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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Area 51 : Freak (V10)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You are in Joe's Valley! Why climb polished lowball nonsense when there are plenty of beautiful lines on perfect rock?
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Area 51 : Black Lung (V13)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know what left foot Ben used on the FA? Also, did he pinch the right start hold like a pocket, or did he gaston the crimpy part of it?
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Right Sign Area : Beyond Life (Sit) (V12)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...and I thought Beyond Life couldn't get any cooler. Easily one of my favorite boulder problems of all time.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Real Lost Canyon : The Corridor : Widowmaker : Trundle Master (V4 R)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware the dirt/lichen/loose rock on top of the boulder. A fall would end your season.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Real Lost Canyon
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is a short video of some classic problems in RLC:
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Real Lost Canyon : The Damocles Boulders : The Sword (V8)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: More sustained than The Plague but bigger holds and shouldery moves.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Grand Ol' Opry (5.14c)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe Ben Spannuth also sent.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Taylor Canyon Bouldering : Graveyard Boulders : ... : Stigmata (V11)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way harder than any V10 I have done. I worked the problem for almost 3 years before the send. It could be harder than V11, but I haven't ever tried a V12 and I've never really worked on a V11 before either.
Edit: Having sent more problems around this range, I think Stigmata could be V12.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : The Stash : The Contortionist (V8+)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem is hard to grade. It is really only 3 moves. I thought the first move was pretty hard. It is a pretty huge lock-off to a really bad sloper, Hand heel matching is pretty awkward, even for me, and I have been called "weirdly flexible". Without that heel hook the problem would be much much harder. The real difficulty is sticking and then controlling the left hand sloper while you fiddle around with the feet.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : Quarter Inch Master Area : Rimjob (V7-8)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is borderline V8/9. It only took me 2 tries. Definitely condition dependent.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Real Lost Canyon : The Damocles Boulders : The Plague (V9)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could be V8 or V9. It seems about as hard or maybe harder than Worst Case Scenario at Joe's, But most people call that soft V9. It doesn't feel 2 grades easier than Beyond Life though, which has been called solid/hard V10.
More ascents should even it out.
EDIT: I went back and sent it again and got some more people on it. I feel pretty confident with V9.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha, I don't know about "seasoned", but Caldiero's new guide came out recently, it is pretty easy to follow and It has most of the newer problems listed.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley
By: Will Anglin When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Prime sending temps Kegan! Bummer our trip times aren't going to overlap.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Spring Creek : Porkchop Wall : HAM (5.11)
By: Will Anglin When: Sep 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was the first route I climbed in Spring Creek, dirty but kinda fun.
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Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : Supernatural Boulder
By: Will Anglin When: Sep 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's the story for the arete to the left of Supernatural. I've heard it called the "Wilder Arete".
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Gate View Canyon
By: Will Anglin When: Aug 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: All of the ones I added are new, and there are a few more. There are other routes that seem like they've been there for a while, but I haven't found anyone who knows what they are or who put them up. Some of the most splitter granite cracks I have ever seen are at the Crack Haus Wall.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : Kill Hill Bouldering Area : ... : Plated Nickels (V3-)
By: Will Anglin When: Aug 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not trying to bust your bubble or anything, but this problem has been around for a very long time. It is a pretty safe bet to assume anything convenient you find at Hartmans was done decades ago.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : The Colosseum : Reckless Abandon (5.12b)
By: Will Anglin When: Jul 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't traverse wide left to avoid the crux or the grade is considerably lower.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Tiger Wall
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Many of the bolts on the Tiger Wall could use a little wrench love. If anyone has a torque wrench, feel free to bring it next time you visit the wall. Otherwise, I'll do it when I get back in August.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Man Size : Dyno (V4)
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can be done statically with relative ease if you are able to get a left heel hook.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Riverside Boulders : Feels Like Grit (V8)
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you can't do it, it feels like V8. If you can do it it feels like V5. I started on the right (downriver) side of the boulder and traversed low and left across the face to the Feels Like Grit start and then climbed it. It is a fun variation to do if you get bored and enjoy playing on slab.
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Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Joint Boulder : Filth Pig (V6)
By: Will Anglin When: Jun 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: With 5 or so good pads and a few good spotters, it's not too bad. It is darn tall though.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : The Other Place : Low Brow (5.12a)
By: Will Anglin When: May 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful route. Many thanks to the route equipper for picking such a unique line, not just bolting straight up. One of the best .12s anywhere in The New.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : Quarter Inch Master Area : Rimjob (V7-8)
By: Will Anglin When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice send, Caleb! What's it called?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Best Crack Wall : Best Crack (5.10a)
By: Will Anglin When: May 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolted route just to the right is a project, probably .13a-ish.
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