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pilon fracture


Member Since: Jan 5, 2003
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Wayne Crill


Point Rank: # 1,317
Total Points: 454
Last Year: 24
Last 30 Days: 0
41 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Wayne Crill been climbing?










Contributions


All 1169 | Routes 19 | Areas | Photos 37 | Page Improvments | Comments 79 | Posts 144 | Stars 512 | Ratings 378
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Catacombs : The Choice (5.11)
By: Wayne Crill When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: I chose the right version, it's fun and well worthwhile. Some kind of 10- seems about right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Futile Laments (5.9 PG13)
By: Wayne Crill When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: Starting on King's X this makes a really enjoyable 60m pitch to the mid-way ledge on the SW face. Continuing to the summit via Left Out (5.8R) makes for a consistent, sustained, and thoroughly enjoyable three star Wind Tower tour!


Location: CO : Eldorado Canyon SP - FHRC n...
By: Wayne Crill When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: Kev-

As stated in the too long and redundant, yet useful MP discussion on the subject, the main goal appears to have been "to provoke discussion". My take is also that there was some disagreement within ACE on this, and apparently, even some ACE members acting on their own towards this end, WHICH MOST DEFINITELY SHOULD BE DISCOURAGED.

w


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Slow Death (5.11- PG13)
By: Wayne Crill When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: This is a fun route with good gear through the crux. I don't think it gets climbed much, I'm sure the name and the published severity grade scare away most suitors, but it's worth doing, especially now that a lot of the lichen has been cleared off. With more traffic, it would clean up nicely. I'm sure it's related to skill (or lack thereof), but I thought it was reachy through the crux. Mild early season jalepeno spicy on my three pepper scale = probably more PG than PG-13.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Wayne Crill When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: That's a great photo! I really like it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Death Card (aka Ace of Spad... (5.11- R)
By: Wayne Crill When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: I was up at Peanuts the other day and found out that there is already an Eldo route named 'Ace of Spades' up there (doh!). So I had to rename this rig, so there you go.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Kickin' Chicken (5.12b)
By: Wayne Crill When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Kickin' Chicken is a bit of a slang term for the liquor Wild Turkey, and this route is a harder variation of Wild Turkey, so that is the story behind the name.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : No Visible Means of Support (5.10b R)
By: Wayne Crill When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was a really fun route, probably worth three stars if not for the choss band (plenty solid) and the circuitous-wandering nature of the line. The bottom is definitely 5.8R, but that's significantly below the grade, so I think it's more of a PG-13 route, Jalapeño spicy. Tricky but good gear, a little spaced here and there. I found Loweballs to be very useful and inspiring in many of the thin cracks and flakes. Aaron's description sums it up well, I would probably not use the flex... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Lemmings (5.8)
By: Wayne Crill When: Apr 28, 2013

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Comments: Fun variation to West Overhang if there are parties on that route as there often are.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Whittle Whisk (5.10 PG13)
By: Wayne Crill When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: Nice addition, Hard Cor - surprisingly good rock and fun, steep climbing. Looking forward to checking out GRT which appears even better.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Plinth (5.10b R)
By: Wayne Crill When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was a very good route, up an aesthetic face. The face climbing above the last gear on the ramp felt bold and intimidating, but not hard. After initiating the left angling 'traverse' it eases off to the bolt. Initiating the traverse felt like intricate 5.9 and A fall up here could be very bad, seemd R/X worthy, at least compared to others in Eldo. Climbing straight up above the bolt is the crux,some kind of committing .10. Habanero spicy on the pepper scale. Really fun climbing o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Right Side? aka Bong Sessio... (5.10c)
By: Wayne Crill When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: This is a worthy route. Big fun and just kinda in your face most of the way. Well worth doing, especailly as a Kor Classic (which I think it is??)!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Loft : Orange You Lichen It? (5.11- PG13)
By: Wayne Crill When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: I Lichened it! Another great find HC. Worthwhile to tromp up the gully for these two fun lines.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : The Squeamish (5.10d R) : Photo
By: Wayne Crill When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: I wouldn't know what's on route or not, but the gear here on the far R. is substantially R of where I thought the route went, you would want double ropes going way over there. I thought the most mentally challenging and exciting climbing was between the two flakes in the L half of this photo. I placed gear a little higher than that shown in the lower L flake (you can place it at the top, but the flake could break that high up?), then traversed up and right a body length-ish to a stance 10' belo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : The Squeamish (5.10d R)
By: Wayne Crill When: Mar 18, 2012

