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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 4,007
Total Points: 110
Last Year: 66
Last 30 Days: 4
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 391 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 45 | Posts 176 | Stars 152 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: WadeM When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Every pitch on this climb delivers delicious SPLITTERS!!!!!!!!!!!
This is a climb I plan to repeat many more times. Everyone else's beta is pretty spot on.

Some of the bolts are starting to go bad, could use a replacement.

The headwall splitter is 25 ft of wavy .5s (if it were splitter this would be a 12 pitch), .75 through the roof with plenty of faceholds to keep it at mid 11, then 30 ft of ones. The one bolt anchor on this pitch is better to backup with a 2.

The last pitch feels as if yo... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome
By: WadeM When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Snowed about a foot in Tahoe the day before I climbed here. Hammer was 99% dry and could see Kirkwood loaded with snow

This thing bakes in the sun! Perfect for winter


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome
By: WadeM When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Climbed on Hammer yesterday. Cal Dome gets no sunlight this time of year


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Wings and Stings (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Agreed with comments. Funish pitch of dihedral layback/stem. Very straightforward after the 5.7 crack up.
If you want to see it up bring doubles to 3 or 4

I had pro to 2 and found it adaquate. Great views of cal dome across the creek
I probably wouldn't do it again due to the awkward cramming, plus the loads of great surrounding crack


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Twin Crags
By: WadeM When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Mostly uninspiring climbing, but gets the job done if you need something close to town. A girdle traverse might be fun along the whole base of the cliff.

I'd drive the extra 20 mins to donner


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Gypsy


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Breashear's Crack II (V3)
By: WadeM When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Felt 11+ to me. Been on plenty of 11s in Eldo, and it's right on par. Compared to something like Gill Crack (12a), this is much easier....

With good crack technique, it's fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : East Face / Goose (5.1)
By: WadeM When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Direct start is the way to go.

Fun route - pretty bomber rock.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: The whole route was wet! Get ready for some alpine gardening.

Bailed at the base of the crux pitch as we were greeted with lots of rain/sleet.

Long day c2c, beautiful.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Whiteside Girdle (5.10 R)
By: WadeM When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: That is damn impressive


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Flagstone (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: Agree with the first and second bolt being useless. You can slam a big cam once you reach that flake.

Great route


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: WadeM When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: Runout to block/flake 30ish feet.

Placing gear behind it isn't necessarily inspiring. The route is super good though, really fun climbing. Good inverted #2 halfway up route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: WadeM When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: Did the route this morning in one pitch with a 70m. Was great. Two fixed nuts on the route, so all in all pretty clean.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Still off limits?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : The Heap : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Great pitch...do it!!!!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: First pitch is a good warm up for Captain Nemo, and the second pitch is a good warm-up for Spectreman.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Right Torpedo Tube (5.11)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: You can also access two Metolius Rap hangers on the right side of the buttress. This facilitates TRing it with a 60m.

Doesn't make it any easier....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: WadeM When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Combine into one pitch with a 70m rope, you can lower off the anchors and TR. Single set fingers, doubles from 0.5-2, one 3 & 4 was perfect. If you really want to sew it up, throw on another 3 & 4.

As everyone else describes: good crack technique is pretty much a must. You can stem around some of the wide stuff but at a harder grade. I got a knee in and was able to get a bomber rest...learn to crack climb.

Awesome climb. A little over graded at 11a, I'd give it sustained 10.

Bird ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Vertigo (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: The piece placed out left is actually a 0.4.

Not sure where you could get in anything bigger, and this will make following the route more enjoyable for your second.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: No move felt harder than the dihedral pitch on Vertigo. Like other people have said: no stopper crux, but the pump factor builds up quick.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Did it in 2 pitches yesterday morning with a 60m.

Single rack to 4. If this is your first trad or trying to break into 5.7/5.8, the crack will SEW up with doubles from fingers to 4. No needs for nuts.

0.3 protects off the deck very nicely. If you're comfortable running it out, 2 pitches is the way to go.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Another great Lumpy climb!!!!

Either commit to a hard lieback and running it out to the vertical crack (scary as shit)

or

stay low through the traverse with very thin feet and strenuous crimp lockoffs. Bring small offsets and rps for the initial traverse. About halfway, there is room for a BOMBER, offset, red alloy.

The vertical section is quite thin off the next pitch. Purple or tight blue Metolius! A variety of technique will make this section not too bad. It has good gear, so just fi... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Pressure Drop (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route! This area really needs more traffic. It can be quite intimidating standing beneath this route, with the 12s and 13s around it.

Everywhere where the gear is crap, you get good holds, and where the gear is good, it becomes quite hard.

The first 30 ft require crack technique. You get bomber, offset alloys. Fire through the crux, as there's no room for gear anyways, to get to a good stance. Then start the shenanigans of the RP traverse. The rest climbs like delicate slab. S... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: WadeM When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this weekend.

Gray Mastercam to orange, #0.5-2, doubles in 3, 1 #4.

Bring an extra 2 if you're uncomfortable running out the PERFECT hands on the enduro pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: WadeM When: Apr 12, 2014

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Comments: Not blind at all. A lot of fixed gear is found through out route, none at the crux though. I was able to place a purple C3 and a gray/purple offset Mastercam at the crux, still I wouldn't want to fall on them.

I waited for this route until I had a handful of 11 leads in Eldo under my belt. Super fun climb, classic for sure.


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