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Me at the good rest on Doggie Do


Member Since: Mar 14, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Weston L


Point Rank: # 1,225
Total Points: 474
Last Year: 309
Last 30 Days: 5
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Weston L been climbing?










Contributions


All (1526) | Routes (14) | Areas (2) | Photos (44) | Comments (84) | Posts (282) | Stars (569) | Ratings (531)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Dire Wolf (5.12-)
By: Weston L When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Totally awesome rock climb - fantastic movement, great protection, and a awesome, technical crux.

Gear beta: Basically echoing what everyone else here said, brought a single #4 to protect the relatively easy face climbing out of the wide-looking pod into the section below the crux. Thin thin cams for the crux, and then hero climbing on #3 BD cams to the top.

The fixed 'biner on the anchor is starting to show some signs of wear, so if someone gets up there before me, throw a ne... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Mudterm Area : Critical Cams (5.10)
By: Weston L When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: A fantastic wide romp requiring a decent variety of wide skills. I used a single rack to #6. Wanted to place my big bro, but couldn't find a spot for it, hahaha. The base of the climb is a cool perch to hang out at, as well.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : Red Zinger (5.10+)
By: Weston L When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Pretty damn good! Hollow but seemingly solid features to start with, although that definitely was a surprise to me. Webbing at both rappel stations in good shape as of 1/26/14.

RE the crux...first pitch felt harder for me, but I'm also short...and have a rather low IQ, so YMMV.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: Weston L When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: ^^^Xavier, that is a FACT. Thank you for the replacement work, Adam!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Glitter Gulch (5.11b)
By: Weston L When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: One of the bolts is sticking out of the stone a bit - not an extreme amount, but enough that when I was clipping it, I raised my eyebrow enough it was almost as pumped as my pathetic forearms were.


Also, fantastic climb on good rock with some committing moves if you are short.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag : Manifest Destiny (5.10a)
By: Weston L When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic route on good stone! Climbs more like a route in the canyons than your typical Calico fare. The route flows very well.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Intruder (5.11+)
By: Weston L When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: Wow this thing is incredible. Will take every .3 or .4 you throw at it. Stellar route, definitely one you keep replaying in your head after. Fantastic!

RE: What Andy says below, definitely worthwhile bringing a pair of .5's and I think a single .75, 1, and 2 or 3.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Handbone (5.10b/c)
By: Weston L When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the replacement work, ASCA folks!!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: Weston L When: Nov 27, 2013

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Comments: Killis, I'd be game to help out - if you don't have ASCA glue-ins I'd be willing to chip in for some. This route is super fun!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: Weston L When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: This thing felt harder than comparable .11- sport routes of similar character at RR. Very fun climbing, but still quite difficult.

As far as the condition of the bolts:

Bolt #3 (crux bolt) is a spinner. Final bolt before the anchors is protruding from the rock 1/4"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : Wangerbanger (5.11c)
By: Weston L When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Just to reiterate what everyone else here has said - this thing is awesome. Protects quite well, although there are some flexing/loose blocks in one of the pods but you can easily protect in a horizontal or just man up (which I failed to do) and punch it.

Stellar crack workout through a variety of sizes. Crux was pretty gnarly for me as perfect hands for me are #3 camalots...fun mantle at the end to really tie the whole thing together. Stellar route that felt like something that should... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Handbone (5.10b/c)
By: Weston L When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: About as rad as 60 feet of climbing can get! A bit of a hike to get to, but a cool zone to explore. Stellar climbing on very solid rock.

As far as fixed hardware, the anchor definitely could use some ASCA love. Old homemade-looking hanger on the top bolt, which looks more solid than the quasi-rusted SMC hanger beneath it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cut Your Teeth Crag
By: Weston L When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: An hour and a half?!? Did you walk in from Las Vegas Blvd!? Easy 20-30 min walk


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Have a Beer with Fear (5.11a)
By: Weston L When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Saw a sizeable hold fall off of the upper portion of this route today. Unsure of how much that it has impacted the climb, however, this thing was probably the size of a roofing shingle


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Raid (5.9+)
By: Weston L When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Classic, memorable, and engaging! Definitely been a minute since I had to stay at a stance fiddling nuts around...wait, what?


All jokes aside, this thing is outstanding and very engaging. More trad than rad, but still pretty effin cool. Agree with the Handren guide's 3/3 stars on it. Classic! Had this route been put up a few years later, I would almost expect the name to be Deez Nutz.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : V8 Crack (5.10d)
By: Weston L When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Outstanding route! When you look around at the splitter #1 sized roof, your jaw may in fact hit your belayer - ten cuidado!

Stellar, stellar climb. When I was up there a month or two ago the crowds were too great for West Face or Crack Kingdom, yet this was so good I was pretty satisfied. Five stars!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+) : Photo
By: Weston L When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: layback? no way! stellar, fierce .5 inch jamming section


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Scalawag (5.10) : Photo
By: Weston L When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments:



Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Lone Star (5.11) : Photo
By: Weston L When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments:



Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Chicken Eruptus (5.10 R)
By: Weston L When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Dropped a line on this after work for a TR solo session. WOW. Awesome climbing and unlike a lot of the close-to-the-road cragging in the park, this is more the style of climbing you'll see in the canyons than in the Calico Hills. Engaging, technical climbing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Schwa Area : The Schwa (5.10d)
By: Weston L When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Thin hands at bottom of P2 are crux (.5 and .75 camalots) - cruisy tight fists up higher, and good fists in the flare up higher...like 2 moves that you could offwidth if so desired, but really just a fist crack. 5.9 fists with 10d thin hands.

Leave the big gear at home and just bring as many #4's as you can. I only placed the big stuff I brought because I didn't have enough 4's (only had 2...walked 'em after the plank, yarrrr)...the "straight in #6" is barely that. #4's in ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Schwa Area
By: Weston L When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: To update the approach beta a touch, you continue along the mountain bike trail until a huge pyramidal boulder on your left hand side. Then cross-country steeply and be unhappy, until you look up at the splitter...smile, and continue grunting. It is worth it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Johnny Vegas (5.7)
By: Weston L When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this thing at night on a mid-summer's evening. What a blast that was! Sweet views from the huge ledge between JV and Solar Slab (Mt. Wilson illuminated by the city lights as well as the upper Solar Slab).



As for beta:

Single rack to 3". The ST rack was WAAAY overkill. This is one of the best 5.7's I have climbed anywhere. Red Rock moderate climbing at its finest.

RE: Rapping the route....

If you know what you are doing you will be fine rapping the route - we rapped it at night ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Touch and Go (5.9) : Photo
By: Weston L When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: That thing is SO fun!!!!! Nowhere near as grunty as expected, just fun flare climbing with perfect hand jams in the back! Yeah! Thanks for posting, brought back some memories


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Fools Gold (5.10b)
By: Weston L When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: Bolt in hueco still missing a hanger. If solid at the grade it's not a big deal, almost makes you feel like you're not sport climbing in the corridor for a minute. Wonderful route, a must-do.


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