Comments: Totally awesome rock climb - fantastic movement, great protection, and a awesome, technical crux.
Gear beta: Basically echoing what everyone else here said, brought a single #4 to protect the relatively easy face climbing out of the wide-looking pod into the section below the crux. Thin thin cams for the crux, and then hero climbing on #3 BD cams to the top.
The fixed 'biner on the anchor is starting to show some signs of wear, so if someone gets up there before me, throw a ne... more >>
Comments: A fantastic wide romp requiring a decent variety of wide skills. I used a single rack to #6. Wanted to place my big bro, but couldn't find a spot for it, hahaha. The base of the climb is a cool perch to hang out at, as well.
Comments: One of the bolts is sticking out of the stone a bit - not an extreme amount, but enough that when I was clipping it, I raised my eyebrow enough it was almost as pumped as my pathetic forearms were.
Also, fantastic climb on good rock with some committing moves if you are short.
Comments: Just to reiterate what everyone else here has said - this thing is awesome. Protects quite well, although there are some flexing/loose blocks in one of the pods but you can easily protect in a horizontal or just man up (which I failed to do) and punch it.
Stellar crack workout through a variety of sizes. Crux was pretty gnarly for me as perfect hands for me are #3 camalots...fun mantle at the end to really tie the whole thing together. Stellar route that felt like something that should... more >>
Comments: Classic, memorable, and engaging! Definitely been a minute since I had to stay at a stance fiddling nuts around...wait, what?
All jokes aside, this thing is outstanding and very engaging. More trad than rad, but still pretty effin cool. Agree with the Handren guide's 3/3 stars on it. Classic! Had this route been put up a few years later, I would almost expect the name to be Deez Nutz.
Comments: Dropped a line on this after work for a TR solo session. WOW. Awesome climbing and unlike a lot of the close-to-the-road cragging in the park, this is more the style of climbing you'll see in the canyons than in the Calico Hills. Engaging, technical climbing.
Comments: Thin hands at bottom of P2 are crux (.5 and .75 camalots) - cruisy tight fists up higher, and good fists in the flare up higher...like 2 moves that you could offwidth if so desired, but really just a fist crack. 5.9 fists with 10d thin hands.
Leave the big gear at home and just bring as many #4's as you can. I only placed the big stuff I brought because I didn't have enough 4's (only had 2...walked 'em after the plank, yarrrr)...the "straight in #6" is barely that. #4's in ... more >>
Comments: To update the approach beta a touch, you continue along the mountain bike trail until a huge pyramidal boulder on your left hand side. Then cross-country steeply and be unhappy, until you look up at the splitter...smile, and continue grunting. It is worth it.
Comments: Climbed this thing at night on a mid-summer's evening. What a blast that was! Sweet views from the huge ledge between JV and Solar Slab (Mt. Wilson illuminated by the city lights as well as the upper Solar Slab).
As for beta:
Single rack to 3". The ST rack was WAAAY overkill. This is one of the best 5.7's I have climbed anywhere. Red Rock moderate climbing at its finest.
RE: Rapping the route....
If you know what you are doing you will be fine rapping the route - we rapped it at night ... more >>
Comments: Bolt in hueco still missing a hanger. If solid at the grade it's not a big deal, almost makes you feel like you're not sport climbing in the corridor for a minute. Wonderful route, a must-do.