Comments: I respectfully disagree with Andy's grade assessment on this first pitch. Difficulty feels closer to a Gin Ricky or Wholesome Fullback than Nadia's Nine or any of the .10a I have climbed on the Velvet Wall...but hey, what's in a grade? ;-)
Comments: Pitch 2 is absolutely fantastic. Sustained, technical, and engaging from start to finish. About the gear through the crux...bring the absolute smallest stuff you can find. The gear is very small but solid.
Comments: Triples in .3/.4 and double rack to 1" would be a solid suggestion as far as gear is concerned. Handren suggests to 3, didn't place anything bigger than a single #1. Placed one, maybe two .75's, certainly not three. Quality route with some stiff pulls throughout. Fantastic!
Comments: The bolting on this one is confounding. The sixth bolt (I believe) is in a position such that if you blew it there, you would bounce off of a slab. Seventh bolt is quite difficult to clip as well. Moving the sixth bolt 2' higher in the overhanging dihedral would negate the bad fall potential. In addition, one of the bolts (can't recall which) is placed in such a way that the carabiner would be weighted over an edge in the event of a fall. Be solid at the grade. Very fun movement, but don't... more >>
Comments:Most of the problems have been done out here
even though they are not listed its likely this has been climbed a bunch
As mentioned in the OP of this route (perhaps the date of this should have been noted, which if memory serves correct was Fall 2011), the rhino detached flake to this thing was taken off with minimal effort after the dangerous flexing. Prior to cleaning the aforementioned flake, this problem was a finger crack/layback off of a finger crack. Also mentioned i... more >>
Comments: LOL, the comments here lead me to believe I'd be going on a poop-tastic voyage on the second pitch. Hardly! Some of the best 5.9/easy 5.10 movement I have done at Red Rock on this pitch. Fantastic route. Single rack to 2"
Comments: Totally awesome rock climb - fantastic movement, great protection, and a awesome, technical crux.
Gear beta: Basically echoing what everyone else here said, brought a single #4 to protect the relatively easy face climbing out of the wide-looking pod into the section below the crux. Thin thin cams for the crux, and then hero climbing on #3 BD cams to the top.
The fixed 'biner on the anchor is starting to show some signs of wear, so if someone gets up there before me, throw a ne... more >>
Comments: A fantastic wide romp requiring a decent variety of wide skills. I used a single rack to #6. Wanted to place my big bro, but couldn't find a spot for it, hahaha. The base of the climb is a cool perch to hang out at, as well.
Comments: One of the bolts is sticking out of the stone a bit - not an extreme amount, but enough that when I was clipping it, I raised my eyebrow enough it was almost as pumped as my pathetic forearms were.
Also, fantastic climb on good rock with some committing moves if you are short.
Comments: Just to reiterate what everyone else here has said - this thing is awesome. Protects quite well, although there are some flexing/loose blocks in one of the pods but you can easily protect in a horizontal or just man up (which I failed to do) and punch it.
Stellar crack workout through a variety of sizes. Crux was pretty gnarly for me as perfect hands for me are #3 camalots...fun mantle at the end to really tie the whole thing together. Stellar route that felt like something that should... more >>
Comments: Classic, memorable, and engaging! Definitely been a minute since I had to stay at a stance fiddling nuts around...wait, what?
All jokes aside, this thing is outstanding and very engaging. More trad than rad, but still pretty effin cool. Agree with the Handren guide's 3/3 stars on it. Classic! Had this route been put up a few years later, I would almost expect the name to be Deez Nutz.