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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's good, I was hoping no one would get offended by us putting names to things. Definitely not trying to step on anyone's toes. We do, however, want to respect the original names y'all used (if you did name them), to preserve the history.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : Quarter Inch Master Area : Jaws Arete (V6)
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sit has been done before?
If you are referring to the stand start, we figured it had been done long before us. Do you recall the original name?
We figure pretty much everything obvious, accessible, moderate, and of good quality was done decades ago, even if we are now just rediscovering it.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hartmans is definitely receiving a lot more attention as of late. Since there is little to no record of past bouldering first ascents, most people just give things names so they are easier to refer to. No insult to the older generation intended. If anyone has any more information about the names or FAs of any boulder problems, please let me know and I will update the routes I have added.
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Location: CO : Mountain Project iPhone/And...
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: AWESOME!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Atlantis (5.11 PG13)
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doesn't hold a candle to the Scenic Cruise. If you like peg, traversing, and oddly placed bolts...then this is the route for you!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : North Bank : North Bank Upper : Stack Factor (5.12c PG13)
By: Will Anglin When: Mar 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stack Factor, 5.12b.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : North Bank : North Bank Middle : Bigger's Bag (5.10)
By: Will Anglin When: Mar 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bigger's Bag, 5.10a.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : North Bank : North Bank Middle : Uncle Fester (5.10c)
By: Will Anglin When: Mar 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Uncle Fester, 5.10c.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : North Bank : North Bank Middle : Dogface (5.9)
By: Will Anglin When: Mar 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going left around the roof is Dogface, 5.9. Straight through the roof is Shamrock, 5.10a
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Bottom Feeder (5.13a)
By: Will Anglin When: Feb 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel like this route is just as hard as My Generation (which I think is .13a). My Generation has multiple cruxes, where on Bottom Feeder, after you stick the crux 2-finger pocket by bolt 3, you can pretty much check out for the rest of the route.
Both routes are great!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Gym Arete Direct (5.12c)
By: Will Anglin When: Feb 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left handed side-pull, by the second bolt, cracked and feels a bit loose now and may break. It is easy to bypass however, and doesn't really make it any harder.
As far as the grade, definitely not .12d, pretty benchmark for .12c
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : My Generation (5.12d)
By: Will Anglin When: Jan 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I felt like this was pretty similar to some of the other .13a's at Shelf.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Willow Creek : Roadside Boulder : The World is (Still) Your B... (V10+)
By: Will Anglin When: Jan 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two crux holds have broken off of this climb. It is most definitely harder now, but the problem is also significantly less cool. The "new" holds seem like they are going to break off, too.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : The Stash : Cool Hand Luce (V5 R)
By: Will Anglin When: Sep 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: To my knowledge only one hold has broken, but the problem held at the same grade. The crimps are bomber, but the top out is loose, which is a little scary. It'll clean off.
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Location: Lost and Found : Accident & left gear on Bre... : Photo
By: Will Anglin When: Sep 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok, so that looks like it hurt. But that is AWESOME! I hope you heal up quick!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon
By: Will Anglin When: Aug 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back in Gunnison for a few days after having been gone most of the summer, I am surprised to find even more new bolts on First Buttress. Now there is a 2 bolt anchor on Guanos Dias.... Who is drilling all these new bolts?! Are they really necessary?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : Quarter Inch Master Area : Jaws Arete (V6)
By: Will Anglin When: Aug 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The stand start has been done, though I am not sure of the first-ascentionist or original name. The sit-start has seen attempts but never a send.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Would September be too late to climb the Hulk? What temps could be somewhat expected?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is called the "Donkey Head Traverse" The Low start is V5-ish and the High start (matched on the cool crimper rail) is V4-ish.
EDIT: I just added the route.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Kachina Wings (5.10+)
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is kinda like Journey Home's ugly sister, the one who was in the marching band, yup, that one. Heavy on the hand sizes. An old style #5 is a nice piece to have.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Colorado Welcome Party (5.11 R)
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bomber blue Alien fits where the heads were, definitely takes the mental sting out of the mantle (I thought the mantle was easier than .10d).
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Colorado Welcome Party (5.11 R)
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the last bolt on the traverse do you keep going right, then climb the shallow, left-facing corner? or do you climb up higher and then intercept the shallow corner higher up? What is the gear like between the last bolt and the belay anchor?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is absolutely R/X. To downplay it anymore than that seems irresponsible. JH is, however, one of the best rock climbs I've ever had the pleasure to get on.
-Will
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : White Lightning Area : White Lightning (V3)
By: Will Anglin When: May 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: SO GOOD! Sit start goes at V6 ish, One of the best problems at Hartmans!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : The Far Side : ... : Photo
By: Will Anglin When: May 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: NAME UPDATE:
"Surgery and Haircuts" is actually called "Jenny".
"Candy Rot" is actually called "Magic Shoes".
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