant. I keep it in the same cut-glass bowl as my hard candies for when guests come over.

Now if I can just find the submit button without my reading glasses....


Location: Williampenner : Random : Photo
By: Williampenner When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: This is a very lovely Dakota sandstone boulder somewhere in NM that gave the impression of a large mountain in the photo. I enhanced that effect by Photoshopping the clouds already in the sky to cover portions of the boulder. It turned out fairly well for a few minutes of monkeying around. The actual photo shows about an 8-foot wide swath of the boulder.


Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock : Photo
By: Williampenner When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: That looks super cool, but is almost certainly not the original summit register. The first two ascents have the same handwriting. Also, the first ascent is talked about in the third person, which would be very odd if it were the original register. Thanks for the pic--very interesting.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : ... : Photo
By: Williampenner When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Awesome photo on the best pitch in the Sandias.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Independence Gully : Double Your Pleasure (5.11a)
By: Williampenner When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: I was pretty unimpressed by this route. Blowing the second clip would mean serious ground fall potential

Blowing most second clips would mean serious groundfall potential!

This route is not a classic and I would only bother to do it while hiding from the sun in the Independence Gully...and I was one of the folks who put the route up. Lead the line to the left, TR this route quickly and skip the groundfall issue altogether. Kvetching about a sport route with groundfall potential when ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : The Sorcerer (5.12b PG13)
By: Williampenner When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: For what it is worth Sky, we added a bolt to the second pitch of Thunderbird at the request of several folks who felt a section was far too run out and dangerous with significant ledge fall potential. It used to be very R-rated and now is much better protected. Not sure how Mick and John dealt with the pro on The Sorcerer, however. Great to see others repeating stuff to figure it out though.

W


Location: NM : Photo
By: Williampenner When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: Nice shot...where is that relative to the main part of the box and which side? They have closed off some of the access roads from the highway between Dixon and Penasco so the approach is longer if you want to go in from the top end of the box. I've only ever seen one sad-looking bolt in the main box about 20' above the river where someone clearly starting drilling then gave up. A cool canyon for sure.

W


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Wild Hops (5.12)
By: Williampenner When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Best route on the wall. Nice job on the FA, although the first bolt is mighty high off the ground.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Funkmaster Afro Groove (5.14b/c)
By: Williampenner When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Sweet! Way to beat the heat and send that thing.

W


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: Williampenner When: Dec 27, 2012

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Comments: David McKenzie wrote: Just a question: Why is this in the Santa Fe section of MP? It's just so much closer to White Rock....

I love this question and would enjoy the story of anyone who approached Diablo from White Rock. Hats off to that adventurous soul.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Photo
By: Williampenner When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Chris,

Eric and I, the FA party of Wizard of Air, give you permission to clip the bolts we placed with the blessing of the Wizard of Odd first ascentionist ;)

Sorry you feel they intrude on your experience, but I did not hear a complaint about the pin we fixed at the beginning of the route. That makes a sketchy section with ledge-fall potential much better.

Glad to see anybody getting out into the Sandias and climbing the routes, both old and new.

Cheers,

W


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Right Side of Grotto Entran... : Woogie's Wild Ride (5.11b)
By: Williampenner When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: I love the semi-regular updates from Diablo about holds or sections of wall falling off and the glue and dirt left behind. Quality and hilarious.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (06) The Dihedral Wall : Lucky Boy (5.11c)
By: Williampenner When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: Chinese burger joint...

Lucky Boy Restaurant
3521 Constitution Avenue Northeast, Albuquerque, NM 87106

We also felt like lucky boys on the FA.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : ... : Photo
By: Williampenner When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Nice photo! I always wanted to go back and take some shots of that pitch. Such amazing stone and climbing. There are not many better positions in the Sandias than that.

Pulling onto the arÍte and heading for the anchors on the FA was one of great moments of my climbing life. Super wild up there.

Glad to see some activity on the line.

W


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Santa Maria : ... : Photo
By: Williampenner When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: That is a lot of salad; veganeering at its best. I can taste the lichen in the face and eyes already. The crack looks fun where you can see it. Good on you guys for getting out to the obscurities and doing new stuff.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : The Temple
By: Williampenner When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: Comments from anonymous posters like chufftard are a bummer and generally lead to nothing but bad blood. Even the person who posted the Temple has no other MP.com contributions and is probably trying to stir things up with posting. Take that stuff elsewhere.

BTW, the Temple was perfectly fine to climb at before the glue went in. The landing was a partial junk show though. What happened there was sad, about as sad as the Temple being the epicenter of NM's hardest lines.

W


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Wiretap (5.10c PG13)
By: Williampenner When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: Small edit--the route name is Wiretap rather than Wiretrap.

Good job on the lead Matthias...the first time up Wiretap is quite exciting.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: Williampenner When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: Bill,

Sounds like you just got off-route on Bitches Brew. That has happened to lots of folks.

W


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince
By: Williampenner When: Mar 7, 2012

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Comments: Ah yes Eric, I forgot about the Tat Lobster moment--we lived through it at least. Tat as part of anchors for lowering off is BS. I applaud all those like djkyote, aka bill, who actually contribute money or time to addressing these issues and buying chain or other materials for replacing anchors. Those who don't and just complain about it are bummers.

W


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince
By: Williampenner When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: In the strictest sense I am not sure chains qualify as tat. Chain lacks the romantic quality of authentic tat and can't provide nest-building material for the local rodents.

To be really quality tat it needs to be frighteningly easy to cut through, completely sun-bleached, and produce that weird nylon sawdust kinda thing. Really good tat multiplies until fills the entire hanger or piton so you have to get rid of it before a biner will fit--mmmmm.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound (main upper clu... : The Manatee (V4-5)
By: Williampenner When: Feb 9, 2012

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Comments: Sweet video! Post more.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound
By: Williampenner When: Feb 7, 2012

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Comments: Bummer to hear about folks destroying holds.

Dave, where are these new V7s and V8s being put up at U-Mound?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Cat Daddy (5.13-)
By: Williampenner When: Jan 13, 2012

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Comments: Does open bivying really suck or is it a pleasant night under the stars?

That depends on whether you left the jackets a few pitches below, are wearing long underwear or a hat, if you have enough cigarettes, etc. So many variables go into that one, the only constant being that you are always certain the other guy has it better than you.


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