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Top of Disneyland Gunks


Member Since: Dec 1, 2012
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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WillamR
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 249 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 7 | Posts 178 | Stars 52 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Top of Disneyland Gunks

Top of Disneyland Gunks

WillamR : Climbing Shtuff

Aug 20, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: WillamR When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: This is my 3rd season leading, and I'm breaking into the 5.9 range, and I would not call this a gimme at even 5.7 on the route I used. This was the last climb of a fairly big day, but I was hoping for the happy 5.5 that the local guide told us this would be. I echo the comments above. 5.5 leaders be warned.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8)
By: WillamR When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: I personally find the section between the two bolts to be the crux. I had used my small gear already and had nothing to proctect the section between the bolts and was feeling decently run out by the time I clipped the second bolt. This section is what I feel is 5.8 face climbing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6)
By: WillamR When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: I've led this climb thrice at this point. With proper footwork in the crack this climb is no harder than 5.6. Any competency with footjams and chicken wings makes the off width a breeze. I led it each time with a #5 and would admittedly feel uneasy without it.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : The Sins of the Son (5.10+)
By: WillamR When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Only found 6 bolts on this today --did I miss something?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: WillamR When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: Got off route on the 2nd pitch due to not reading the guidebook. Got into an interesting traverse sequence that was more than I bargained for. I'd definitely call that section 5.7.

As for the 3rd pitch, I'd say the first roof goes at a solid 5.7. Harder than any other 5.6 roof in the gunks. Good hands/jams, but awkward.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: WillamR When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: I consider myself a solid Gunks 5.6 leader. I'm on the way out of the grade, and I just led High E this Monday.

I thought the moves were far easier than other 5.6's without the infamous "+" (wisecrack, wrist, disneyland to name a few). I wish I had done this climb when I was a little newer at the grade, so I could have gotten the full on experience, but I thought it was a nice little pitch with one or two 5.6 moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Playground : Fine Pine Line (5.7)
By: WillamR When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Really enjoyed this route. I followed then led it, so I was able to find a key hold that made the crux stance far more comfortable on my lead attempt. The gear is all there, albeit small at the crux. This would feel 5.7 on an onsight attempt, but after finding the key holds it's in the 5.6 realm.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: NJ/NY/PA WeekdaysEastern and Southern StatesWillamRJun 22, 2015
re: Gear found on double crack at gunksLost and FoundWillamRJun 21, 2015
re: BD X4, ongoing real-world review (will update over time)Climbing Gear ReviewsWillamRJun 5, 2015
re: Gunks AAC campground update?Eastern StatesWillamRMay 14, 2015
re: Summer weekday partner!!!Eastern StatesWillamRMay 4, 2015
re: stinky climbing shoes? I've found a solution!!Climbing Gear DiscussionWillamRMay 1, 2015
re: Buying first rackTrad ClimbingWillamRMay 1, 2015
re: Summer weekday partner!!!Eastern StatesWillamRMay 1, 2015
re: Metolius Supercam in the ADKsEastern StatesWillamRApr 22, 2015
re: Gunks AAC campground update?Eastern StatesWillamRApr 11, 2015
re: Faster rappelling in the GunksEastern StatesWillamRApr 9, 2015
re: Dacks, VT, NH, Gunks weekday partnersEastern and Southern StatesWillamRApr 8, 2015
re: Gregory or OspreyClimbing Gear DiscussionWillamRApr 8, 2015
re: Gunks partner 4/6 or other nice daysEastern and Southern StatesWillamRMar 24, 2015
re: Gunks partner 4/6 or other nice daysEastern and Southern StatesWillamRMar 24, 2015
re: Gunks partner 4/6 or other nice daysEastern and Southern StatesWillamRMar 24, 2015
re: New Alpinism + Rock Prodigy? Training ForumWillamRMar 19, 2015
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