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Ultimate Squeeze


Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 4,060
Total Points: 102
Last Year: 72
Last 30 Days: 3
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has WadeM been climbing?










Contributions


All 331 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 37 | Posts 171 | Stars 107 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

North Crack

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (0)

Trad, 1 pitch, 95'

CO : Flatirons : ... : The Matron

Jul 14, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The gaping wide.

The gaping wide.

CO : Flatirons : ... : North Crack (5.10c)

Jul 14, 2014

Located behind this flake.

Located behind this flake.

CO : Flatirons : ... : North Crack (5.10c)

Jul 14, 2014

Lit up at night.

Lit up at night.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Sequential (5.12a)

Jan 22, 2014

Kloof at night part II.

Kloof at night part II.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Kloof (5.10+)

Jan 22, 2014

Kloof at night!

Kloof at night!

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Kloof (5.10+)

Jan 22, 2014

Right in the Middle!

Right in the Middle!

AL : Horse Pens 40 : ... : Centerpede (V4)

Nov 11, 2013

Ultimate Squeeze

Ultimate Squeeze

AL : Horse Pens 40 : ... : Millipede (V5)

Nov 11, 2013

Longs Peak - June 30, 2013

Longs Peak - June 30, 2013

Colorado : Conditions at Spearhead and... : Post

Jul 1, 2013

Half Rope System

Half Rope System

Big Wall and Aid Climbing : Aid Climbing with Twin/Half...

Apr 12, 2013

Twin Rope System

Twin Rope System

Big Wall and Aid Climbing : Aid Climbing with Twin/Half...

Apr 12, 2013

cam from awh meadows

cam from awh meadows

Northern California : Middle Cathedral Question : Post

Mar 27, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: WadeM When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The whole route was wet! Get ready for some alpine gardening.

Bailed at the base of the crux pitch as we were greeted with lots of rain/sleet.

Long day c2c, beautiful.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Whiteside Girdle (5.10 R)
By: WadeM When: 6 days ago

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Comments: That is damn impressive


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Flagstone (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Agree with the first and second bolt being useless. You can slam a big cam once you reach that flake.

Great route


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: WadeM When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: Runout to block/flake 30ish feet.

Placing gear behind it isn't necessarily inspiring. The route is super good though, really fun climbing. Good inverted #2 halfway up route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: WadeM When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: Did the route this morning in one pitch with a 70m. Was great. Two fixed nuts on the route, so all in all pretty clean.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Still off limits?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Great pitch...do it!!!!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: First pitch is a good warm up for Captain Nemo, and the second pitch is a good warm-up for Spectreman.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Right Torpedo Tube (5.11)
By: WadeM When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: You can also access two Metolius Rap hangers on the right side of the buttress. This facilitates TRing it with a 60m.

Doesn't make it any easier....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: WadeM When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Combine into one pitch with a 70m rope, you can lower off the anchors and TR. Single set fingers, doubles from 0.5-2, one 3 & 4 was perfect. If you really want to sew it up, throw on another 3 & 4.

As everyone else describes: good crack technique is pretty much a must. You can stem around some of the wide stuff but at a harder grade. I got a knee in and was able to get a bomber rest...learn to crack climb.

Awesome climb. A little over graded at 11a, I'd give it sustained 10.

Bird ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Vertigo (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: The piece placed out left is actually a 0.4.

Not sure where you could get in anything bigger, and this will make following the route more enjoyable for your second.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: No move felt harder than the dihedral pitch on Vertigo. Like other people have said: no stopper crux, but the pump factor builds up quick.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Did it in 2 pitches yesterday morning with a 60m.

Single rack to 4. If this is your first trad or trying to break into 5.7/5.8, the crack will SEW up with doubles from fingers to 4. No needs for nuts.

0.3 protects off the deck very nicely. If you're comfortable running it out, 2 pitches is the way to go.


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