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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Hook Variation (5.7)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stretch yr legs before this pitch. Lots of highstepping foot to hand matches on chickenheads. Flow up the rock with very cool moves. Should be called the Tai Chi pitch. I'll give it an extra star cause it's so high on the wall.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom West (5.7)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not quite as fun as I thought it would be. I prefer the Schoolroom Direct (even with the chimney). To me the crux was the first 15 feet of the second (or third if u dont link) pitch. Felt harder than 5.7. Kind of awkward but i blindly placed a medium cam up high in the flake, high stepped onto a bump on the right slab and made the move. Ankle breaker if u fall and dont have pro. Definately link this pitch with the fun roof pitch. There isn't any reason not to. Last pitch is good. It loves cams. ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Subterrainian (5.11a)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once again, a long way to the first bolt but it can be protected well. Quite fun with sustained cool moves. I swear the rock almost seems like limestome in some weird way.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Lip Service (5.9-)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: You will wanna bring gear for this route. The first bolt is a long ways up. A small nut works for the initial moves but you may want to place another piece, as well, cause you have a definite ground fall if u don't make that first bolt.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Tax Evasion (5.7)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did I really need to place three pieces in the last 20 feet? No. But it takes gear so well u just can't help yourself. Do this, and then do Climb and Punishment.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Climb and Punishment (5.9-)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very fun climb. Looking to crack into the 5.9 trad game? This may be the one for you. The first fifteen feet is maybe a 5.9 finger that protects well with something small and then the crack gets wide and real easy to the top. I just wish it was fifty feet longer.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: vincent pierce When: Aug 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A BC classic! Don't cheat yourself on pitch 3... get on that arete!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Norma's Book (5.7)
By: vincent pierce When: Aug 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: No way is this route a 5.5! New leaders beware if you have a book that calls it a 5.5. I'd say it's a hard six. There are two fairly steep sections, one near the middle and one at the top. Still, u have a lot of positve holds and plenty of places for pro. A grreat climb if you have lead a couple pitches before.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Wrecking Ball (5.11a)
By: vincent pierce When: Aug 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Feels like an .11b to me! That is a hard move even after you figure out the sequence.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dark Star Gully : Fine Arete (5.11a)
By: vincent pierce When: Jul 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I meant to put 11a! See my 2nd comment. Of course if u think it is 11b I will take that instead. Haha.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Skyline (5.8)
By: vincent pierce When: Jul 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the great climbs at the city! You may have to wait in line for this one but it's worth it. View from the top is as spectacular as the climb. The bottom half is killer and the runout upper half is easy but so much fun.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dark Star Gully : Fine Arete (5.11a)
By: vincent pierce When: Jul 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: That rating is supposed to be 11.a!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dark Star Gully : Fine Arete (5.11a)
By: vincent pierce When: Jul 21, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is really FUN! Reminds me a bit of Black Monday. Though it is not as steep it has those good holds that keep coming at ya. Pumped when u get to the crux near the last bolt. Try to stay off the blocky stuff to the right down low or u are just cheating yourself. I have heard it is called "fine arete".
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Seldom Scene Gully : Big Easy, The (5.9)
By: vincent pierce When: Jul 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had one of those "slow motion moments" when my partner got a little off route and sent a bowling ball sized rock str8 at my head! I ducked and, other than that it was fun.
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