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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Sex Cave : Stone Cold Head (5.13b)
By: WAGbag When: 14 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The vimeo video on the Ticks page shows pretty good beta, though the very first couple moves can be done much easier and it seems more appropriate and fun to finish up the headwall for the final V3/4 instead of escaping right into the dihedral. That probably separates 13b vs. 13a.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Spartacus : Le 13eme Travail d'Hercules (5.10d)
By: WAGbag When: Nov 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route deserves more good marks than the description gives it. The start is easy but has some excellent incut crimps. Above is a continous technical dance with just enough space between bolts to make you think twice about placing a sloppy foot. Better than Les Amazones.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Odyssey : Lucky Luca (5.12b)
By: WAGbag When: Nov 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ultra polished. High foot at the low crux and get a left kneebar later.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Grande Grotta : Elefantenhimmel (pt. 2) (5.11+)
By: WAGbag When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Marginal route in my opinion. Do not clean by tramming in. Clean by TR only.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : The Ghost Kitchen : Joy in the Kitchen (5.10b)
By: WAGbag When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also listed as "Joy in the Garden". Very sharp in the middle but fun movement. About 14 draws.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : The Ghost Kitchen
By: WAGbag When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gets sun earlier than other walls. Very popular place.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Tsunami (5.12)
By: WAGbag When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I rarely upgrade, but did for this to 12c for shorties. As you can see in on of the photos you can hit the crux hold with a great right foot if you're tall, but have to move up to terrible feet if you're short, tipping the scale from 12b to 12c in my opinion.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Delirious (5.12a)
By: WAGbag When: Apr 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2 bolts up then traverse directly right until you are well right of the angling bolt line. Four stars through the first five bolts but you way want to bring a walkie-talkie so you can here your belayer over the top of the powerful sucking sound you'll hear as stars are sucked out of the climb with each move above, wandering way right, way left with no discernable flow or natural line.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : Middle Earth
By: WAGbag When: Apr 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "Getting there" section of most areas in AZ could use a little help. For middle earth, try this:
After mp15 you will pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right, the very next pullout (on your left) is for Middle Earth and The Helmet (just below 2 blocky towers). Start at the upper end of the pullout and walk up the gully. Just before you reach the crest cairns will either continue straight up (Helmet) or go right (middle earth). Follow right and sidehill (uphill to right) above a large slab a... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannabis Crag : Freak Brothers (5.12c)
By: WAGbag When: Feb 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those with T-rex arms like me you might have some difficulty gaining the first crimp off the shelf where a strenuous deadpoint feels like V6. Those with average to long arms will have a nice static V4 to start the climb.
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Location: International : North America : Cayman Brac : Love Shack Wall
By: WAGbag When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This wall is in the sun all day in January, though it's possible to squeeze one more route in when you get back to the Bluff house as the sun sets.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Dark Side : Dark Side Wall : Concracktion (5.11c)
By: WAGbag When: Aug 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My vote for best climb at Spearfish and top 5 ever...
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Mohican : The Gully Of Biblical Propo... : Forbidden Fruit (5.11b)
By: WAGbag When: Aug 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be a lot better if it actually climbed the arete like it would appear it should (given bolt line). It actually climbs right of the bolt line away from the arete all the way until the end, where you'll find two fun moves.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Big Picture Wall : First Blood (5.12c)
By: WAGbag When: Aug 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was listed in the old guide as 12b to the original anchor below the black rock. My opinion is 12c with or without the extension. Also note that the 'extension' is now the only route - the old anchors were removed. This applies to all the routes here that received extensions. Some of them got much harder so do not rely on the old guide grades.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Glamrock : Winger (5.11b)
By: WAGbag When: Aug 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route had me smiling all the way up. Falls in the top 2 I climbed while there.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Mohican : Indian Wars Wall : Last of the Mohicans (5.12a)
By: WAGbag When: Aug 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bit of a big throw down low then a thin crux that was a right thumb-catch gaston for me.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : World Domination : Came as a Rat (5.12b/c)
By: WAGbag When: Jul 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be much better if the bolt line resembled the climbing line at all. "Tricky cruxes" should be interpreted as "not obvious because it wanders".
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall : Ride the Lightning (5.13b)
By: WAGbag When: Feb 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting. Everybody I know used the slanting undercling. Those that didn't couldn't ever pull the move - but yes there are a ton of options through that section... they just all feel much harder than the previous sequence! - as I said, I couldn't pull through it at all. Never tried a lunge from the right. Well if y'all think 13b with the crimps maybe I'll go back and give it another go.
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall : Ride the Lightning (5.13b)
By: WAGbag When: Feb 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Today a hold broke in the crux.
What was the V7 crux with a tricky sequence that used an angled undercling is now an unknown grade after the undercling broke off. There are some unusable remnants of the undercling and after trying the crux many different ways we were unable to put it together. It will still go but it's going to be at least a letter grade harder and more temperature dependent.
While I'm somewhat happy NM gained another hard 13, I'm pretty bummed I missed my send by 5 minutes.... more >>
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : The Aircraft Carrier : Unlock This AKA:The Locksmi... (V6)
By: WAGbag When: Nov 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please let me know what the proper name/grade for this route is... we asked around but nobody knew.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Jacks Canyon : The Asylum : ... : Case Study (5.12b)
By: WAGbag When: Sep 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll slightly modify the statement "under 5'5" beware" by saying I'm 5'8" with a 5'6" wingspan and it's the wingspan that tortured me, not height. With a bit of momentum and pulling my fingers slightly out of the undercling I was able to hit the crimp.
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