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Ultimate Squeeze


Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact WadeM


Point Rank: # 4,007
Total Points: 110
Last Year: 66
Last 30 Days: 4
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has WadeM been climbing?










Contributions


All 391 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 45 | Posts 176 | Stars 152 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

North Crack

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (0)

Trad, 1 pitch, 95'

CO : Flatirons : ... : The Matron

Jul 14, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The gaping wide.

The gaping wide.

CO : Flatirons : ... : North Crack (5.10c)

Jul 14, 2014

Located behind this flake.

Located behind this flake.

CO : Flatirons : ... : North Crack (5.10c)

Jul 14, 2014

Lit up at night.

Lit up at night.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Sequential (5.12a)

Jan 22, 2014

Kloof at night part II.

Kloof at night part II.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Kloof (5.10+)

Jan 22, 2014

Kloof at night!

Kloof at night!

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Kloof (5.10+)

Jan 22, 2014

Right in the Middle!

Right in the Middle!

AL : Horse Pens 40 : ... : Centerpede (V4)

Nov 11, 2013

Ultimate Squeeze

Ultimate Squeeze

AL : Horse Pens 40 : ... : Millipede (V5)

Nov 11, 2013

Longs Peak - June 30, 2013

Longs Peak - June 30, 2013

Colorado : Conditions at Spearhead and... : Post

Jul 1, 2013

Half Rope System

Half Rope System

Big Wall and Aid Climbing : Aid Climbing with Twin/Half...

Apr 12, 2013

Twin Rope System

Twin Rope System

Big Wall and Aid Climbing : Aid Climbing with Twin/Half...

Apr 12, 2013

cam from awh meadows

cam from awh meadows

Northern California : Middle Cathedral Question : Post

Mar 27, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: WadeM When: Nov 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Every pitch on this climb delivers delicious SPLITTERS!!!!!!!!!!!
This is a climb I plan to repeat many more times. Everyone else's beta is pretty spot on.

Some of the bolts are starting to go bad, could use a replacement.

The headwall splitter is 25 ft of wavy .5s (if it were splitter this would be a 12 pitch), .75 through the roof with plenty of faceholds to keep it at mid 11, then 30 ft of ones. The one bolt anchor on this pitch is better to backup with a 2.

The last pitch feels as if yo... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome
By: WadeM When: Nov 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Snowed about a foot in Tahoe the day before I climbed here. Hammer was 99% dry and could see Kirkwood loaded with snow

This thing bakes in the sun! Perfect for winter


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome
By: WadeM When: Nov 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed on Hammer yesterday. Cal Dome gets no sunlight this time of year


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Wings and Stings (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Nov 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed with comments. Funish pitch of dihedral layback/stem. Very straightforward after the 5.7 crack up.
If you want to see it up bring doubles to 3 or 4

I had pro to 2 and found it adaquate. Great views of cal dome across the creek
I probably wouldn't do it again due to the awkward cramming, plus the loads of great surrounding crack


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Twin Crags
By: WadeM When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Mostly uninspiring climbing, but gets the job done if you need something close to town. A girdle traverse might be fun along the whole base of the cliff.

I'd drive the extra 20 mins to donner


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Gypsy


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Breashear's Crack II (V3)
By: WadeM When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Felt 11+ to me. Been on plenty of 11s in Eldo, and it's right on par. Compared to something like Gill Crack (12a), this is much easier....

With good crack technique, it's fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : East Face / Goose (5.1)
By: WadeM When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Direct start is the way to go.

Fun route - pretty bomber rock.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: The whole route was wet! Get ready for some alpine gardening.

Bailed at the base of the crux pitch as we were greeted with lots of rain/sleet.

Long day c2c, beautiful.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Whiteside Girdle (5.10 R)
By: WadeM When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: That is damn impressive


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Flagstone (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: Agree with the first and second bolt being useless. You can slam a big cam once you reach that flake.

Great route


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: WadeM When: Jul 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Runout to block/flake 30ish feet.

Placing gear behind it isn't necessarily inspiring. The route is super good though, really fun climbing. Good inverted #2 halfway up route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: WadeM When: Jul 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did the route this morning in one pitch with a 70m. Was great. Two fixed nuts on the route, so all in all pretty clean.


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