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Member Since: Nov 15, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Will S


Point Rank: # 507
Total Points: 1,217
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
53 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Will S been climbing?










Contributions


All 1970 | Routes 56 | Areas 4 | Photos 62 | Page Improvements | Comments 287 | Posts 958 | Stars 445 | Ratings 158
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Pud Saddler Rock : Three Men and a Baby (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: Will S When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Is that Da Simpleton in a construction hardhat belaying?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : ... : Bates Problem (V4)
By: Will S When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: Doesn't see much traffic because it feels really sandbagged for V4 and is tweaky/thin and a tad awkward on the first moves. Being tall helps.


Location: GA : Rocktown : Asphalt Boulders : Golden Showers (V4-5) : Photo
By: Will S When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: It's Sandstone. Bullet hard, amazing sandstone. So wild to see this stuff like 22+ years after we were going in there pre-crashpad days when you might have a scrap of carpet to wipe your shoes on, nobody had ever heard of crash pads and the bouldering explosion was another 5-8 years away.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : The Sickle (5.10c) : Photo
By: Will S When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: You forgot to turn off the tilt-shift setting.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: Will S When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Cool shot, caught my eye only to blow it up and say "hey, I know dat guy".


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Will S When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: Great shot...lighting, facial expression, this one really works. One day she is gonna break out this pic and tell the grandkids "now THIS is a deltoid"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - East Face : The Persian Room (5.13a)
By: Will S When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: Heard from a friend last night that the fixed stopperhead pulled out on him a week or two ago. No big deal, you can easily put in a directional right below where the stopperhead was (about a foot down, orange TCU).


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Photo
By: Will S When: Feb 28, 2013

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Comments: Great shot, I'd have that on my wall if I'd taken it.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Left) : ... : Photo
By: Will S When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: Aha! It's hard to keep all that choss straight in my little pea brain.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Left) : ... : Photo
By: Will S When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: Hmm, I don't even remember this route...but that is indeed me. Chris, is this that dirty pile I broke holds on and whipped?


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Right) : Pleasure Dome (5.10b)
By: Will S When: Feb 11, 2013

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Comments: Super-contrived squeeze job that wanders all over to remain at the rating. Crosses the 5.7 route (which starts to the right), but it's not completely obvious where to cross as the bolt lines are very close together for a ways.

Rock quality is good...which is about the only good thing about this one. Not even really functional as a warmup. Skip this one and move on to something better.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock : Crescent Wrench (5.10d)
By: Will S When: Dec 13, 2012

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Comments: Too much beta alert: Recommend multiple 1" pieces (i.e. 2x orange metolius tcus are nice to have). I've led this a couple of times (after having followed it previously), and while the tech crux is about midway, the redpoint crux is probably the last move going left before the finishing jug. What makes this kind of hard for the grade is that the pro takes a little work to place from less than restful positions and isn't always the most inspiring (adequate, though). For such a short route, by the ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Turtle Rock : ... : Satanic Mechanic (5.12a/b)
By: Will S When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: This route presents a dilemma: try to clip mid crux move, or pull through then clip. The fall isn't the best if you don't clip, with a risk of hitting the lower angle stuff below, but if you aren't tall it's very hard (impossible for me) to clip before committing. Once you've pulled the move and have the bolt clipped, a couple more hard moves on thin edges lead to easier climbing to the anchor. In any case, have an aware belayer.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Hidden Cliff : Bikini Whale (5.12b)
By: Will S When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: The tech/power crux low on this route is significantly harder than something like Satanic Mechanic. I'd call the crux alone on the hard side of V5 and the route overall 12b/c. Maybe easier for tall folks. Second what Muff said about the stickclip...getting to the first bolt is a thin slab move to all out huck for people sub-5'10 or so. Fantastic climbing, exciting in the upper half with widely spaced bolts and pump inducing moves.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : ... : Bruce Lee (V8)
By: Will S When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: "Juancho", I posted the comment because the entry is incomplete and has little to no useful information. If you are going to enter routes/problems, it is incumbent on you to provide the best information possible. Otherwise the database is subpar. This entry would do nothing to help you locate this problem.

When I enter new routes/problems, I attempt to provide the best information possible. I expect others to do the same in the spirit of building the best database possible.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : ... : Torque Spanner (V8)
By: Will S When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: Very hard for shorter people, definitely a height-dependent rating. Tall people don't even have to deal with holding the swing, as they can keep the heel/toe cam until on the good hold, shorter folks will have issues from the very first move which is a desperate/long chuck to the first sloper.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : ... : The Force (V9)
By: Will S When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: The hold Jon is talking about is the first hold out left after the starting matched hold. Many people use this hold when doing Thriller too, but it wasn't used on the FA of Thriller (but doesn't really make Thriller any easier though).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : ... : King Cobra (V8 R)
By: Will S When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: Fantastic and classic. Crux is the start to getting stood up in the corner with your left foot on the good horn. From there it's just technical. Don't think this deserves an "R" either, it's a flat landing and you are into jugs by the time your feet are about 10' up.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : ... : Bruce Lee (V8)
By: Will S When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: Did you post this just to put up yet another video of yourself? How about some location beta and other pertinent details? This entry is basically useless if you don't already know where to find the problem.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11)
By: Will S When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: Gear beta:

P3: The pin that protects most of the business is in really, really bad shape. One half of the eye is broken off/gone and the other half is cracked. If aiding, no problem there is gear available next to it. If free climbing that placement is a crucial hand hold. I whipped onto this pin, and it held, but it's a timebomb. There is currently a fixed wire at the end of the roof, and a blown wire next to it with some hinky rigging on it.

P5: Take offset/hybrid aliens from yellow/green to... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Left Ski Track (5.11a)
By: Will S When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: The #4 (Red) TCU beta in comments above is spot on, I've fallen on it. Old style #4 camalot (purple) is also bomber next to the fin, I imagine a new #5 would also be fine. The pro is not totally straightforward, but it is sufficient and solid, no reason to be taking groundfalls on this.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Price of Fear (5.10c)
By: Will S When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: Very fun pitch with cool position, pretty easy for 10c Idyllwild slab, with pro right where you need it. If this is near your limit, don't let the rating dissuade you.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : North Face : Peer Pressure (5.10a)
By: Will S When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: Unlike the Suicide slab routes that have lots of dime edges, this is mainly friction bump surfing. Not difficult if you believe your rubber will stick and sufficiently protected, but still not a route I'd want to fall on.


Location: GA : Metro-Atlanta Area : Allenbrook : Afterburner (5.11a)
By: Will S When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: No "huge lunge or dyno" required really. I remember getting a calf lock/toe cam using a calf on the corner of the roof and basically doing a situp on it, then bumping off an intermediate to a jug.
The rest of it is just a jug haul on buckets.

There is a full-on no hands halfway out the roof by hookin a leg over each of the two big flake like features.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Short Cake Rocks : ... : Piece of Cake (5.13a)
By: Will S When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: Blatantly chipped. Too bad really, it's good rock and a very cool feature.


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