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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Queen's Face (5.8) : Photo
By: Wes B. When: Jul 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now I get it. Doh
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Queen's Face (5.8) : Photo
By: Wes B. When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Isn't the Queen's Throne to the left of the Queen's Face when looking at the wall?
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Location: IL : Starvard Rock State Park
By: Wes B. When: Jan 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Took a quick recon trip to SRSP, lots of water flowing but no ice to speak of in all the canyons. I will post a couple of photos tomorrow so you can see the sad state of affairs. Very cool area though, it was my first time there.
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Location: IL : Jackson Falls : The Beaver Wall : Mod Squad (5.7)
By: Wes B. When: Oct 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was told this climb named "Mod Squad" by a couple of guys while climbing.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Rescue Route (5.6)
By: Wes B. When: Oct 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure if this is a FA for us, but according to Rick Blair (fellow MPer) and some of his resources, it very well may have been. Apparently the bolts we found were from a rescue in the past. Our route showed no signs of recent passage, but if this is your route, let me know.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - left buttress : Sparky's Cooler 5.7 or 10a (5.7)
By: Wes B. When: May 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed and enjoyed this route today. We climbed it in four pitches as outlined here. I may have placed some bolts in different locations (or added a few more in certain sections), but overall I felt like it was pretty secure. From the top of the 4th pitch we made 4 raps with a 60m rope.
I do agree with Jason on one point . . . I think the name need to be changed to "Sparky's Cooler", because the 5.8 or .10a may create some confusion.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : 60 Degree Slabs
By: Wes B. When: Apr 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both of the routes on MP for this slab are pretty fun, but the approach was difficult and lose. With more traffic (and a better approach), these could be among the best moderates in the BTC. There also appears to be a ton of lines that would make fun moderates on the left side of this slab.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : How to Kill a Bear with You... (5.8+ PG13)
By: Wes B. When: Mar 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route today. We found P1 had 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. P2 had 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Overall a pretty fun route. We thought the crux was after the first bolt on P2. With a 60m rope, you can rap to the ground from the upper belay station.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Face Race (5.7)
By: Wes B. When: Mar 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We used a 0.3 C4 in the crack. Fun route!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Free for All (5.6)
By: Wes B. When: Mar 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route today. It was a little wet, but we were able to avoid most of the water/ice. We climbed the route in a total of 7 pitches. There were only 2 or 3 moves of 5.6 in my opinion. Why aren't there fixed anchors on top? Seems like most of the other main formations have them.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : Orange You Glad (5.7)
By: Wes B. When: Mar 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the guidebook, it states that this route is a 5.7. We thought that it was at least one grade harder than the climb River Rats. This route is a lot of fun, but if you're a 5.7 leader top rope it first!
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : Turtle Head (5.7)
By: Wes B. When: Mar 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the guidebook, it states that this route is a 5.7. We thought that it was at least two grades harder than the climb to the left (River Rats).
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: Wes B. When: Feb 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I must be mistaken. Thanks for the input guys.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: Wes B. When: Feb 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We must have been way off route then!!!!!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice : Upper Falls (WI2)
By: Wes B. When: Nov 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Upper Flow Conditions 11/29/09. Not worth the hike. . . yet.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Swanson Arete (5.5)
By: Wes B. When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the route last week. After climbing the West Chimney we scrambled up the Red Ledge to where the route proper starts and climbed the entire route in two rope stretching pitches (60m rope). Lots of lose rock on 1st pitch of arete. Great exposure on the last pitch. It's a shame you have to climb the West Chimney to get to this route. Highly recommended for Eldo newbies!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
By: Wes B. When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just climbed (and added to MP) the two routes right of Dick Van Dyke. They're both fun moderates (5.7) that are well protected. The rock isn't perfect but with a little more traffic it will get better.
I would rank Jug Domes 5.7's accordingly . . . .
Best - Love Canal
Good - Crystal Jug
OK - Shag
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Location: TX : Mineral Wells State Park
By: Wes B. When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a bad place to climb when near the Metroplex. Call the rangers before you head out otherwise you may make the drive for nothing. 10ft - 20ft slings are a good idea for most routes.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatironette : East Face/First Flatironett... (5.2)
By: Wes B. When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route but run out (the way we did it). We did it in 2 pitches and I think we placed 3 pieces of protection in 300'. Great views!!!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
By: Wes B. When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Directions from the East - Drive west on US Highway 34 for 3.2 miles past the Drake split. Park on the south side of the road (large dirt pullout). Walk 200 yards west and follow the well worn trail to the base (10 - 15 minutes).
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Dorsal Crack Area : Alice in Edge Land (5.5)
By: Wes B. When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good beginner trad lead (you can sew it up). Watch out for loose rock near the top.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock
By: Wes B. When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Left of 'Patriot' there's a really cool lieback crack that runs up to a small roof and then traverses right along a large flake to 'Patriots' anchor. It's a fun route and I'd guess it went about 5.8. Anyone know the name/rating of this?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Rambo Santa (5.7)
By: Wes B. When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. A few small cams and nuts will get a beginning leader to the anchor.
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