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Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Hone Stone : Traversing Arete aka Peacef... (V6-7)
By: Will Anglin When: Dec 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harder than V7.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Baby Face / Middle Wall : Question of Balance (5.11)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just re-did this and I take back my run-out comment. Solid gear throughout.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Cure For The Common Crimp (5.13a)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful of loose rock, I pulled off a small crimp gaston and some foot holds broke.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion, the first 10ft of finger crack off the first belay (above the small section of OW) was the crux.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Sunshine (5.10a)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very cool route! A fairly dangerous tip-toe to the first bolt, be solid at the grade.
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Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Hone Stone : Atomic Tick Fever (V7)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stand start is around V7. The sit start begins on a jug near the ground and makes a cross to a desprate crimper, then climbs into the stand start, this is V10.
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Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Joint Boulder : Longshot (V8)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably V7. The holds on the face are not very easy, and the final move is pretty committing.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Streaked Wall : Tale of the Scorpion (5.10a A3+)
By: Will Anglin When: Oct 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there someplace I can download a topo from? Maybe a more detaled approach and descent description?
why beware thanksgiving?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Buddha's Belly Wall
By: Will Anglin When: Aug 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The huge softball hold on Buddha's belly and Ramyana broke off and hit me in the head.
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Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : High Times : Center el Skyland (V4-5)
By: Will Anglin When: Jul 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: great problem, probably V5. one of the flakes up higher seems pretty hollow, just so you know, or maybe I'm seeing things :)
-Will
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : Cake Walk (5.10- X)
By: Will Anglin When: Jul 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the encouragement Scott, I appreciate it :)
Will
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Little Finger aka Penis Roc... : Little Finger aka Penis Roc... (5.10c)
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It really is pretty well protected with just the drilled angle. If you like it spicy do it up in the style of the first ascent, really gives you an appreciation for what these guys were doing back in the day without newest Five Sportiva shoes velcro-zip-laced to their footsies :)
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : Cake Walk (5.10- X)
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sent this by accident. Someone pointed out the Jackal chains to me a few weeks before and I went to try it and just figured it went straight up. It doesn't.... but 5.7 and 5.10 X are pretty much the same thing right?
:)
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Gun Wall (aka Perot Wall)
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are some great routes on this wall that tend to get overlooked because of the proximity to the Colosseum. If you get bored at Orange Oswald Check this wall out! Bring a stick clip if you're queasy.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great write up, Thanks for putting so much time into this.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Christine's Dream (5.12)
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel like this is solid at the 5.12 grade. Fantastic route Phil, definitely a classic!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : Double Time at Sue's Place (5.12)
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't feel like "Bad Ass" is a strong enough adjective for the first ascent of this thing...You all were nuts!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : Welcome to China (5.12a)
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, I had this mixed up with Double Time At Sue's.
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Location: Will Anglin : Stuff : Photo
By: Will Anglin When: Mar 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I ordered some bigger balls, but i don't think they will get here till late April :)
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Sasafrass (5.10a)
By: Will Anglin When: Dec 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the most fun climbs at Taylor. Pulling through the last section of crack over the bulge is so good!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Beginner's Slab : Turtle Back Crack (5.7)
By: Will Anglin When: Dec 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: MMmmmm... flaky!
Put up a description already Coleyman!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : God's Crag : Creamy Salmon Wall
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess it's because of the color?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pick up the new guidebook at Rock and Roll Sports. First true guide for the area.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Baby Face / Middle Wall : Question of Balance (5.11)
By: Will Anglin When: Oct 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic route! Thin, Balancy, some tricky pro, and a tad runout at the crux. A route that definitely tested my mental game :)
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Left Hand : Left Hand Crack (5.8)
By: Will Anglin When: Oct 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love the 5.8 rating. It is a sequence dependent route for sure, and tricky at that. Oldschool ratings are part of the history of the area. 5.8, 5.9, or even 5.10, It is still one of the most classic routes in the Gunnison valley.
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