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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Super Mario Boulder : European Vacation (5.12b)
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought this was pretty easy for the grade. The business is over in the first 4 moves. Then there are plenty of places to shake on your way to the top.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Super Mario Boulder : Tubin' Dudes (5.13b)
By: Will Anglin When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: AMAZING ROUTE. Every hold is interesting and every move is awesome. The deadpoint might take a few tries to get, but it is probably only a V4/5 move. I thought the V6+ roof was the crux.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : The Death Scream Area (aka ... : Death Scream (V10)
By: Will Anglin When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thats how I did it too. Threw a right toe hook up, matched toe hooks, did a 360, then switched back to my hands. I never thought I would do a move like that outside. Congratulations on the send!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Taylor Canyon Bouldering : Graveyard Boulders : ... : Stigmata (V11)
By: Will Anglin When: Nov 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My friend Caleb Justice got the 2nd ascent. I know some others have been working on in, but I haven't heard of any sends. The grade is still not concrete.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : Toxic Hueco Area : White Trash (5.13a)
By: Will Anglin When: Oct 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great moves, great rock. Wish it was longer. I guess a bolt was added, because there was no runout at the end.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : Toxic Hueco Area : Toxic Hueco (5.11d)
By: Will Anglin When: Oct 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Outrageously good.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Singapore Sling (5.10b)
By: Will Anglin When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeeze...that was pretty harsh.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Trilogy (5.12a R)
By: Will Anglin When: May 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I definitely wouldn't want to fall onto those heads...or the pin up higher (although the pin might actually hold). P1&2 are some of my favorite pitches in the canyon. They climb beautifully on great rock with awesome exposure, and P1 has a perfect balance of "spice" and difficulty.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Cassandra (5.13a)
By: Will Anglin When: May 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^ manufactured routes = lamesauce.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Local's Route (5.11+ R)
By: Will Anglin When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty line!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : The Beach : Apricot Squeeze (V4-)
By: Will Anglin When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem is REALLY fun. Very cool moves and holds.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Project Wall : Cobra Strike (5.14b)
By: Will Anglin When: May 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First the cobra, then the mongoose....
Senor Spannuth gets it done!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Atlantis (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: Will Anglin When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the worst pitches of rock climbing I have ever done. I am not sure there is a graceful way to menuver through this section.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : Kill Hill Bouldering Area : Duck Boulder
By: Will Anglin When: Mar 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the Duck Boulder (there is a big flake on it shaped like a duck!). As far as I know, there are 3-4 problems on this one. One is a traverse from the right side to the left (staying low) V4 maybe? Then 2 different ones start under the steep section. One goes straight out and the other veers left. The boulder peeking in to the left part of this picture has a really cool V5-ish thing that sit starts down and left on crimps, traverses right, and then climbs up. I don't know whether the indivi... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : Kill Hill Bouldering Area : ... : Y-Crack (V1-2)
By: Will Anglin When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As far as I know this is just called Y-Crack.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Narcissus Cave : Narcissus Direct (5.12d) : Photo (Copy)
By: Will Anglin When: Mar 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Read the caption. He's not saying that the guy in the picture is on the direct start.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Project Wall : Cobra Strike (5.14b)
By: Will Anglin When: Mar 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stuck the lip move from the ground once, but fell going to the jug. I could get to the last move on every redpoint go. Then I tore my A4 pulley on the low crux. I am graduating and will probably never climb the route again. Happy hunting everyone, the FA is still up for grabs.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Real Lost Canyon : The Corridor : Widowmaker : Trundle Master (V4 R)
By: Will Anglin When: Feb 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha, yeah, I gave it the R because of the height and the landing. I was freaking out when you were doing the top, because I couldn't spot you away from that sharp boulder! I'm glad that hold at the lip didn't break. Way to keep it together for the send!
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Location: PA : Governor Stable : Breadloaf & Immediate Vicin... : Cobra (V5)
By: Will Anglin When: Feb 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my all time favorite boulder problems.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Willow Creek : Roadside Boulder : The World is (Still) Your B... (V10+)
By: Will Anglin When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Caleb and I started trying this again.... It is much harder than it used to be (it was V9). One of the crimps is worse, and one hold fell off entirely. It is still possible though. The new sequence still climbs very well, and it doesn't seem like it will break again.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Cash in the Vault (5.13a)
By: Will Anglin When: Jan 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left wall and the crack are off. You have to stay on the face the whole way. I guess you don't HAVE to, but If you want to do this route....
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R) : Photo
By: Will Anglin When: Jan 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha, nice Andy! The rock in the Black is hands down my favorite. The cracks are intricate as opposed to mindless jamming and the face climbing is superb; technical and powerful. Trouble is, those face pitches tend to be at least R rated....
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : Puppy Chow Area : The Greatest Show On Earth (5.13a)
By: Will Anglin When: Dec 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the single most beautiful pitch of trad climbing I have ever seen.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : Quarter Inch Master Area : Rimjob (V7-8)
By: Will Anglin When: Dec 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Duffy did end up sending that. Not sure how hard (I haven't tried it), but it sure is pretty!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : Quarter Inch Master Area : Rimjob (V7-8)
By: Will Anglin When: Dec 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha, no worries, Kipp! Didn't take it that way at all. Most of us are operating under the assumption that everything we have done could very well have been sent decades ago. I always appreciate info. I would totally switch you to the FA (you being the earliest ascent we now know of), but someone out of the valley added this route, so I can't (perhaps and admin could change that?). If you have anymore FA info and such, let me know. This really is a awesome problem, really unique, great send!
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