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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 3,532
Total Points: 139
Last Year: 78
Last 30 Days: 7
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 417 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 187 | Stars 158 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Fixed nut in dihedral is gone. Bring a yellow alloy offset for crux piece. The rest is up to you! Enjoy


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: Still very poopy but fun. Redguard approach isn't the greatest. I was thinking it would be fun to link in from the Naked Edge.

Great exposed climbing once you get to it.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : Concrete Shoes Won't Help Y... (WI4- M4+)
By: WadeM When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Climbed 12/13/14.

All ice on route was super hard and plating but good enough to climb.

Mixed pitch had about 2-4 inches of ice going up the runnels.

Final pitch was really good.

Then 700 ft of bs gully to the top of the ridge.

Hiking out on the road in mtneering boots is demoralizing.

2 star route, with a crappy descent, don't think I'll be back without either stashing a bike or waiting until the road opens.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale Gorge : Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "... (WI4- M5 R)
By: WadeM When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: If no ice is present, it's a bold lead, but it has great locks!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: WadeM When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Every pitch on this climb delivers delicious SPLITTERS!!!!!!!!!!!
This is a climb I plan to repeat many more times. Everyone else's beta is pretty spot on.

Some of the bolts are starting to go bad, could use a replacement.

The headwall splitter is 25 ft of wavy .5s (if it were splitter this would be a 12 pitch), .75 through the roof with plenty of faceholds to keep it at mid 11, then 30 ft of ones. The one bolt anchor on this pitch is better to backup with a 2.

The last pitch feels as if yo... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome
By: WadeM When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Snowed about a foot in Tahoe the day before I climbed here. Hammer was 99% dry and could see Kirkwood loaded with snow

This thing bakes in the sun! Perfect for winter


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome
By: WadeM When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Climbed on Hammer yesterday. Cal Dome gets no sunlight this time of year


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Wings and Stings (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Agreed with comments. Funish pitch of dihedral layback/stem. Very straightforward after the 5.7 crack up.
If you want to see it up bring doubles to 3 or 4

I had pro to 2 and found it adaquate. Great views of cal dome across the creek
I probably wouldn't do it again due to the awkward cramming, plus the loads of great surrounding crack


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Twin Crags
By: WadeM When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Mostly uninspiring climbing, but gets the job done if you need something close to town. A girdle traverse might be fun along the whole base of the cliff.

I'd drive the extra 20 mins to donner


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Gypsy


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Breashear's Crack II (V3)
By: WadeM When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Felt 11+ to me. Been on plenty of 11s in Eldo, and it's right on par. Compared to something like Gill Crack (12a), this is much easier....

With good crack technique, it's fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : East Face / Goose (5.1)
By: WadeM When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Direct start is the way to go.

Fun route - pretty bomber rock.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: The whole route was wet! Get ready for some alpine gardening.

Bailed at the base of the crux pitch as we were greeted with lots of rain/sleet.

Long day c2c, beautiful.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Whiteside Girdle (5.10 R)
By: WadeM When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: That is damn impressive


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Flagstone (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: Agree with the first and second bolt being useless. You can slam a big cam once you reach that flake.

Great route


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: WadeM When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: Runout to block/flake 30ish feet.

Placing gear behind it isn't necessarily inspiring. The route is super good though, really fun climbing. Good inverted #2 halfway up route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: WadeM When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: Did the route this morning in one pitch with a 70m. Was great. Two fixed nuts on the route, so all in all pretty clean.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Still off limits?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : The Heap : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Great pitch...do it!!!!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: First pitch is a good warm up for Captain Nemo, and the second pitch is a good warm-up for Spectreman.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Right Torpedo Tube (5.11)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: You can also access two Metolius Rap hangers on the right side of the buttress. This facilitates TRing it with a 60m.

Doesn't make it any easier....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: WadeM When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Combine into one pitch with a 70m rope, you can lower off the anchors and TR. Single set fingers, doubles from 0.5-2, one 3 & 4 was perfect. If you really want to sew it up, throw on another 3 & 4.

As everyone else describes: good crack technique is pretty much a must. You can stem around some of the wide stuff but at a harder grade. I got a knee in and was able to get a bomber rest...learn to crack climb.

Awesome climb. A little over graded at 11a, I'd give it sustained 10.

Bird ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Vertigo (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: The piece placed out left is actually a 0.4.

Not sure where you could get in anything bigger, and this will make following the route more enjoyable for your second.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: No move felt harder than the dihedral pitch on Vertigo. Like other people have said: no stopper crux, but the pump factor builds up quick.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Did it in 2 pitches yesterday morning with a 60m.

Single rack to 4. If this is your first trad or trying to break into 5.7/5.8, the crack will SEW up with doubles from fingers to 4. No needs for nuts.

0.3 protects off the deck very nicely. If you're comfortable running it out, 2 pitches is the way to go.


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