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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 15, 2008
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Point Rank: # 425
Total Points: 1,399
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 309 | Routes 76 | Areas 29 | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 94 | Posts | Stars 86 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jul 14, 2005

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Comments: Hey, why not a "third-of-the-way-up-the-arete" bail sling too?

And while we are at it, why not a bail station every other pitch of the regular route? In fact, we should ask the Flatiron's hardware group to conduct a survey of all possible bailing off points and fit them with slings. That way we will not be "disappointed" if we decide to bail at any point in the climb.

The point I am trying to make is: We shouldn't have permanent bail set-ups. By definition, bailing off is an event that takes ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 19, 2005

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Comments: I agree with George that this is an amazing route. It felt like the first 7 pitches of Eagle Dance except 60% longer and with a lot more trad and commitment than Eagle Dance. Equal quality of rock and not a single poor quality pitch

The approach is long and a bit complex mainly in ensuring you find the correct gully. But I felt it was not as painful as other approaches (Oak creek canyon for instance). From the "pass" between Mount Wilson and the Pimple head up-hill on faint trails towards the ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Unfamiliar Strangers (5.9+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 26, 2004

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Comments: Peter, climbing is inhenrently dangerous and unpredictable.

If you start the route without trad gear and then notice the run out (like I did) you have two choices: run it out (as you and I did) or get lowered and you lose a biner.

Otherwise we would need to bolt all the run outs in the Flatirons, too....

At least now, if one reads the description on this site, you know there is a scary run out and that you may need gear.

Caveat Emptor

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 19, 2004

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Comments: We climbed this last Sunday and I have to say it is a great climb. We did it in three pitches linking pitches 2-3 and pitches 4-5. This worked out perfect with a 60M rope.

I felt pitch one was stout for 5.8.

The crux of pitch two proved hard to protect if you are too short to stem to the good holds. The cracks eats gear but if you can't let go to place it, it's not much good. At 6ft I was able to stem just fine.

The flake pitch we thought was wild! we had no large gear to protect so it prove... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Angel's Way (5.2)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 29, 2004

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Comments: We just went and soloed this one again today (all seven of us), early in the morning. I never tire of this climb. It is clean and fun and looong. Just a scramble though, so you hard core crankers might not love it as much.

For those of you who like scrambles in the flatirons this one is a must. The "pain" of the approach keeps the crowds away and it is a small price to pay for the quality of climb and position.

This ridge is "off limits" during the Bird Closures so get it while the getting is ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Allosaur (5.9 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 21, 2004

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Comments: We finally got to climb this route. What a treat!

I felt that the first pitch was run out but manageable, but I did not lead it.

We linked the second and third pitches with little rope drag, although I made sure I used a long sling to protect the start of the third pitch.

The run out at the beginning of the third pitch gave me some pause but the holds are positive and the rock is good. Great pro is to be found after a few feet.

I had been scared away from this climb for some time due to the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Sofa Kingdom (5.10)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 21, 2004

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Comments: Bob, funny you should bring that up...

I guess we are so used to 5 mile approaches that we did not bother to look for directions until we noticed that we were running out of climbable rocks as we hiked up the side of the hill.

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Sofa Kingdom (5.10)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 20, 2004

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Comments: I agree that this is not 5.10. More like 5.8 with perhaps one move of 5.9.

I guess if one would limit onself to following the bolt line directly it may be harder than if you reach left and right for the obvious holds. But then, it would be way contrived....

Anyway, fun route to do, particularly if you are lost looking for the Animal Crag and stumble upon it.

WT


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 18, 2004

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Comments: I finally got around to climbing this. We did it this Tuesday and had the climb practically to ourselves.

I must say this is a damn good climb. The Petit is simply awesome. We soloed the first pitch's 4th/ easy 5th class slabs and grove left of the "direct start". And linked pitches 2-3 from deep in the chimney.

I have never been on a climb with so many fixed pieces: Stoppers, camalots, rigid friends, hexes, trango cams, aliens. Can't understand why this is so.

Simply amazing summit.

We did... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Kit Carson / The Prow (5.8 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 9, 2004

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Comments: We finally did this climb on Sunday 8/8/04.

Very cool route. The descriptions above were pretty much on target. A couple of comments:

- The 5.8 start is at 13,000 ft. For some reason even though I knew the Prow came close to the summit I never did the math to the start... So as you ponder your capabilities to do this route remember that the whole affair will take place between 13K-14K ft.

- It is mentioned in the above comments that the route is run out. Now, I am used to Flatiron run outs a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: Warren Teissier When: May 10, 2004

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Comments: Couple of thoughts:

Even though the aid section can be done with slings it is not as simple as one might think. I found that moving into the crack/groove at the end of the bolt ladder was non trivial. I certainly did not feel comfortable going it "free" into the groove right after the last bolt. (traverse to the left)

The climbing to reach the hanging belay above the "Trash and Dangle" and the next short section looked awkward and hard. Possibly harder and certainly weirder than anything on th... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall
By: Warren Teissier When: May 5, 2004

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Comments: We recently had the opportunity to trash in and out of Oak Creek Canyon on our way to Eagle Dance. Having done the hike before, we knew that it would not be fun.

Because we were expecting a thrashing and were paying lots of attention to cairns and bypasses for the large boulders, the first part of the canyon (up to the fork junction) went surprisingly well.

Just as we were commenting on how this was really not that bad, we started getting religion, crawling under prickly bushes with a full pa... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: Warren Teissier When: May 5, 2004

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Comments: After completing the Crux Dihedral, resist the urge to climb the small roundy "boulder summit" in front of you.