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Comments: Hmmm, not sure about all the haters re: this route, must expect perfect rock all the time or maybe they just top roped it and so missed out on the love? I thought it was every bit as good as it looked descending from Nobody's Home. This route has everything a Eldo adventure climber could ask for. Lots of fun and sustained .10 climbing with interesting gear placements, good rock, good movement, and good position. What's not to love?? Definitely R, I thought it tricky hard and sustained, .10+ s... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Nobody's Home (5.9)
By: Wayne Crill When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

I thought this pitch climbed much better and much steeper than it appeared from the ground. Totally disagree with SL's guide that it's awkward, but agree with his FUN statement. I thought it was quite interesting and thought provoking. Maybe it was my avoiding the awkwardness, but the way it keeps pushing you right over the steepness for your lower body with fun exposure was fantastic.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : Off The Hook (M5 R)
By: Wayne Crill When: Feb 9, 2012

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Comments: I don't know about the grade, I'm horrible with this. It's really a series of 3 ice boulder problems. Do people just use an M grade for such things, assuming that any water ice is what it is? Shouldn't matter, I suppose. I also don't recall exactly when we did this, but I think it was the big snow and ice "storm" of January 2007.

I imagine it'll be forming up again now, maybe I'll try it again or at least snap some photos this weekend.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Warm Up (5.10d)
By: Wayne Crill When: Jan 23, 2012

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Comments: This and "The Altar" seemed contrived to follow right over their bolt lines as there is easier climbing within in reach just to the R ond L respectively. Nevertheless, staying right on top of the bolts is much better climbing, and this one felt like .11a when done that way which has to be the "bolter's intention"?


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud... : Mudflap Girl (5.10)
By: Wayne Crill When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: I was able to enjoy my first climbing experiences on the Mudwall 9/25 Saturday on this route, which I thought overall was rather fantastic. Kudos to the FA party! Really enjoyable, adventurous climbing, steep and juggy in places, techy-face in others, most on very nice quality rock. The first pitch and some other is rather sandy, and with the ledges, loose rock abounds, but the vast majority of the climbing is on really cool quartzite. I see a comment about 10- sandbag, that's for sure, I see t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Warf Factor (5.12a)
By: Wayne Crill When: Jun 19, 2011

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Comments: Can't comment on the knee-bar, but the full-on dyno up with the left from the same holds is big fun .12- at the hardest. Really fun, short line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Out to Pasture aka Momentus... (5.11-)
By: Wayne Crill When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: In the '99 Rositer book, this line is described as 'Out to Pasture', 10a, Hare and Wood, 1980, which seems about right. Funny that somewhere since it gets two bolts, renamed, and upgraded.
Don't know how its described in the newer BC book, but then you wouldn't know anything re the history or first ascentionist from that guide anyway....
Fun little line.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Hammerhead (5.9+)
By: Wayne Crill When: May 2, 2011

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Comments: Instead of traversing R. after the difficulties to the hand crack which I consider a part of Nurse Shark, I recommend continuing up and arching R. toward the anchor through the broken rock. The rock is solid (enough), and there is a green Alien that protects the upper portion. This is entertaining and I think a little more 'sustained' than the big traverse R. at 30'.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Tendonkey Punch (5.12c)
By: Wayne Crill When: Apr 30, 2011

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Comments: I did this route today, I thought it was very good. I forgot my printout guide so didn't know anything re grade or history of this line but thought it aesthetic looking and not unreasonable appearing from the bottom. I don't know where the broken hold is/was (must have been around the second bolt?), but it was hard about the second bolt. I moved just left of the second bolt from the obvious flared pod and then continued up and slightly left following the weakness to a shake hold with poor feet... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : River Dance (5.8)
By: Wayne Crill When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: I have only climbed a few days at Thunder Ridge, but since I just climbed River Dance, am quite familiar with the SPlatte and surrounding areas up/down the Front Range, enjoy discussions of history, ethics, and style, but mostly because RLaird stated "I am interested in other Thunder Ridge climbers’ opinions of my perspective or critiques of climbs that I have developed." I will chime in with my $.02 re the above "discussion".

Because I had difficulty following the MP "printout guide" of the ar... more >>


Location: International : South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Ishinca Valley : ... : Photo
By: Wayne Crill When: Apr 1, 2011

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Comments: WTF? Winning The Future?? nice support of executive branch policy Ben.


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