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Member Since: Apr 12, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 8,951
Total Points: 24
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas are worth 15
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All (276) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (24) | Posts (235) | Stars (9) | Ratings (8)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihe... (5.10+) : Photo
By: Wally When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Jordan - there are two massive dihedrals in this photo. Which dihedral, the right or the left, is the route?


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : Psychic Turbulance (5.11b)
By: Wally When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Has anyone done this route in recent years? I had the fortune to get this really tough line many years ago. I spoke with the stud climbing ranger a couple of years ago - he said Psychic Turbulence needed some gardening work, and hadn't been climbed in years.

True?


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Wally When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: As a first time visitor last weekend from Colorado, good directions to the Ten Sleep free camping area were hard to find, approaching from the east. Here you go:

Powder River Pass is mile marker 55 on highway 16.
Willow Park Campground is mile marker 45 on highway 16.
Deer Haven Lodge is mile marker 44 on highway 16.

The old road, gateway to good and free Ten Sleep camping, is near mile marker 42 on highway 16. The old road is not signed and difficult to spot at night. A good landmark is the o... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Hot Fun Sunday (5.11)
By: Wally When: May 24, 2013

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Comments: Four pieces in 70 feet at Indian Creek - on an insecure 5.11. Come on Tony. Perhaps you were bored back the day you put this route up and looking to stir the pot. Climb on my friend.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Steep
By: Wally When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: For the first time visitor, this place was tough to find. To get to The Steep, first drive to Summerhaven, and then continue on the road past Summerhaven (as noted above, generally in a southern direction) 1.0 miles to the end of the road, noted as Marshall Gulch. The Aspen trail trail begins at Marshall Gulch.

As noted above, the climbers trail is pretty obvious, on the left, just after the Aspen trail makes a sharp right turn. Perhaps 15 minutes of hiking on the Aspen trail, and then an addit... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.9+) : Photo
By: Wally When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Not sure if this is crucial. But sure, always good to score the no hands rest!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sister of Pain (5.11c)
By: Wally When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: A great line. Pretty darn sustained.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Slave to the Grind (5.11c)
By: Wally When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Great line!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: Wally When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: This line faces north - great to do on a hot day. The gear beta here is good. No longer need to bring gear for the belay, as there are two bolts on the summit and also an anchor at the top of the route.

Great line!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Neighbor Of Putterman : After the Rain (5.10)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: This one has sandbag written all over it. First pitch is pretty tricky, more like 5.9.

Second pitch is a great pitch! Very memorable. Dan - you must have big mitts - this pitch steps up harder than 5.8 much earlier than suggested.

I also struggle with the rack beta on this one. Both Sergio and Alison recommend 3 to 4 #3.5 camalots. Pretty unique size - not too many folks out there have that many number 3.5s. The most prevalant cam size is #3 camalots. My gear beta for this one:

Si... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : House Of Putterman : Walden's Room (5.10c)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: As usual, the Andy Laakmann beta is right on - thanks Andy!

Sam and Josh - thanks for the updated hardware!

Cool route! Great summit. Put this one on your list!

Pitch four - both crux sections are hard, memorable. One bit of disagreement is the suggestion to aid the bolt ladder - very freeable and reasonable at the grade - if you slip - the bolt is right there. Maybe this section has cleaned up over time.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : House Of Putterman : Easton's Corner (5.11)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: Nice line - would be a tough lead - very bouldery and hard to protect start. Convenient top rope after Walden's Room.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Echo Pinnacle : Free Window Route (5.10+)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: Beta here is solid. We did pitch 2 and pitch 3 as one - not much of a ledge if you break this up as two pitches, although the weight of two ropes at the top of this long pitch was certainly evident. An incredible pitch - quite strenuous, opening moves, finishing moves, pretty much the whole pitch is in your face. A few rests after you punch through the hands to tight hands start. If you love this pitch - somewhat reminiscent of Long Dong Wall (Colorado National Monument) and Honeymoon Chimney.

... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: Driving beta is mostly good here. Mile marker signs are now numbered differently, turnoff is between mile marker 141 and 142. We had a 4-runner - was glad we had the four wheel drive. Not sure if I would want to try to get in here with a subaru (or a Paseo . . .).

Great climbing weekend destination.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Black Sun (5.10b)
By: Wally When: Feb 13, 2012

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Comments: Black Sun is a great route - three very memorable pitches once you break free from Kor Ingalls. Climbed it on a cold Saturday two days ago. Good weather for the route - wouldn't want to do that offwidth chimney grunt in 80 degree sun.

Beta here is mostly good. The last pitch is not 5.8, more like 5.9. Calling the crux pitch 9+ is sandbag. The gear beta here is good. On the slot, both an old style #4 camalot (bigger than the current version) and a #5 Camalot are useful. So yes, a @PO... more >>


Location: CO : Calling all Colorado Ice Cl...
By: Wally When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: S. Price and Tony T. - I am going to side with Laura on this one, hands down. There is way more demand than supply of ice in Colorado. A few years ago a buddy and I showed up at Alexander's at first light, and we were the fourth party vying for that route. The Skylight area on a popular weekend is pretty darn busy. Ouray it seems you can always find WI4 and WI5 leads, but still it can get pretty crazy busy. Ames on the weekend is a total crap shoot - even if you set the alarm for 3 am.

Contrast... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Wally When: Sep 2, 2011

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Comments: Mike C. is totally spot on. The second pitch is very serious for the leader - with bad fall potential (suspect RPs with a bad landing if they blow). A ballsy lead. If the second blows the crux, no big deal - a top roped swing to the left with nothing to hit - I've had two seconds take this fall - they were able to swing back into the start and try again. The suggestion to solo or backclean the pitch doesn't make any sense (i.e. is crazy) to me.

Wally


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : California Dreaming (5.11b)
By: Wally When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: This is a great line. The description here is accurate. We approached from the first pitch anchors of One Way Sunset.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Russian Arete (5.9+) : Photo
By: Wally When: May 27, 2011

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Comments: This is a good beta photo, but the 20 to 30 feet is wrong and very misleading. The start is about 80 to 100 feet right of the obvious detached pillar.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Swinging Chimps (5.11a)
By: Wally When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: This route is way harder than rated, the broken hold between the first and second clip is very likely the reason.

Wally


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Desert Vuarnet (5.12-)
By: Wally When: Oct 13, 2010

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Comments: Beagle says this: Lots of rests.

Slim says this: heavy on the throttle the whole way.

Beta seems to conflict. Thoughts?

Wally


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Space Invaders (5.11a R)
By: Wally When: Sep 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a great finish to Outer Space.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Teepee Tower Crack (5.9)
By: Wally When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: GREAT route! Here is our gear list:

Stoppers - none! Leave them at home.
Aliens - single set green through red.
Camalot juniors - double set.
Camalots - 2 ones, 3 twos, 5 or 6 threes, 2 or 3 fours (either old style or new).
The second pitch is the money pitch. Long and pretty darn sustained!
A 70 meter rope is best for the rap. The rap bolts are mank but at least there are three of them.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Better Lock Next Time (5.10b)
By: Wally When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: GREAT! route. Climbed it for the fourth time on Saturday April 10th. As usual, no one was there. Gear:

Stoppers - none! Leave them at home.
Aliens - single set green through red.
Camalot juniors - double set.
Camalots - 3 ones, 3 twos, 2 threes, 1 new style four.

I agree with the post above, the 5th pitch does soak up #2 Camalots - but that pitch is 5.8 most of the way. If you prefer to place more gear, add in another #2 Camalot.

I agree with Chris Jones, no way I would link pitch... more >>