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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: westy When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well...Did the route and glads its over. I love those desert ratings... Crazy chimney fest is the best to describe it. I led the crux and I guess I was in the moment, because I clipped the bolt with a sewn sling and made myself fit into the armpit of hell. After using my toes to move myself bit by bit, I popped out just below the anchors. I didnt even know I passed the crux. But in fair opinion, this route is a good one, it runs you out and wears you down. Not for the faint hearted. Thou... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain
By: westy When: Aug 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stay high (out of the valley) and it'll be alright. Denise is right with the poor quality of rock where we were. The actual location in reference to Palisade was the false summit face right of Palisade. We were there for a different type of climbing. From the dam, it's a long venture to get to the actual possibility of route climbing.
I agree Allen. There is an extreme amount of ivy in the Big T.
Climb fast, safe and Fun!
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Pine Vu : Don't Damn It (5.7 PG13)
By: westy When: Jul 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally felt it was over protected. And the last bolt above the belay station is really not neccessary. Overall fun and quick.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Greatest Route (5.8)
By: westy When: Jul 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not what I expected. The route was good. Felt the roofs were easier than expected. In fact they were the fun parts when given the whole perspective of this route. The route itself was a bit sketchy due to the runouts, lack of pro, and the pendelum prone traverse. Why I rated it a 5.8+R for the leader.
The beta was good.
If you are going to look for this route, location beta is that when you get to a trail marker post right next to a group of 6 pines ((one looks like a slingshot(denises accor... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Fable : East of Eden (5.9)
By: westy When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The misconception is that it's easier after the crux roof, maybe not as hard but still requires an extended amount of focus and sustainable strength for the next 100'. The pro is selective, rest stops are there but not given away. Keep in mind that the river is right next to you and conversation / commands are muffled at best. Did this route with Denise and Chad as a group of three. The anchors are solid and there is enough room, although the stance is not all that comfortable. We will be b... more >>
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Location: MI : Marquette : Marquette Mtn
By: westy When: Jun 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty much is good for all rates. Denise and I did a crack with a roof on a trad lead. Rock is solid but weeps with water in spots. Not much for giving beta on this one due to the fact we had no time to actually beta the route ourselves. But contact the local climbing shop and talk to them...bigtime help there.
Rock varies from 30ft to 100 ft of climbing with variations of slab, crack, roof, aretes I'd say. I would go back and do it again on the next trip out.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : The Checkerboard Wall : The Maiden Voyage aka The R... (5.9)
By: westy When: Jun 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did it in four pitches....
Had two 70m ropes with us, we were unaware of the two raps just to get to the base of the climb had ropes there already. FYI...unsure when and how long the have been up. They are static ropes and seem to be alright, but ya never know. So be advised that you might want to take two ropes to rap. The route is as explained except that in the Colorado Climbing book it says that there is another last pitch before the final on 4th class rock. At the oak platform, we b... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Friendship 7 Wall : Friendship Seven (5.11a)
By: westy When: Sep 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have climbed the left side twice now. Ever time it sends me into the crap factor because of the Vertice and slight lean back. I have been dying to know the name of this route. A 5.9 sport? I would like someone to verify if possible. Either way, it is definitely something to do. I am woking on hitting the right side and actually taking the Friendship 7.
Thanks for the great routes, people.
Todd
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Location: westy : Moab..... Ancient art : Photo
By: westy When: Sep 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ancient Art, Top out. Great view from up there.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Sunshine Wall
By: westy When: Jun 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note.....after the "T" go right for about 1.5 miles and take the second left turn,,,,,,caution,,,,,you need a 4 x 4 for this or stop short becuase you will get stuck in the soft sand. The rock is brown, white and red just like the neopolitan ice cream.
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