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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: vincent L. When: Jun 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Photo
By: vincent L. When: May 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You are right . I tried to tag all the echo peaks one day . The easiest route up that was a very nice two pitch route up a south facing wall . Abundant chicken heads . There is a rap station on top , or you could Tyrolean off to another echo peak which was only about 30 feet away , across a deep and narrow gap . A lonely summit in an area that sees a lot of climbing .
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Tenaya Peak : Tenaya, Matthes, Cathedral ... (5.7)
By: vincent L. When: May 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot of good info here . Another really fun day is to hike into Elizabeth Lake , the trailhead is in the back of the TM campground, and climb Unicorn (4th class) and then wander over to Cockscomb ( easy 5th ) and then onto the Northern end of Mathes Crest . From there you would climb North to South ,which some would consider 'backwards' , but who cares .
After that you could tag an Echo Peak or two , or Cathedral of course . But talk about unlimited possibilities , only your personal fitness ... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Mojo Tooth Area
By: vincent L. When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I once saw a snake and a scorpion on the same day at Mojo Tooth base area.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Planet X Area : Planet X Pinnacle : Planet X (5.8)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once I lead this climb with the rope fed through my harness , but not tied at all . I was about to be lowered , and pull a Lynn Hill , but for whatever reason I stopped and checked my knot , and noticed there was none . Almost killed by complacency .
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Five and Dime Cliff : Inner Reaches (5.7)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really interesting two pitch route . Pitch one is a wide, slightly awkward crack to a tunnel move with little pro . Pretty easy chimneying though . Second pitch is a 12 inch squeeze crack that is virtually unprotectable , but once inside you cannot really fall out , mentally more challenging that physical , although it is that too . Well worth your time , old school rock climbing .
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Loggerhead Buttress : Loggerhead Ledge Route (5.7)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: An old school feel with some awkward wide sections and chimneying . A beautiful ledge up higher with excellent views . Well worth doing , and not too hard .
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Loggerhead Buttress : Sorry Poopsie (5.8)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A quality route , a moderate finger crack to some slightly committing face and mantel moves before the anchor bolts. The anchor slings are worn and could use some removal and beefing up . The route is about 7 minute walk from Manure Pile parking lot .
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Loggerhead Buttress : Simian Sex (5.10d)
By: vincent L. When: Oct 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Our 70m reached with a few feet to spare .
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Center (5.6) : Photo
By: vincent L. When: Oct 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: soo hot
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Bloody Spire : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: vincent L. When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb can be done in one pitch very easily. Put an extra long sling on the bolt before the traverse left.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : The Fang-Left Side (5.9)
By: vincent L. When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is working up the short crack at the start. Solid finger locks lead to a couple insecure pods. Jam those real good , try to get a toe in the thin crack , and reach high for a solid hand jam . The short chimney is fun and you make an airy exit onto easy face climbing up to the anchor.
You can TR various bolted routes from the anchor.
It is a fun climb.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Seven (5.8)
By: vincent L. When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a 70m rope you can rap off the tree at the top of the first pitch of after 7 . It is a rope stretcher. If you swing right into after six, you can reach a good ledge about six feet off the ground , then a short and easy downclimb...
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Mount Doom
By: vincent L. When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A worthy little crag. The approach is about 25 minutes from the parking lot. The easiest way to set up a TR is to climb the 5.7 slab route. Very pretty views from the top, one can see the ocean.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - East Face : ... : Photo
By: vincent L. When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: you totally cruxed it
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Castle Rock Proper : Chimney (5.6)
By: vincent L. When: Dec 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun , short , stout , 5.6 chimney. Near the top , if you chose to stay right of the 5.9 face , there are fun runout moves that will see you to the top. I'm not sure if it is considered part of the chimney route but it is harder than 5.6 . The last moves are an exciting mantle with the key holds on top being part of a hole that might or might not have water in it.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Upper Tier, 5.10 Face (5.10)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are now anchor bolts atop this route. I don't think you need 8' to 10' feet of webbing to avoid your TR damaging the rock. I used a couple of extended trad draws.
I believe that in order for this route to be 10a as it is in the SF bay area guide book, you need to start climbing out onto the face right next to the tree in Chouinard's crack. When you are climbing up the crack , there are some deceptive jugs out right before you actually get to the good rest by the tree. If you can send the ... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Upper Tier, Chouinard's Cra... (5.9+)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also think this route is 5.9 . It was somewhat sandy but still quite fun and worth doing. I belayed my friend up from the top. There are huge scars in the soft rock from repeated toproping. I anchored off a tree about 30 feet back from the end of the climb. Just as I was starting to belay, I noticed a set of anchors right next to me. They are easy to miss, they are on the right side of the top of the route and they actually face away from the route.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier, Amazing Face (5.10a)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow some climbers around here are hard to please. Don't let the indifferent attitude of the person who created the page for this route deter you. "Amazing Face" is a beautiful route and a classic by Bay Area standards IMO. It reminds of one of the pitches on 'Birdland' in Red Rocks. A route well worth doing again and again.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Summit Rock : Worm Belly (5.10b R)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somewhat sketchy climbing off of small holds past the first bolt. Reach up high and right over the lip to find much more positive holds. A pretty good route, fun start.
I'm pretty sure there are only three lead bolts.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Summit Rock
By: vincent L. When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of this weekend there are a lot of bees around the Santa Clara Practice Route (5.8). It looks like they would be an issue if you were doing Bolt Filcher too.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Castle Rock Area : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - Southeast Fac... : Knightline (5.10)
By: vincent L. When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb pictured is Knightline and I feel it is 10a , the Singer guide also calls it 10a.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Black Streak (5.10b R)
By: vincent L. When: Apr 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is pretty clean these days. It is runout and a few of the bolts are old and don't inspire much confidence.
It is a pretty good route though with good moves on mostly solid rock.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Indecent Exposure (5.7)
By: vincent L. When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are three bolts on this route. it is run out and the second bolt is older than my grandma's rocking chair. you can get a blue alien in between the first and second bolts behind a block but it inspires little confidence.
the climb is mungy, and it is harder than 5.7, closer to 5.9
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Knee Surgery (5.9+)
By: vincent L. When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are three bolts. the climbing after the third bolt is run out, the route is only 60 feet high so you don't need to climb far above the last bolt to be in a position to fall over half the route.
the route is good but it is mungy. doesn't seem like it gets climbed much. it is a good route to climb.
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