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Member Since: Nov 26, 2006
Last Visit: Feb 19, 2012
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Point Rank: # 392
Total Points: 1,492
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 447 | Routes 127 | Areas 3 | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 67 | Posts | Stars 221 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+)
By: Wa3lt When: Feb 16, 2012

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Comments: My point, Geir, was not that the Forks sucks and should be trashed. It's that the complaints about toproping and chalk are just dog whistles for the "We were here first with our bongs and EBs" (full disclosure, I owned EBs and have placed bongs...) crowd.

There are lots of crags with no crowds, topropes, or chalk. But you gotta hump it for half an hour or longer. The Forks has been popular for years, in large part due to the easy access, and no amount of complaining will stop people from topro... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+)
By: Wa3lt When: Feb 16, 2012

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Comments: You guys are hilarious. I bet you drove, in a 2000+ pound automobile, on a 40 foot wide, miles-long stretch of asphalt that was built by mechanically digging/blasting/flattening, to the crag that you're so concerned about people toproping and using chalk at. In fact, I'm almost positive this is the case, as I myself have gotten to the Forks that way many times.

Am I saying you should live in a yurt and eat berries, and walk to the crag with your hand-woven leather rope? No, of course not. I ow... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Jet Stream (5.13a X)
By: Wa3lt When: Mar 6, 2010

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Comments: Nice! That's probably the real FA, then! Neither Rick or I was willing to trust the pro we could find - rattly RPs behind a big loose flake that was fitted into the dihedral - I'm amazed you got any pro in at all. It's possible that the big flake fell out, which might have revealed something worth placing gear in, of course.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Los Alamos Canyon : Hospital Crag
By: Wa3lt When: Feb 14, 2010

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Comments: Luke and I bolted these in the mid-90s sometime. The rock is crud, the location sucks (especially nowadays) and someone should probably go yank the hangers and use them for something more worthy (no, seriously, they're my hangers, go take them).

-Walt


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Bananas on Acid (5.12a)
By: Wa3lt When: Jan 28, 2010

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Comments: This was the first 5.12 I ever climbed, and I onsighted it somehow. I recall it seeming pretty easy, with the exception of some flash-pump and some sequence misreading that resulting in me *high stepping on my own fingers* to get the send. Yeah, very stupid.

I would say (based on 15 year old recollection) that it's soft for 12a. But my memory of this climb is pretty limited to the ghosts of horrible finger pain. So who knows.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Cytogrinder (V8) : Photo
By: Wa3lt When: Jan 17, 2010

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Comments: Those shoes look familiar....


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Gate's Pass : Left-Right Traverse - Small... (V1)
By: Wa3lt When: Dec 23, 2009

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Comments: IMO, the best problem at Gates, and totally safe, even without a pad. Crux (for me) was an awkward match in a sinker but weird/uncomfortable pocket. Yes, it's an eliminate - but it's a pretty logical one, and the movement is awesome.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Walt's Wall (aka The Outsid... : Electric Pet Gri-Gri (5.11d)
By: Wa3lt When: Oct 24, 2009

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Comments: Jason Chen and I had the FA of this. We spent a long time trying to clean the middle/upper section, but it's just not very good rock. I would probably avoid this one, as the quality of the moves doesn't make up for the scary rock.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Sununu Place : Bush Whacker (5.9)
By: Wa3lt When: Oct 24, 2009

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Comments: Luke Laeser and I replaced the hangers on these routes many years ago with super-ghetto angle iron ones we had sitting around. I believe Luke made them in shop class.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : No Exit (5.12a)
By: Wa3lt When: Sep 23, 2009

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Comments: I've always thought this was quite hard for the grade. The finish (IMO) is a solid V5 boulder problem, though you get a great rest before doing it.

I've seen people pre-clip the anchors with 4+' long "draws" to avoid the last cruxy bits.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Polly's Crack (5.8+)
By: Wa3lt When: Sep 23, 2009

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Comments: Best 5.8 in White Rock, IMO.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Thief in Time (5.12d)
By: Wa3lt When: Sep 23, 2009

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Comments: I could never for the life of me figure out where this route went. It's pretty hard, depending on where you go, but only for a move or two, and there's no well-defined line. Basically, a mediocre boulder problem separated by choss below and easy climbing above.

