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Red Rocks, The Gift 5.12d.  Photo by Adam "Poganonamist" Bove


Member Since: Jun 26, 2008
Last Visit: Jul 12, 2014
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Point Rank: # 579
Total Points: 1,034
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 0
21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 322 | Routes 78 | Areas 7 | Photos 23 | Page Improvments | Comments 34 | Posts 15 | Stars 132 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : World Domination : Came as a Rat (5.12b/c)
By: WAGbag When: Jul 15, 2011

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Comments: This would be much better if the bolt line resembled the climbing line at all. "Tricky cruxes" should be interpreted as "not obvious because it wanders".


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall : Ride the Lightning (5.13b)
By: WAGbag When: Feb 14, 2011

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Comments: Interesting. Everybody I know used the slanting undercling. Those that didn't couldn't ever pull the move - but yes there are a ton of options through that section... they just all feel much harder than the previous sequence! - as I said, I couldn't pull through it at all. Never tried a lunge from the right. Well if y'all think 13b with the crimps maybe I'll go back and give it another go.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall : Ride the Lightning (5.13b)
By: WAGbag When: Feb 13, 2011

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Comments: Today a hold broke in the crux.

What was the V7 crux with a tricky sequence that used an angled undercling is now an unknown grade after the undercling broke off. There are some unusable remnants of the undercling and after trying the crux many different ways we were unable to put it together. It will still go but it's going to be at least a letter grade harder and more temperature dependent.

While I'm somewhat happy NM gained another hard 13, I'm pretty bummed I missed my send by 5 minutes.... more >>


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : The Aircraft Carrier : Unlock This AKA:The Locksmi... (V6)
By: WAGbag When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: Please let me know what the proper name/grade for this route is... we asked around but nobody knew.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : The Asylum : ... : Case Study (5.12b)
By: WAGbag When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: I'll slightly modify the statement "under 5'5" beware" by saying I'm 5'8" with a 5'6" wingspan and it's the wingspan that tortured me, not height. With a bit of momentum and pulling my fingers slightly out of the undercling I was able to hit the crimp.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End
By: WAGbag When: May 31, 2010

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Comments: Drive the dirt road until just before it crosses the creek, there are two pullouts. Walk back up the road about 30 yards (south) to just past the green gate and head up the trail passing a rock kiln shortly off the road. The split in the trail 1/3rd the way up takes you to Heaven (left/straight) or to Gallagher Buttress (right). 10 min hike.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Onomatopoeia (5.12a)
By: WAGbag When: May 31, 2010

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Comments: As Richard noted, stay 10 inches right of the bolt line is 5.12a, but just 10 inches left puts you right on the 5.11 making this a very contrived route.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Gunning for the Buddha (5.12b) : Photo
By: WAGbag When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: You're cruel Mono. Just because there's a double mono doesn't mean you get to downgrade.

FYI I stole your hangboard setup and put one up in the ABQ gym on base. DTP and I are on a mission for Touch Monkey...


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Against All Cobbs (5.12c)
By: WAGbag When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: I'll actually vote 'no' for adding a bolt. By the time you get high enough where there is deck-potential, it's easy holds to get into the 3rd. Adding a bolt just means you'd have to clip off bad holds. An alert belayer will remove any real danger here.

Adding a sling on the 4th makes clipping easier for the crux that follows.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Mr. Big (5.12-)
By: WAGbag When: Dec 22, 2009

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Comments: 37m climb - watch your ends and downclimb last bit when lowering


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : La Vaca ('The Cow') (5.11d)
By: WAGbag When: Nov 26, 2009

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Comments: Reduce rope drag by going up Abuelito dime tu and continuing straight up into the second pitch of la vaca. 60 or 70 m rope doesn't matter, you have to lower to the top of the 1st pitch then rap. Very very good route.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico
By: WAGbag When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: Since it's time for many people (including myself) to start making plans for a trip to Potrero I thought I would try to help the climbs a little. There are a few people that have poured tons of money and time into the climbs out there so a few donations can go a long way:

1. Old rope. If you're nearing the end of a rope, consider leaving it at the end of the trip. There are several routes that could use a new fixed line (base of Celestial Omnibus, Time Wave Zero (badly), Land of the Free to... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : BYOB (5.12+)
By: WAGbag When: Aug 2, 2009

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Comments: Looks like lots of chalk heading toward the anchors of Tecate after the last bolt (and one person I know stating they went that way) for an easier finish, putting the crux in between 3 and 4. Correct anchor is right putting the crux after the last bolt. Certainly not 13, not 12+, more like 12. Despite all the oddities I had a great time on it!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Cracker Jack Cliffs : Enemy Wind (5.11c)
By: WAGbag When: Jun 25, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic technical climbing from the bottom to top. Great contrast to overhung Main wall climbs


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : El Sendero Diablo (The Devi... (5.11c)
By: WAGbag When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: One of the best climbs in the park. Watch for people below since it traverses left. The middle pitches all felt like 5.11- and had me smiling the whole time.

Skipping the last pitch leads to a big swing to Afro Juan. Acccording to Handsome Mike you can do the last pitch and come straight down into Afro Juan. We back-tracked the last 5.11a pitch then went into anther climb below.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Salty Dog (5.12a)
By: WAGbag When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: Moving way left after the ledge gives it 5.12a (with long reaches to hit the clips). Straight up is about 5.12c.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : The Pride Buttress
By: WAGbag When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: The climbs from left to right are:

Devotion (actually part of Pride Enclave but is right next to these)
Just Shut Up and Send It
The Hidalgo Strangler
Slam Hound
OCS
Leisure Suit
Deep Shag
Army in Your Panties.

Note - as of 2009 this section had very little traffic with no distinct trail and overgrown routes. With the addition of Just Shut Up, Strangler and Slam Hound, significant cleaning was done and a new trail cut in (thanks to Simeon, Rick and Jake) although the other routes were not cle... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
Found: belay device at New River Wall, Clear Creek CanyonLost and FoundWAGbagAug 18, 2012
Lost: GriGri 2 Red Rocks - Cannibis Crag 2/18/12Lost and FoundWAGbagFeb 23, 2012
Offering ride from ABQ to Denver 11/24-11/27Arizona & New MexicoWAGbagNov 16, 2011
re: Opinion on Nikon D3000 or other DSLR cameras? Climbing Gear DiscussionWAGbagOct 26, 2011
Smith partner 4/12 to 4/15Pacific NorthwestWAGbagApr 11, 2011
Lost: Canon Flash on Gorillapod at HuecoLost and FoundWAGbagMar 18, 2011
re: Kalymnos, Greece costInternationalWAGbagDec 7, 2010
re: Campground at Red RocksNevadaWAGbagMar 18, 2010
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