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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: William Prehm When: Jul 1, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: For the sake of safety: The first chance to place pro on this climb is high and in my opinion the crux of the climb. Make sure not to rely on a single pro placement when committing to moving into the crack.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose
By: William Prehm When: Apr 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Along with some excellent bouldering there is also some good tope ropes on the bigger boulders. Brings some slings because the bolts are on the tops of the boulders. One of the best problems is a thin crack that moves diagonally left to right across the face of one of the larger boulders. Near the approach to Ten Years After.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Silver Spoon (5.5)
By: William Prehm When: Nov 15, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have actually always considered this climb to be at least 5.6. The tricky part of this climb is the distance between protection and about half way up you have to make a slabby/mantle move, is that possible? Sure felt like something like that to me. Follow the dihedral to the top. If you are going to set this climb up for some beginners to top rope you better bring some slings because the bolt anchors are around the corner in the gully.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods
By: William Prehm When: Nov 15, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock at Garden of the Gods is comprised of very soft sandstone. A few years ago one of the most popular routes Pete and Bob's lost a huge chunk of rock because some climbers didnt let the rock dry out after it had rained. The sandstone here is VERY brittle when wet.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Crynoid Corner (5.7)
By: William Prehm When: Nov 14, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, that climb to the right of CEP is called First Blood and is a super climb. I have never tried it trad. Add Sticks and Stones... on Cactus Rose Wall to your list. I swear you will see it and HAVE to climb it. I guess with some of these cracks being bolted if you ever get in trouble leading it trad you could always just clip a bolt and keep from getting hurt. Might be a good way for some climbers to break into trad climbing with out so much risk.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Crynoid Corner (5.7)
By: William Prehm When: Nov 14, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree. The climb could easily be climbed trad. It seemed that the placements would have been very straightforward. This is one of those climbs that you go Huuummmm wonder why this happened? Maybe just for convenience since very few people go to shelf to trad climb.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Aoxamoxoa (5.12b)
By: William Prehm When: Nov 1, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spelling is correct if it is named after an album by the Grateful Dead with the same name.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Lick My Love Pump aka Love ... (5.10b/c)
By: William Prehm When: Oct 18, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the crux moves at the start, I thought the climb eased up a lot all the way to the anchors. I could have sworn that this was the furthest climb to the right on the large ledge. I thought Jumbo Pumping Love started on the ground to the right of the big ledge? Definite signs you are on the right climb is the knife-like hold fifteen feet from the start and that there are 7 bolts on route.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Reefer Madness (5.8)
By: William Prehm When: Sep 7, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite climbs on the perch. The double parallel crack at the start is excellent and I love the way the crack moves to the left and peters out towards the top which forces you to do some face/slab moves to the crack under the roof. I recommend saving a few small cams for the end of the crack. (Blue or Green Alien)
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : La Chaim (5.7 R)
By: William Prehm When: Aug 6, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I though the hardest move was a mantle/slab move (more mentally challenging than technical) at the end of the first pitch with about twenty-five feet of run-out below you. Serious fall potential on this one. The finger crack on the second pitch is excellent.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Table Mountain South
By: William Prehm When: Aug 3, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last time I checked this area has been CLOSED. The mineral rights were leased to the gravel company by the state for eighty years. The gate has been replaced by a HEAVY duty gate so you can't get around it anymore. I have noticed a lot of really nice dark red gravel being used in construction sites around Colorado Springs. Not a joke.
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