The route scrambles off to its right.

Not knowing this, I climbed to the top (5.7?). Nice view, but no way down. I found an ancient, way wobbly stardrive bolt with a ratty sling. No way I was going to rap off of this...So I had to downclimb and clean my gear, by far the scariest part of the whole climb.

Other than that I had a great time on this route.

WT


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9)
By: Warren Teissier When: May 5, 2004

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Comments: Climbed this with George a few days ago. A couple of comments on this great route:

- It has a very different "feel" from other climbs I've done in Red Rocks: lots of cracks, almost completetly boltless, very little traffic, complex route finding. I guess this is how Ginger Cracks felt before all the belays and the crux were bolted. Definitely a "burly" climb with no gimme pitches.

- Regarding the descent: After rapping the slot (1st rap)walk South (20yards?)on a small trail between the bushes ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Two Move Rock : South East Ridge/Two Move R... (5.2)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 29, 2004

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Comments: Greg, it has been a while... I do not necessarily recall the details. I only remember it was short and that the two moves were a bit grippy for me (soloing).

I seem to recall the moves being somewhere in the middle at a small headwall.

Regarding Sentinel Pass, I recall walking North from the top of the rock in order to reach it. I think the terrain is higher than the pass itself so if that's what you mean by above I agree.

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Challenger : East Face/Challenger (5.4 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 16, 2004

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Comments: To complement George's comment above: the crux of the climb comes at exactly 100 ft above the horizontal crack anchor... no pro in between...

This one has a high pucker factor, Pheeew!

Very nice though.

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: Warren Teissier When: Mar 29, 2004

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Comments: AC, we considered trundling the block but, besides it not being fully detached (at least we did not test it), we could not see from our position if people were coming up a side trail below or down the hill for that matter.

Not a liability I was interested in shouldering.

I figured a heads up on this site would prevent an accident and if some one else wants to trundle it let them decide to do so.

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: Warren Teissier When: Mar 29, 2004

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Comments: Climbed this early yesterday amid intermitent periods of sun and snow showers.

What a great climb this is indeed.

Lose rock alert:

There is a large flake 1x3 feet to the right and up from the last bolt of the first pitch that is ready to come off.

As you reach the last bolt and you head up the easier broken section on the right, the first large handhold you reach is the top of the loose flake.

I pulled on it yesterday and it pulled out while making that grainy "rock-detaching-itself-from-... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Break on Through (5.10b)
By: Warren Teissier When: Mar 24, 2004

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Comments: I guess I must revisit this climb again and look harder for the "bomber" finger locks.

I simply did not see them, or maybe they are meant to be in the crack where my fingers didn't fit... I tried for a long time to get a good grip in the crack, but try as I may, all I got was a very thin "tips" .

Maybe my fingers are finger lock challenged.

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge
By: Warren Teissier When: Mar 8, 2004

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Comments: I agree that a ladder would not be a good idea.

Before I knew one could downclimb the chockstone side (first time down the East slabs descent) I tried to descend the slab side (Downclimbing right). That time of year, I found it covered with slime and seeping with water so we rapped the slab (I think from a tree that had slings).

As we were rapping, we saw a couple of climbers downclimb the chocksotne side and realized it was not as hard as first thought.

So, in case you are not feeling like... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Maroon Ridge (5.4)
By: Warren Teissier When: Dec 6, 2003

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Comments: Derek, I agree with you that this route is entirely 4th class if you get the whole route right.

However, we found that there were so many cairns pointing to so many variations and snow covered parts of the route (we did it early in the season) that it was hard for us to sort out IF we were on route. We did it South to North and roped up for one pitch.

Like you, in hinsight, it turns out we could have soloed it, just like you could have downclimbed instead of rapping.

The operating word here... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fatiron : East Face/Fatiron (5.4)
By: Warren Teissier When: Nov 24, 2003

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Comments: I recently had the opportunity to climb this route again.

In the interest of safety, I want to point out that the first 50-70 feet have, as noted by Joseph, very little gear.

In fact we placed only two pieces in this section. Granted it is easy but it is also thin. I happen to believe that the crux of the route is actually in this section...

So, if you are not used to Flatiron climbing and its accompanying run outs and funky gear, don't let the easy rating fool you. Those are some intense 5... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 6, 2003

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Comments: Wasp Alert!

There are many a wasps nesting in the flakes in the lower section of the first pitch (up to the first smaller roof)

Myke lead the pitch seemingly oblivious of the critters flying around him. As I followed the pitch, I avoided the first flake since I could see them looking at me from under the flake.

I realized they were under all the flakes (holds) once I underclinged one of them, a wasp that is, higher up on the route. Luckily it did not see it coming and I smashed its whole bod... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Free for All (5.6)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 20, 2003

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Comments: Ryan, I agree, the downclimb is indeed scary, hard to sort out the first time and WAY exposed

An alternative to rappelling is to "downlead" the route the "weaker" climber goes first belayed from above and places gear frequently as he down climbs

Then, once on the ground, the "weaker" climber belays the person at the top. That person then downclimbs and cleans the pieces... That's how I did it my first time up there

Cheers, WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 19, 2003

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Comments: Let's see, I followed Touch and Go yesterday and then lead the 5.9 crux of Anthill Direct...

The Touch and Go crux felt more insecure and harder (while following!) than the Anthill direct 5.9 on lead... Either one ratting needs to come down or the other needs to go up.

WT


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