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Me at the good rest on Doggie Do


Member Since: Mar 14, 2010
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Weston L


Point Rank: # 980
Total Points: 685
Last Year: 211
Last 30 Days: 166
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Weston L been climbing?










Contributions


All 1819 | Routes 25 | Areas 5 | Photos 51 | Page Improvements | Comments 105 | Posts 349 | Stars 673 | Ratings 611
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10) : Photo
By: Weston L When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Immediate left of Triassic? That is Sandblast....a 10- Paul Van Betten-Nick Nordblom route. Appears to be someone on one of the sets of anchors for Sand Felipe nearby.

Ixtlan is on the far left margin of the photo that goes through the roof.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Weston L When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: Bolt at the crux on P2 is loose in the hole and in need of replacement. It wiggled in the hole and my partner was able to pull it out a bit while following.


Location: Matt Kuehl : Profile Photos : Photo
By: Weston L When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: Where's that 23 jersey? Jordan!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Mavericks (5.11+)
By: Weston L When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: Fun route and a nice addition to the cliff. Lots of variety in movement and angle with some suspect holds that will clean off with time. Have your belayer wear a helmet, I almost got beaned in the head with a rock when my partner was following it.

Also, definitely bring the long slings (as mentioned in the description) for the middle section. I spaced on that until I had realized that this was that route I was reading about that suggested that. Doh!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Middle Fork of Taylor : Astrolizard (5.11) : Photo
By: Weston L When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: what does Bad Fish go at? Got topo?


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10) : Photo
By: Weston L When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Please do not climb obviously wet sandstone...it not only poses a risk to your own safety but you can easily break holds on the weakened sandstone and render the route very different for subsequent parties.


Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Weston L When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: Creating a false dichotomy regarding the naming convention of climbing areas is in fact esoteric and frivilous. However, being bored....I'll bite...

NPS refers to Tuolumne Meadows as....you guessed it, Tuolumne Meadows.

NPS refers to City of Rocks National Reserve as....you guessed it, City of Rocks

NPS refers to the section of Joshua Tree National Park (not Joshua Trees National Park) you refer to as "Wonderland of Rocks."

Texas State Parks refers to Hueco Tanks as Hueco Tanks State Park &... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Grindrite (5.11b)
By: Weston L When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: If you are short (I'm about 5'6/5'7 and have short arms and legs), a dynamic move involving the two crimps at the crux, left edge, and a dish inside of the A-frame roof thing will get you to that triangular jug. I also have a low IQ, so there is probably a far more technical way to execute the move, but after endless tries that is what worked for me.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag : Umayyad Caliphate (5.10a)
By: Weston L When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Make sure the belayer wears a helmet for this one. Chunks still blowing off of this one, particularly below the crux. Fantastic movement but it's gotta get cleaned up


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag : Sultans and Viziers (5.9)
By: Weston L When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Crunchy rock, fun movement and maybe a move at the grade. Good warmup!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Gemstone Gully : Fear and Loathing (5.10+)
By: Weston L When: Dec 25, 2014

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Comments: Fantastic route with a significant approach. Heed the advice about extra cams, unless yer a hardman...in which case....hardman can...

RE: the approach...there are two gullies that you can wander into as the "Upper Gemstone Approach" gully chokes off and offers its first two forks:

Option #1 is the left of the two once you are in the "Upper Gemstone Approach" gully. This one will be cairned, includes a significant amount of scrambling, and IMO was more of an undertaking than the approac... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Lizard Locks (5.11)
By: Weston L When: Nov 23, 2014

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Comments: Fantastic climb, mostly .3-.75 camaalots, single to 3 camalot.

FYI, anchor on this one could definitely use some improving. Currently it consists of a fixed stopper, a rusty old bolt with matching rusty hanger, & a star dryvin bolt.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Middle Fork of Taylor : Astrolizard (5.11)
By: Weston L When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Looks absolutely fantastic, definitely just moved it to the top of my to-do list.