This is another early 90s route bolted by folks who *really* wanted to climb 5.13 but couldn't find anything hard enough in WR. They ended up bolting anything with hard moves they could find, quality be damned. I don't think I've every s... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Witch Tower : Circe (5.10+ PG13)
By: Wa3lt When: Apr 23, 2009

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Comments: Dude, Cam Burns and co. were the KINGS of the simul-rap. He's famous for throwing ropes over hoodoos in Moab, jugging off a partner, then rapping for the "FA". Funny stuff.

I could be wrong about those guys climbing it. Luke mentioned it to me at some point when we were hiking around up there, but it was 10+ years ago and my memory is pretty foggy.

-Walt


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Apache Canyon Bouldering
By: Wa3lt When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: I stopped by Apache Canyon when on the way through/past Santa Fe last year, and was distinctly unimpressed. Maybe it was the fact that the stream was pretty high, but there's really not much here to do unless you're into eliminates. I'd drive southwest to the Pond instead, I think.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: Wa3lt When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: I have to disagree with the assessment that this is a topnotch crag. Cochiti is abandoned for a couple of reasons, but one of them is definitely the mediocre rock - many of the pockets had turned into slopers already more than a decade ago. The bolts are sketchy as heck (though if they've been replaced by glue-ins, that's mostly taken care of).

It's definitely worth a visit, but it doesn't hold a candle to many other sport crags (Jemez valley stuff, White Rock, El Rito, Taos, etc, etc) in the ... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Touch Monkey (5.13a)
By: Wa3lt When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: I did this route in the late 90s and thought it was BY FAR the hardest 13a I'd ever done - and it's exactly my style, not too overhanging and sequential. I don't think the holds have changed that much - the route is just the product of a bygone era, as well as being authored by a true tiny pocket/vertical badass. If it was at Shelf, it'd be 13b or c, probably. A great tick no matter what.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Playground Traverse (V6-7)
By: Wa3lt When: Apr 10, 2009

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Comments: A route grade might be more appropriate for this thing, given that it's 300 feet long or so. I'd suggest 5.12+/13- or so.

-Walt


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Witch Tower : Circe (5.10+ PG13)
By: Wa3lt When: Mar 29, 2009

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Comments: I'm pretty sure that Jon Butler/Luke Laeser/Carlo Torres/Cam Burns or some combination thereof got on top of this thing (via the back side at easyish class 5) at some point in the early 90s. Luke and I went and looked at it a few times later and decided the rock was too poor to bolt anything. Good to see that we were wrong!

-Walt


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Open Project (5.14)
By: Wa3lt When: Mar 24, 2009

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Comments: A bouldering grade might be more appropriate here, as the difficulties on this "route" are only 20' worth. The landing isn't pretty, though, so you'd definitely want a rope no matter what.

It's at least V10 as a boulder problem, or at least that's how I recall feeling while trying it.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Playground Traverse (V6-7)
By: Wa3lt When: Mar 24, 2009

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Comments: One quick comment - the only person I know who has done this is Jon Butler, back in the mid-90s. He knew the traverse like the back of his hand. He might well have gotten the first ascent, I don't know for sure, but it's definitely not the kind of problem most bouldering folks are willing to spend the time to work out.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Crack House (aka Estant... : Honest Abe (5.10+)
By: Wa3lt When: Mar 23, 2009

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Comments: I named this route after my (now sadly departed) dog Abe, who accompanied Luke and I all over White Rock on our climbing adventures. I recall it being hardish 5.10. But it's been 10+ years, so my opinion isn't worth much there.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Los Alamos Canyon : Los Alamos Canyon
By: Wa3lt When: Mar 23, 2009

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Comments: There are also tons of sport routes in this area, though most are of lower quality and are missing their hangers. FAs mostly by Shibli Fazal in the mid-90s. If you do a little looking, you can find them, but I don't have the info anymore (at least that I can find) so you'll have to explore.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Mitchell Trail Area : The Back Rocks
By: Wa3lt When: Mar 23, 2009

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Comments: You would need to be *very* bored. The rock on all of these routes is utter crap. Small holds break, big holds crumble, your feet will skate around on the dozen of small cubes of rock that come off of every foothold.

Seriously, skip it. I climbed here a couple of times with Luke in the mid 90s and it's not even vaguely worth the approach.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Monsterpiece Theatre (5.12a)
By: Wa3lt When: Mar 23, 2009

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Comments: Best route at BTONP, IMO. Crux is very sequential (which is unusual for White Rock).


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Crack House (aka Estant... : Ring of Fire (5.12a) : Photo
By: Wa3lt When: Mar 23, 2009

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Comments: Rigthhand crack out the roof is route 4 (no name) 5.12. Shares the start of Ring of Fire.


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