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Ultimate Squeeze


Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 54 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 4,061
Total Points: 100
Last Year: 69
Last 30 Days: 22
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has WadeM been climbing?










Contributions


All 334 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 35 | Posts 176 | Stars 107 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

North Crack

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (0)

Trad, 1 pitch, 95'

CO : Flatirons : ... : The Matron

Jul 14, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The gaping wide.

The gaping wide.

CO : Flatirons : ... : North Crack (5.10c)

Jul 14, 2014

Located behind this flake.

Located behind this flake.

CO : Flatirons : ... : North Crack (5.10c)

Jul 14, 2014

Lit up at night.

Lit up at night.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Sequential (5.12a)

Jan 22, 2014

Kloof at night part II.

Kloof at night part II.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Kloof (5.10+)

Jan 22, 2014

Kloof at night!

Kloof at night!

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Kloof (5.10+)

Jan 22, 2014

Right in the Middle!

Right in the Middle!

AL : Horse Pens 40 : ... : Centerpede (V4)

Nov 11, 2013

Ultimate Squeeze

Ultimate Squeeze

AL : Horse Pens 40 : ... : Millipede (V5)

Nov 11, 2013

Longs Peak - June 30, 2013

Longs Peak - June 30, 2013

Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Conditions at Spearhead and... : Post

Jul 1, 2013

Half Rope System

Half Rope System

Big Wall and Aid Climbing : Aid Climbing with Twin/Half...

Apr 12, 2013

Twin Rope System

Twin Rope System

Big Wall and Aid Climbing : Aid Climbing with Twin/Half...

Apr 12, 2013

cam from awh meadows

cam from awh meadows

Northern California : Middle Cathedral Question : Post

Mar 27, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: WadeM When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Runout to block/flake 30ish feet.

Placing gear behind it isn't necessarily inspiring. The route is super good though, really fun climbing. Good inverted #2 halfway up route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: WadeM When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Did the route this morning in one pitch with a 70m. Was great. Two fixed nuts on the route, so all in all pretty clean.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Still off limits?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great pitch...do it!!!!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: First pitch is a good warm up for Captain Nemo, and the second pitch is a good warm-up for Spectreman.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Right Torpedo Tube (5.11)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: You can also access two Metolius Rap hangers on the right side of the buttress. This facilitates TRing it with a 60m.

Doesn't make it any easier....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: WadeM When: Jun 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Combine into one pitch with a 70m rope, you can lower off the anchors and TR. Single set fingers, doubles from 0.5-2, one 3 & 4 was perfect. If you really want to sew it up, throw on another 3 & 4.

As everyone else describes: good crack technique is pretty much a must. You can stem around some of the wide stuff but at a harder grade. I got a knee in and was able to get a bomber rest...learn to crack climb.

Awesome climb. A little over graded at 11a, I'd give it sustained 10.

Bird ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Vertigo (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The piece placed out left is actually a 0.4.

Not sure where you could get in anything bigger, and this will make following the route more enjoyable for your second.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: No move felt harder than the dihedral pitch on Vertigo. Like other people have said: no stopper crux, but the pump factor builds up quick.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Jun 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did it in 2 pitches yesterday morning with a 60m.

Single rack to 4. If this is your first trad or trying to break into 5.7/5.8, the crack will SEW up with doubles from fingers to 4. No needs for nuts.

0.3 protects off the deck very nicely. If you're comfortable running it out, 2 pitches is the way to go.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Another great Lumpy climb!!!!

Either commit to a hard lieback and running it out to the vertical crack (scary as shit)

or

stay low through the traverse with very thin feet and strenuous crimp lockoffs. Bring small offsets and rps for the initial traverse. About halfway, there is room for a BOMBER, offset, red alloy.

The vertical section is quite thin off the next pitch. Purple or tight blue Metolius! A variety of technique will make this section not too bad. It has good gear, so just fi... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Pressure Drop (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome route! This area really needs more traffic. It can be quite intimidating standing beneath this route, with the 12s and 13s around it.

Everywhere where the gear is crap, you get good holds, and where the gear is good, it becomes quite hard.

The first 30 ft require crack technique. You get bomber, offset alloys. Fire through the crux, as there's no room for gear anyways, to get to a good stance. Then start the shenanigans of the RP traverse. The rest climbs like delicate slab. S... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: WadeM When: May 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this weekend.

Gray Mastercam to orange, #0.5-2, doubles in 3, 1 #4.

Bring an extra 2 if you're uncomfortable running out the PERFECT hands on the enduro pitch.


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