Please post a topo soon...might try to make a trip out this season to do this.

Does this get all day sun? I see it faces south, and the pics look sunny, but never having climbed in the Kolob, I am unsure of potential obstructions, etc.

Thanks!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Middle Fork of Taylor
By: Weston L When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: Link relative to closure is dead. Any further word on this? Astrolizard looks unreal good and is now on my very short list. Let me know.

Thanks,

W


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F - first pitch (5.9) (5.9)
By: Weston L When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: I respectfully disagree with Andy's grade assessment on this first pitch. Difficulty feels closer to a Gin Ricky or Wholesome Fullback than Nadia's Nine or any of the .10a I have climbed on the Velvet Wall...but hey, what's in a grade? ;-)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Weston L When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: The 4th pitch really is fantastic. Don't be scared by all of the babble about the diving board...tread carefully and be rewarded with glory above. Enjoy and be safe!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Lamb Canyon Wall : Moment of Zen (5.11a)
By: Weston L When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 2 is absolutely fantastic. Sustained, technical, and engaging from start to finish. About the gear through the crux...bring the absolute smallest stuff you can find. The gear is very small but solid.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Spark Plug (5.10-)
By: Weston L When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Triples in .3/.4 and double rack to 1" would be a solid suggestion as far as gear is concerned. Handren suggests to 3, didn't place anything bigger than a single #1. Placed one, maybe two .75's, certainly not three. Quality route with some stiff pulls throughout. Fantastic!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Al's Garage : Triple Delight (5.10b)
By: Weston L When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: The bolting on this one is confounding. The sixth bolt (I believe) is in a position such that if you blew it there, you would bounce off of a slab. Seventh bolt is quite difficult to clip as well. Moving the sixth bolt 2' higher in the overhanging dihedral would negate the bad fall potential. In addition, one of the bolts (can't recall which) is placed in such a way that the carabiner would be weighted over an edge in the event of a fall. Be solid at the grade. Very fun movement, but don't... more >>


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Sommerset Boulders : West Side : Paleolithic Prowess (V0)
By: Weston L When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Most of the problems have been done out here

Yep.

even though they are not listed its likely this has been climbed a bunch

As mentioned in the OP of this route (perhaps the date of this should have been noted, which if memory serves correct was Fall 2011), the rhino detached flake to this thing was taken off with minimal effort after the dangerous flexing. Prior to cleaning the aforementioned flake, this problem was a finger crack/layback off of a finger crack. Also mentioned i... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a)
By: Weston L When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: LOL, the comments here lead me to believe I'd be going on a poop-tastic voyage on the second pitch. Hardly! Some of the best 5.9/easy 5.10 movement I have done at Red Rock on this pitch. Fantastic route. Single rack to 2"


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Dire Wolf (5.12-)
By: Weston L When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Totally awesome rock climb - fantastic movement, great protection, and a awesome, technical crux.

Gear beta: Basically echoing what everyone else here said, brought a single #4 to protect the relatively easy face climbing out of the wide-looking pod into the section below the crux. Thin thin cams for the crux, and then hero climbing on #3 BD cams to the top.

The fixed 'biner on the anchor is starting to show some signs of wear, so if someone gets up there before me, throw a ne... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Mudterm Area : Critical Cams (5.10)
By: Weston L When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: A fantastic wide romp requiring a decent variety of wide skills. I used a single rack to #6. Wanted to place my big bro, but couldn't find a spot for it, hahaha. The base of the climb is a cool perch to hang out at, as well.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : Red Zinger (5.10+)
By: Weston L When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Pretty damn good! Hollow but seemingly solid features to start with, although that definitely was a surprise to me. Webbing at both rappel stations in good shape as of 1/26/14.

RE the crux...first pitch felt harder for me, but I'm also short...and have a rather low IQ, so YMMV.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: Weston L When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: ^^^Xavier, that is a FACT. Thank you for the replacement work, Adam!


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