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Red Rocks, The Gift 5.12d.  Photo by Adam "Poganonamist" Bove


Member Since: Jun 26, 2008
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 551
Total Points: 1,024
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 0
20 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (319) | Routes (77) | Areas (7) | Photos (23) | Comments (34) | Posts (15) | Stars (132) | Ratings (31)
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
last few underclings before the anchors

last few underclings before the anchors

AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Psycho Friends (5.11a)

Jul 13, 2010

Asylum.  Lower left is Joe's Grotto, middle is Upper Tier, right side is the left end of the main wall.  DisturbingThePeace is in there for a sense of scale.

Asylum. Lower left is Joe's Grotto, middle is Upper Tier, right side is the left end of the main wall. DisturbingThePeace is in there for a sense of scale.

AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : The Asylum

Jul 8, 2010

The Asylum - main wall

The Asylum - main wall

AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : The Asylum

Jul 8, 2010

DisturbingThePeace nabbing the redpoint after a 4 year hiatus.  This 12a took 3 goes.  The next day he got a 13a in 2.

DisturbingThePeace nabbing the redpoint after a 4 year hiatus. This 12a took 3 goes. The next day he got a 13a in 2.

NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Gunning for the Buddha (5.12b)

May 10, 2010

xkcd

xkcd

Arizona & New Mexico : Rideshare: Potrero to Albuq...

Dec 23, 2009

Wes in the roof

Wes in the roof

North America : Mexico : ... : Grindhouse Double Feature (5.12b)

Aug 31, 2009

Red Rocks, The Gift 5.12d.  Photo by Adam "Poganonamist" Bove

Red Rocks, The Gift 5.12d. Photo by Adam "Poganonamist" Bove

WAGbag : me

May 24, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : The Grasshopper Wall : Super Mama (Direct) (5.13b)
By: WAGbag When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: I thought the first 5 bolts ran straight up, no zig zag, just to the left of the bolt line. At 5'8" (-2) I could just every so slightly reach the crimp at around bolt 2. At bolt 7 the clip is hard but you probably don't need to skip. I used the gaston and clipped at waist height.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Sex Cave : Stone Cold Head (5.13b)
By: WAGbag When: Jun 18, 2013

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Comments: The vimeo video on the Ticks page shows pretty good beta, though the very first couple moves can be done much easier and it seems more appropriate and fun to finish up the headwall for the final V3/4 instead of escaping right into the dihedral. That probably separates 13b vs. 13a.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Spartacus : Le 13eme Travail d'Hercules (5.10d)
By: WAGbag When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: This route deserves more good marks than the description gives it. The start is easy but has some excellent incut crimps. Above is a continous technical dance with just enough space between bolts to make you think twice about placing a sloppy foot. Better than Les Amazones.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Odyssey : Lucky Luca (5.12b)
By: WAGbag When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: Ultra polished. High foot at the low crux and get a left kneebar later.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Grande Grotta : Elefantenhimmel (pt. 2) (5.11+)
By: WAGbag When: Oct 7, 2012

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Comments: Marginal route in my opinion. Do not clean by tramming in. Clean by TR only.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : The Ghost Kitchen : Joy in the Kitchen (5.10b)
By: WAGbag When: Oct 7, 2012

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Comments: Also listed as "Joy in the Garden". Very sharp in the middle but fun movement. About 14 draws.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : The Ghost Kitchen
By: WAGbag When: Oct 7, 2012

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Comments: Gets sun earlier than other walls. Very popular place.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Tsunami (5.12)
By: WAGbag When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: I rarely upgrade, but did for this to 12c for shorties. As you can see in on of the photos you can hit the crux hold with a great right foot if you're tall, but have to move up to terrible feet if you're short, tipping the scale from 12b to 12c in my opinion.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Delirious (5.12a)
By: WAGbag When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: 2 bolts up then traverse directly right until you are well right of the angling bolt line. Four stars through the first five bolts but you way want to bring a walkie-talkie so you can here your belayer over the top of the powerful sucking sound you'll hear as stars are sucked out of the climb with each move above, wandering way right, way left with no discernable flow or natural line.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : Middle Earth
By: WAGbag When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: The "Getting there" section of most areas in AZ could use a little help. For middle earth, try this:
After mp15 you will pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right, the very next pullout (on your left) is for Middle Earth and The Helmet (just below 2 blocky towers). Start at the upper end of the pullout and walk up the gully. Just before you reach the crest cairns will either continue straight up (Helmet) or go right (middle earth). Follow right and sidehill (uphill to right) above a large slab a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannabis Crag : Freak Brothers (5.12c)
By: WAGbag When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: For those with T-rex arms like me you might have some difficulty gaining the first crimp off the shelf where a strenuous deadpoint feels like V6. Those with average to long arms will have a nice static V4 to start the climb.


Location: International : North America : Cayman Brac : Love Shack Wall
By: WAGbag When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: This wall is in the sun all day in January, though it's possible to squeeze one more route in when you get back to the Bluff house as the sun sets.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Dark Side : Dark Side Wall : Concracktion (5.11c)
By: WAGbag When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: My vote for best climb at Spearfish and top 5 ever...


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Mohican : The Gully Of Biblical Propo... : Forbidden Fruit (5.11b)
By: WAGbag When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: This would be a lot better if it actually climbed the arete like it would appear it should (given bolt line). It actually climbs right of the bolt line away from the arete all the way until the end, where you'll find two fun moves.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Big Picture Wall : First Blood (5.12c)
By: WAGbag When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: This was listed in the old guide as 12b to the original anchor below the black rock. My opinion is 12c with or without the extension. Also note that the 'extension' is now the only route - the old anchors were removed. This applies to all the routes here that received extensions. Some of them got much harder so do not rely on the old guide grades.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Glamrock : Winger (5.11b)
By: WAGbag When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: This route had me smiling all the way up. Falls in the top 2 I climbed while there.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Mohican : Indian Wars Wall : Last of the Mohicans (5.12a)
By: WAGbag When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: A bit of a big throw down low then a thin crux that was a right thumb-catch gaston for me.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : World Domination : Came as a Rat (5.12b/c)
By: WAGbag When: Jul 15, 2011

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Comments: This would be much better if the bolt line resembled the climbing line at all. "Tricky cruxes" should be interpreted as "not obvious because it wanders".


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