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Top of Disneyland Gunks


Member Since: Dec 1, 2012
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 15,464
Total Points: 10
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 228 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 5 | Posts 172 | Stars 40 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Top of Disneyland Gunks

Top of Disneyland Gunks

WillamR : Climbing Shtuff

Aug 20, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6)
By: WillamR When: 9 hours ago

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Comments: I've led this climb thrice at this point. With proper footwork in the crack this climb is no harder than 5.6. Any competency with footjams and chicken wings makes the off width a breeze. I led it each time with a #5 and would admittedly feel uneasy without it.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : The Sins of the Son (5.10+)
By: WillamR When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Only found 6 bolts on this today --did I miss something?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: WillamR When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: Got off route on the 2nd pitch due to not reading the guidebook. Got into an interesting traverse sequence that was more than I bargained for. I'd definitely call that section 5.7.

As for the 3rd pitch, I'd say the first roof goes at a solid 5.7. Harder than any other 5.6 roof in the gunks. Good hands/jams, but awkward.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: WillamR When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: I consider myself a solid Gunks 5.6 leader. I'm on the way out of the grade, and I just led High E this Monday.

I thought the moves were far easier than other 5.6's without the infamous "+" (wisecrack, wrist, disneyland to name a few). I wish I had done this climb when I was a little newer at the grade, so I could have gotten the full on experience, but I thought it was a nice little pitch with one or two 5.6 moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Playground : Fine Pine Line (5.7)
By: WillamR When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Really enjoyed this route. I followed then led it, so I was able to find a key hold that made the crux stance far more comfortable on my lead attempt. The gear is all there, albeit small at the crux. This would feel 5.7 on an onsight attempt, but after finding the key holds it's in the 5.6 realm.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Gunks partner 3/25 or other nice daysEastern and Southern StatesWillamR4 days ago
re: Gunks partner 3/25 or other nice daysEastern and Southern StatesWillamR4 days ago
re: Gunks partner 3/25 or other nice daysEastern and Southern StatesWillamR5 days ago
re: New Alpinism + Rock Prodigy? Training ForumWillamRMar 19, 2015
re: 3pt equalized anchor with limited extensionClimbing Gear DiscussionWillamRMar 14, 2015
re: For Sale Priced to Sell! NEW ITEMSFOR SALE / WantedWillamRMar 14, 2015
re: All gone! Thanks for playingFOR SALE / WantedWillamRMar 14, 2015
re: All gone! Thanks for playingFOR SALE / WantedWillamRMar 13, 2015
re: Faster rappelling in the GunksEastern StatesWillamRMar 11, 2015
re: All gone! Thanks for playingFOR SALE / WantedWillamRMar 11, 2015
re: All gone! Thanks for playingFOR SALE / WantedWillamRMar 10, 2015
All gone! Thanks for playingFOR SALE / WantedWillamRMar 9, 2015
re: How much snow do the Gunks have?Eastern StatesWillamRMar 6, 2015
re: How much snow do the Gunks have?Eastern StatesWillamRMar 6, 2015
re: Everything sold, thanks!FOR SALE / WantedWillamRFeb 24, 2015
re: Approach Skis /Backcountry Crosscountry SkisGeneral ClimbingWillamRFeb 2, 2015
re: Trad experience for AMGI SPIGeneral ClimbingWillamRJan 31, 2015
re: Wed climber CatskillsEastern StatesWillamRJan 29, 2015
Catskills Partner 2/2 or 2/3?Eastern and Southern StatesWillamRJan 29, 2015
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