Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ultimate Squeeze


Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact WadeM


Point Rank: # 4,072
Total Points: 106
Last Year: 76
Last 30 Days: 2
2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has WadeM been climbing?










Contributions


All 368 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 174 | Stars 136 | Ratings 5
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Twin Crags
By: WadeM When: Oct 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Mostly uninspiring climbing, but gets the job done if you need something close to town. A girdle traverse might be fun along the whole base of the cliff.

I'd drive the extra 20 mins to donner


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Gypsy


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Breashear's Crack II (V3)
By: WadeM When: Sep 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Felt 11+ to me. Been on plenty of 11s in Eldo, and it's right on par. Compared to something like Gill Crack (12a), this is much easier....

With good crack technique, it's fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : East Face / Goose (5.1)
By: WadeM When: Sep 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Direct start is the way to go.

Fun route - pretty bomber rock.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Aug 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The whole route was wet! Get ready for some alpine gardening.

Bailed at the base of the crux pitch as we were greeted with lots of rain/sleet.

Long day c2c, beautiful.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Whiteside Girdle (5.10 R)
By: WadeM When: Aug 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: That is damn impressive


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Flagstone (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Aug 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Agree with the first and second bolt being useless. You can slam a big cam once you reach that flake.

Great route


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: WadeM When: Jul 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Runout to block/flake 30ish feet.

Placing gear behind it isn't necessarily inspiring. The route is super good though, really fun climbing. Good inverted #2 halfway up route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: WadeM When: Jul 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did the route this morning in one pitch with a 70m. Was great. Two fixed nuts on the route, so all in all pretty clean.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Still off limits?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great pitch...do it!!!!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: First pitch is a good warm up for Captain Nemo, and the second pitch is a good warm-up for Spectreman.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Right Torpedo Tube (5.11)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: You can also access two Metolius Rap hangers on the right side of the buttress. This facilitates TRing it with a 60m.

Doesn't make it any easier....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: WadeM When: Jun 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Combine into one pitch with a 70m rope, you can lower off the anchors and TR. Single set fingers, doubles from 0.5-2, one 3 & 4 was perfect. If you really want to sew it up, throw on another 3 & 4.

As everyone else describes: good crack technique is pretty much a must. You can stem around some of the wide stuff but at a harder grade. I got a knee in and was able to get a bomber rest...learn to crack climb.

Awesome climb. A little over graded at 11a, I'd give it sustained 10.

Bird ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Vertigo (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The piece placed out left is actually a 0.4.

Not sure where you could get in anything bigger, and this will make following the route more enjoyable for your second.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No move felt harder than the dihedral pitch on Vertigo. Like other people have said: no stopper crux, but the pump factor builds up quick.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Jun 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did it in 2 pitches yesterday morning with a 60m.

Single rack to 4. If this is your first trad or trying to break into 5.7/5.8, the crack will SEW up with doubles from fingers to 4. No needs for nuts.

0.3 protects off the deck very nicely. If you're comfortable running it out, 2 pitches is the way to go.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Another great Lumpy climb!!!!

Either commit to a hard lieback and running it out to the vertical crack (scary as shit)

or

stay low through the traverse with very thin feet and strenuous crimp lockoffs. Bring small offsets and rps for the initial traverse. About halfway, there is room for a BOMBER, offset, red alloy.

The vertical section is quite thin off the next pitch. Purple or tight blue Metolius! A variety of technique will make this section not too bad. It has good gear, so just fi... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Pressure Drop (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome route! This area really needs more traffic. It can be quite intimidating standing beneath this route, with the 12s and 13s around it.

Everywhere where the gear is crap, you get good holds, and where the gear is good, it becomes quite hard.

The first 30 ft require crack technique. You get bomber, offset alloys. Fire through the crux, as there's no room for gear anyways, to get to a good stance. Then start the shenanigans of the RP traverse. The rest climbs like delicate slab. S... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: WadeM When: May 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this weekend.

Gray Mastercam to orange, #0.5-2, doubles in 3, 1 #4.

Bring an extra 2 if you're uncomfortable running out the PERFECT hands on the enduro pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: WadeM When: Apr 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Not blind at all. A lot of fixed gear is found through out route, none at the crux though. I was able to place a purple C3 and a gray/purple offset Mastercam at the crux, still I wouldn't want to fall on them.

I waited for this route until I had a handful of 11 leads in Eldo under my belt. Super fun climb, classic for sure.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Iron Horse (5.11)
By: WadeM When: Apr 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route. The crux is very well protected as I cut twice and fell onto my nut. Runout up top is not trival. If you can make it through the lower crux, you'll be fine on the runout. If in doubt, TR it first.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : ... : Photo
By: WadeM When: Apr 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: That bolt is no longer there. Gear through the traverse is pretty limited. You can equalize a purple c3 and and purple/grey Metolius. That is the best we got in.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Crack (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Mar 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Another classic. Small band of choss. A hold blew on my right before the traverse, but it's usually pretty good. Bring a bit of everything.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : West Overhang (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Mar 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: One of my top climbs. This offers a little bit of everything strung out over nothing but air!


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>