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Ultimate Squeeze


Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact WadeM


Point Rank: # 3,554
Total Points: 132
Last Year: 88
Last 30 Days: 22
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has WadeM been climbing?










Contributions


All 401 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 47 | Posts 178 | Stars 154 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

North Crack

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (0)

Trad, 1 pitch, 95'

CO : Flatirons : ... : The Matron

Jul 14, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
P3 - Concrete Shoes.

P3 - Concrete Shoes.

Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post

5 days ago

Mixed pitch - Concrete Shoes.

Mixed pitch - Concrete Shoes.

Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post

5 days ago

First pitch - Concrete Shoes.

First pitch - Concrete Shoes.

Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post

5 days ago

Scramble up the gully to the ice - Concrete Shoes.

Scramble up the gully to the ice - Concrete Shoes.

Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post

5 days ago

The gaping wide.

The gaping wide.

CO : Flatirons : ... : North Crack (5.10c)

Jul 14, 2014

Located behind this flake.

Located behind this flake.

CO : Flatirons : ... : North Crack (5.10c)

Jul 14, 2014

Lit up at night.

Lit up at night.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Sequential (5.12a)

Jan 22, 2014

Kloof at night part II.

Kloof at night part II.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Kloof (5.10+)

Jan 22, 2014

Kloof at night!

Kloof at night!

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Kloof (5.10+)

Jan 22, 2014

Right in the Middle!

Right in the Middle!

AL : Horse Pens 40 : ... : Centerpede (V4)

Nov 11, 2013

Ultimate Squeeze

Ultimate Squeeze

AL : Horse Pens 40 : ... : Millipede (V5)

Nov 11, 2013

Longs Peak - June 30, 2013

Longs Peak - June 30, 2013

Colorado : Conditions at Spearhead and... : Post

Jul 1, 2013

Half Rope System

Half Rope System

Big Wall and Aid Climbing : Aid Climbing with Twin/Half...

Apr 12, 2013

Twin Rope System

Twin Rope System

Big Wall and Aid Climbing : Aid Climbing with Twin/Half...

Apr 12, 2013

cam from awh meadows

cam from awh meadows

Northern California : Middle Cathedral Question : Post

Mar 27, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : Concrete Shoes Won't Help Y... (WI4- M4+)
By: WadeM When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed 12/13/14.

All ice on route was super hard and plating but good enough to climb.

Mixed pitch had about 2-4 inches of ice going up the runnels.

Final pitch was really good.

Then 700 ft of bs gully to the top of the ridge.

Hiking out on the road in mtneering boots is demoralizing.

2 star route, with a crappy descent, don't think I'll be back without either stashing a bike or waiting until the road opens.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "... (WI4- M5 R)
By: WadeM When: Dec 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: If no ice is present, it's a bold lead, but it has great locks!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: WadeM When: Nov 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Every pitch on this climb delivers delicious SPLITTERS!!!!!!!!!!!
This is a climb I plan to repeat many more times. Everyone else's beta is pretty spot on.

Some of the bolts are starting to go bad, could use a replacement.

The headwall splitter is 25 ft of wavy .5s (if it were splitter this would be a 12 pitch), .75 through the roof with plenty of faceholds to keep it at mid 11, then 30 ft of ones. The one bolt anchor on this pitch is better to backup with a 2.

The last pitch feels as if yo... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome
By: WadeM When: Nov 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Snowed about a foot in Tahoe the day before I climbed here. Hammer was 99% dry and could see Kirkwood loaded with snow

This thing bakes in the sun! Perfect for winter


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome
By: WadeM When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Climbed on Hammer yesterday. Cal Dome gets no sunlight this time of year


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Wings and Stings (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Nov 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed with comments. Funish pitch of dihedral layback/stem. Very straightforward after the 5.7 crack up.
If you want to see it up bring doubles to 3 or 4

I had pro to 2 and found it adaquate. Great views of cal dome across the creek
I probably wouldn't do it again due to the awkward cramming, plus the loads of great surrounding crack


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Twin Crags
By: WadeM When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Mostly uninspiring climbing, but gets the job done if you need something close to town. A girdle traverse might be fun along the whole base of the cliff.

I'd drive the extra 20 mins to donner


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Gypsy


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Breashear's Crack II (V3)
By: WadeM When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Felt 11+ to me. Been on plenty of 11s in Eldo, and it's right on par. Compared to something like Gill Crack (12a), this is much easier....

With good crack technique, it's fun.


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