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Kloof at night!


Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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WadeM
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Total Points: 186
Last Year: 89
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 506 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 19 | Page Improvements | Comments 61 | Posts 202 | Stars 213 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : ... : Photo
By: WadeM When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Definitely off route.

Stay further left, and there's a move or two of 8+.

Might as well solo it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Arrowplane (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Great route!

First pitch is very runout, so we soloed up to the ledge.

Traverse easy, so an award move or two. Rest of climb was straightforward.

Gear:
doubles 0.1-0.4,
singles 0.5-3.

Probably could have done without the three, but it's nice to have in a couple spots.

Topout is great! I've gardened the mud out of the splitters, so this thing is clean for the season!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Great route in a great setting makes for a wonderful day out.

Not much to add, but do remember to save a #4 for high up on the wide pitch.

We combined p2 & p3, to finish in 5 pitches.

Rating: I don't see how this would be 11a. The thin part is maybe 10 feet long but with great feet. Maybe if you had to rand smear, it would be harder. Being at 13,000 does add difficulty, but I've climbed many harder 11a's in Eldo.

Wide pitch is 10a. Plenty of rests. Make sure to bring small gear too, as... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Aiguille de Fleur : Victory Garden (5.9) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Cracks to the right look good, too! Nice work.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Sunset Boulevard (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: 10+ to .9.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : East Face North Side/1st Fl... (5.2 R)
By: WadeM When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Seemed hard this morning...5.6.

I agree with Tony.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Gumbo (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: The crux is first two moves off the ground.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: WadeM When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: It's all C/A1 till you fall


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: Getting a solid kneebar entering the crux brought this climb to 11- for me. Two strenuous moves to no hands rest at the chockstones.

If heading left (easier exit), continue up 8/9 climbing to the top.

You can pull the next roof at about 9+ with a #3 and hit the upper anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: P1: Bring many slings and QDs, you can place a nut behind the first chockstone you get to, but probably won't do crap. I lead with 1 Bigbro and a handful of slings. Combine with P2 for a beautiful combo. The 5.7 chimney has a drilled angle and a star drive, but they are not needed.

P3: The wild step across. First three pins/bolts are ancient and need replacing. You can continue to stem high enough to clip the first actual bolt if you are tall enough.

P4: Either head up the 11+ tips crack ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: WadeM When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: Not a surprise for the locals, but bolts will not be found on this route. New climbers - avoid building a high belay on p1 in the hollow flakes.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: Must have been a good camera, dont mind the photographer


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: Fixed nut in dihedral is gone. Bring a yellow alloy offset for crux piece. The rest is up to you! Enjoy


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: Still very poopy but fun. Redguard approach isn't the greatest. I was thinking it would be fun to link in from the Naked Edge.

Great exposed climbing once you get to it.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : Concrete Shoes Won't Help Y... (WI4- M4+)
By: WadeM When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Climbed 12/13/14.

All ice on route was super hard and plating but good enough to climb.

Mixed pitch had about 2-4 inches of ice going up the runnels.

Final pitch was really good.

Then 700 ft of bs gully to the top of the ridge.

Hiking out on the road in mtneering boots is demoralizing.

2 star route, with a crappy descent, don't think I'll be back without either stashing a bike or waiting until the road opens.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale Gorge : Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "... (WI4- M5 R)
By: WadeM When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: If no ice is present, it's a bold lead, but it has great locks!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: WadeM When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Every pitch on this climb delivers delicious SPLITTERS!!!!!!!!!!!
This is a climb I plan to repeat many more times. Everyone else's beta is pretty spot on.

Some of the bolts are starting to go bad, could use a replacement.

The headwall splitter is 25 ft of wavy .5s (if it were splitter this would be a 12 pitch), .75 through the roof with plenty of faceholds to keep it at mid 11, then 30 ft of ones. The one bolt anchor on this pitch is better to backup with a 2.

The last pitch feels as if yo... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome
By: WadeM When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Snowed about a foot in Tahoe the day before I climbed here. Hammer was 99% dry and could see Kirkwood loaded with snow

This thing bakes in the sun! Perfect for winter


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome
By: WadeM When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Climbed on Hammer yesterday. Cal Dome gets no sunlight this time of year


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Wings and Stings (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Agreed with comments. Funish pitch of dihedral layback/stem. Very straightforward after the 5.7 crack up.
If you want to see it up bring doubles to 3 or 4

I had pro to 2 and found it adaquate. Great views of cal dome across the creek
I probably wouldn't do it again due to the awkward cramming, plus the loads of great surrounding crack


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Twin Crags
By: WadeM When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Mostly uninspiring climbing, but gets the job done if you need something close to town. A girdle traverse might be fun along the whole base of the cliff.

I'd drive the extra 20 mins to donner


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Gypsy


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Breashear's Crack II (V3)
By: WadeM When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Felt 11+ to me. Been on plenty of 11s in Eldo, and it's right on par. Compared to something like Gill Crack (12a), this is much easier....

With good crack technique, it's fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : East Face / Goose (5.1)
By: WadeM When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Direct start is the way to go.

Fun route - pretty bomber rock.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: The whole route was wet! Get ready for some alpine gardening.

Bailed at the base of the crux pitch as we were greeted with lots of rain/sleet.

Long day c2c, beautiful.


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