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Me at the good rest on Doggie Do


Member Since: Mar 14, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Weston L


Point Rank: # 1,258
Total Points: 499
Last Year: 235
Last 30 Days: 3
17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Weston L been climbing?










Contributions


All 1664 | Routes 15 | Areas 2 | Photos 45 | Page Improvements | Comments 94 | Posts 308 | Stars 622 | Ratings 578
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Lizard Locks (5.11)
By: Weston L When: 20 hours ago

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Comments: Fantastic climb, mostly .3-.75 camaalots, single to 3 camalot.

FYI, anchor on this one could definitely use some improving. Currently it consists of a fixed stopper, a rusty old bolt with matching rusty hanger, & a star dryvin bolt.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Middle Fork of Taylor : Astrolizard (5.11+)
By: Weston L When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Looks absolutely fantastic, definitely just moved it to the top of my to-do list.

Please post a topo soon...might try to make a trip out this season to do this.

Does this get all day sun? I see it faces south, and the pics look sunny, but never having climbed in the Kolob, I am unsure of potential obstructions, etc.

Thanks!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Middle Fork of Taylor
By: Weston L When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: Link relative to closure is dead. Any further word on this? Astrolizard looks unreal good and is now on my very short list. Let me know.

Thanks,

W


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F - first pitch (5.9) (5.9)
By: Weston L When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: I respectfully disagree with Andy's grade assessment on this first pitch. Difficulty feels closer to a Gin Ricky or Wholesome Fullback than Nadia's Nine or any of the .10a I have climbed on the Velvet Wall...but hey, what's in a grade? ;-)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Weston L When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: The 4th pitch really is fantastic. Don't be scared by all of the babble about the diving board...tread carefully and be rewarded with glory above. Enjoy and be safe!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Lamb Canyon Wall : Moment of Zen (5.11a)
By: Weston L When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 2 is absolutely fantastic. Sustained, technical, and engaging from start to finish. About the gear through the crux...bring the absolute smallest stuff you can find. The gear is very small but solid.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Spark Plug (5.10-)
By: Weston L When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Triples in .3/.4 and double rack to 1" would be a solid suggestion as far as gear is concerned. Handren suggests to 3, didn't place anything bigger than a single #1. Placed one, maybe two .75's, certainly not three. Quality route with some stiff pulls throughout. Fantastic!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Al's Garage : Triple Delight (5.10b)
By: Weston L When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: The bolting on this one is confounding. The sixth bolt (I believe) is in a position such that if you blew it there, you would bounce off of a slab. Seventh bolt is quite difficult to clip as well. Moving the sixth bolt 2' higher in the overhanging dihedral would negate the bad fall potential. In addition, one of the bolts (can't recall which) is placed in such a way that the carabiner would be weighted over an edge in the event of a fall. Be solid at the grade. Very fun movement, but don't... more >>


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Sommerset Boulders : West Side : Paleolithic Prowess (V0)
By: Weston L When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Most of the problems have been done out here

Yep.

even though they are not listed its likely this has been climbed a bunch

As mentioned in the OP of this route (perhaps the date of this should have been noted, which if memory serves correct was Fall 2011), the rhino detached flake to this thing was taken off with minimal effort after the dangerous flexing. Prior to cleaning the aforementioned flake, this problem was a finger crack/layback off of a finger crack. Also mentioned i... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a)
By: Weston L When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: LOL, the comments here lead me to believe I'd be going on a poop-tastic voyage on the second pitch. Hardly! Some of the best 5.9/easy 5.10 movement I have done at Red Rock on this pitch. Fantastic route. Single rack to 2"


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Dire Wolf (5.12-)
By: Weston L When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Totally awesome rock climb - fantastic movement, great protection, and a awesome, technical crux.

Gear beta: Basically echoing what everyone else here said, brought a single #4 to protect the relatively easy face climbing out of the wide-looking pod into the section below the crux. Thin thin cams for the crux, and then hero climbing on #3 BD cams to the top.

The fixed 'biner on the anchor is starting to show some signs of wear, so if someone gets up there before me, throw a ne... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Mudterm Area : Critical Cams (5.10)
By: Weston L When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: A fantastic wide romp requiring a decent variety of wide skills. I used a single rack to #6. Wanted to place my big bro, but couldn't find a spot for it, hahaha. The base of the climb is a cool perch to hang out at, as well.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : Red Zinger (5.10+)
By: Weston L When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Pretty damn good! Hollow but seemingly solid features to start with, although that definitely was a surprise to me. Webbing at both rappel stations in good shape as of 1/26/14.

RE the crux...first pitch felt harder for me, but I'm also short...and have a rather low IQ, so YMMV.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: Weston L When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: ^^^Xavier, that is a FACT. Thank you for the replacement work, Adam!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Glitter Gulch (5.11b)
By: Weston L When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: One of the bolts is sticking out of the stone a bit - not an extreme amount, but enough that when I was clipping it, I raised my eyebrow enough it was almost as pumped as my pathetic forearms were.


Also, fantastic climb on good rock with some committing moves if you are short.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag : Manifest Destiny (5.10a)
By: Weston L When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic route on good stone! Climbs more like a route in the canyons than your typical Calico fare. The route flows very well.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Intruder (5.11+)
By: Weston L When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: Wow this thing is incredible. Will take every .3 or .4 you throw at it. Stellar route, definitely one you keep replaying in your head after. Fantastic!

RE: What Andy says below, definitely worthwhile bringing a pair of .5's and I think a single .75, 1, and 2 or 3.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Handbone (5.10b/c)
By: Weston L When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the replacement work, ASCA folks!!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: Weston L When: Nov 27, 2013

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Comments: Killis, I'd be game to help out - if you don't have ASCA glue-ins I'd be willing to chip in for some. This route is super fun!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: Weston L When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: This thing felt harder than comparable .11- sport routes of similar character at RR. Very fun climbing, but still quite difficult.

As far as the condition of the bolts:

Bolt #3 (crux bolt) is a spinner. Final bolt before the anchors is protruding from the rock 1/4"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : Wangerbanger (5.11c)
By: Weston L When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Just to reiterate what everyone else here has said - this thing is awesome. Protects quite well, although there are some flexing/loose blocks in one of the pods but you can easily protect in a horizontal or just man up (which I failed to do) and punch it.

Stellar crack workout through a variety of sizes. Crux was pretty gnarly for me as perfect hands for me are #3 camalots...fun mantle at the end to really tie the whole thing together. Stellar route that felt like something that should... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Handbone (5.10b/c)
By: Weston L When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: About as rad as 60 feet of climbing can get! A bit of a hike to get to, but a cool zone to explore. Stellar climbing on very solid rock.

As far as fixed hardware, the anchor definitely could use some ASCA love. Old homemade-looking hanger on the top bolt, which looks more solid than the quasi-rusted SMC hanger beneath it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cut Your Teeth Crag
By: Weston L When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: An hour and a half?!? Did you walk in from Las Vegas Blvd!? Easy 20-30 min walk


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Have a Beer with Fear (5.11a)
By: Weston L When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Saw a sizeable hold fall off of the upper portion of this route today. Unsure of how much that it has impacted the climb, however, this thing was probably the size of a roofing shingle


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Raid (5.9+)
By: Weston L When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Classic, memorable, and engaging! Definitely been a minute since I had to stay at a stance fiddling nuts around...wait, what?


All jokes aside, this thing is outstanding and very engaging. More trad than rad, but still pretty effin cool. Agree with the Handren guide's 3/3 stars on it. Classic! Had this route been put up a few years later, I would almost expect the name to be Deez Nutz.


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