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Member Since: Jun 14, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 22, 2014
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Point Rank: # 10,007
Total Points: 20
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 40 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 10 | Posts | Stars 24 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Order of Closure

Order of Closure

NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls

Mar 29, 2010

Map of Closures

Map of Closures

NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls

Mar 29, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Mounty (5.7)
By: Walldahl When: Aug 21, 2006

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Comments: I think I missed a critical hold through the crux. Nevertheless, I managed to smear the feet a little higher and escaped the barn door action, just barely. I had at least a 20’ run out through the crux and opted to clip the bolt just 3’-4’ right of the pin for my next piece. When I go back to climb this again, I will opt to use the pin and slot the bomber #7 nut up high instead of the bolt before the finish.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Cheap Labor (5.10a)
By: Walldahl When: Aug 21, 2006

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Comments: I felt the crux section was just a tad harder than the crux section of Lunchmoney but less sustained. I also felt that this climb deserves 3 stars...Great! I liked it so much, I pulled the rope and climbed it a second time. Fun!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Lunchmoney (5.9+)
By: Walldahl When: Jul 27, 2006

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Comments: Move for move it felt like 5.9+ and they made you think. Although, it is steep (steeper than it looks on the approach), sustained, and with a beautiful crux at the end...while you're pumped. Awesome setting with the river in the background and away from the road.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.8)
By: Walldahl When: Jul 25, 2006

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Comments: Excellent climb!

Make sure you combine pitches one and two all the way to the big ledge. There is a nice hole in the overhang for a #2/#3 Camalot if you want something besides slinging horns for a belay.

When pulling through the little roof section, make sure you get your right hip on the huge horn, and then look for feet out right. Climb all the way to the top for the belay…past the tree and blocks, through the notch, and enjoy the view.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Walldahl When: Jul 25, 2006

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Comments: Classic!

It is best to climb this route in two pitches as noted above. Climb the first three pitches as one pitch and the last two pitches as one pitch. If you must climb the first three pitches as two pitches, then consider doing the first pitch as described in the guide and then combining the second and third pitch…you’ll probably move faster.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Vitamin-N (5.8+)
By: Walldahl When: Jul 25, 2006

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Comments: I think this climb should get another star...it's a great climb and is now all clean and very secure.

Comparing this to other Clear Creek Canyon routes, I’ve climbed 5.9s and 5.10s that felt easier. However, compared to climbs elsewhere, it’s right there in the 5.8+ range.

The crux for me was the section getting to the second bolt. The undercling traverse past the second bolt was really cool and not hard once you committed to the first moves of getting your feet up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Walldahl When: Jul 12, 2006

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Comments: This is a superb climb. I could stop here, but…

Great gear the whole way. The fixed Cam at the start of the crux is still there, as well as the nut near the top of the crux. I could’ve climbed the entire crux without placing a single piece, but since they’ve been there since “3 or 4 months before Nov 15, 2004” (Larry’s comment), I opted to place an extra piece or two. There’s a good #0.5 Cam just above the fixed nut. Keep in mind too that there are great features out right of the cra... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Verschneidung (5.7)
By: Walldahl When: Jul 7, 2006

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Comments: I think this route deserves its classic rating! The short section in the V-slot offers some of the best straight in jamming offered in the canyon. Although, its only downside is that it is too short. Looking up from down below, the V-slot looks a lot longer then it actually is. After 5 or so rock-solid bomber jams, the love is over. Then you start the easy traverse out left and up to the belay. Greasy? Not when I was there in the early morning, late May. There was one stuck cam just afte... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Vertical Smile (5.7)
By: Walldahl When: Jul 7, 2006

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Comments: I felt the climb deserves two stars (good) and agree that this would make a good intro to Ruper. Route finding wasn’t that difficult, but if you get to the base of the roof climbs then you have gone too far. Back track about 100 feet and traverse the slope to the west to that big overhang.

Take a shoulder length sling and wrap it around the enormous horn for the belay at the start of the climb. You can’t miss it; it’s about head high when standing on the broken ledge near the to... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Side aka West Chimney (5.7)
By: Walldahl When: Jun 16, 2006

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Comments: I think this route deserves three stars. There is that seemingly loose section on the first pitch, but you can’t discount the first 35 feet of beautiful hand jams. This section seems to often get overlooked??

P1) Place a nice #2 Camalot at the top of the hand crack, and start working your way up and left. You’ll see a big block with a fist size v-slot in the back of it. I placed a red Alien there that I would’ve felt comfortable falling on, but the climbing was seemingly safe and eas... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Reggae 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - SW Face

Mesca-Line 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part C - Pony ...

Lunchmoney 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

CO : Golden : ... : Lower Capitalist Crag

Verschneidung 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part A - Versc...

Wind Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - SW Face

The Bastille Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face

Calypso Direct 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - SW Face

The Nordwand 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

CO : Golden : ... : Little Eiger

Cheap Labor 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CO : Golden : ... : Lower Capitalist Crag

Vitamin-N 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Golden : ... : Lower Capitalist Crag

West Side aka West Chimney 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face

Knight's Move 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part E - top t...

Dr. Michael Solar 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part D - Xanad...

Vertical Smile 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram...

West Overhang 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - SW Face

First Impressions 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CO : Golden : ... : Little Eiger

Eiger Sanction 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CO : Golden : ... : Little Eiger

Eiffel Tower 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CO : Golden : ... : Little Eiger

Conehead 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CO : Golden : ... : Little Eiger

Bonehead 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CO : Golden : ... : Little Eiger

Rush Buick 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge

Mounty 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Golden : ... : Lower Capitalist Crag

Headline 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CO : Golden : ... : Little Eiger

S&M 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part E - top t...

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Cheap Labor

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CO : Golden : ... : Lower Capitalist Crag

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