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Mt Ogden, Summer 2012


Member Since: Dec 6, 2012
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact vanman798


Point Rank: # 9,538
Total Points: 25
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 29 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 5 | Posts 17 | Stars 1 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Tachycardia route.

Tachycardia route.

UT : Maple Canyon : ... : Tachycardia (5.7)

5 days ago

Dirtcicle April 30, 2013

Dirtcicle April 30, 2013

Northern Utah & Idaho : Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13 : Post

May 1, 2013

Dirtcicle, Dec 2012

Dirtcicle, Dec 2012

vanman798 : Profile Pics

Dec 17, 2012

Mt Ogden, Summer 2012

Mt Ogden, Summer 2012

vanman798 : Profile Pics

Dec 6, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Layer Cake : Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (e... (5.10b)
By: vanman798 When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: I've been up this a couple of times. The toughest part about it is that you can't fully trust the holds. I had several break off on me.

I think the ratings are exaggerated.

I'd go with this:

p4 = 5.7
p5 = 5.8
p6 = 5.8
p7 = 5.0
p8 = 5.7
p9 = 5.9+ (was a tough 5.9, but didn't quite feel like a 5.10)

P8 & 9 where both very very chossy, and the holds were not trustworthy even more so than the other pitches. Over all it is a fun "adventure" type climb.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Heart Rock Area : Heart Rock : ... : Photo
By: vanman798 When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: Tachycardia is a very fun, and very exposed climb. Definitely an "adventure" climb.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Heart Rock Area : Heart Rock : ... : Photo
By: vanman798 When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: To descend Heart Rock we rappelled from the fourth dot in this picture (counted from the bottom up), down to the second dot. Second rappel was from the second dot into the draw between Heart Rock and Changing the Stripes Buttress. We had a 70 m rope and used all but a few meters on the second rappel. The summit register is not at the fourth dot, but rather to the SW across the gap.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Heart Rock Area : Heart Rock : ... : Photo
By: vanman798 When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: I'd also like to add on Tachycardia, that there is no reason to not string pitch 1 and 2 together. The rope drag on p3 is pretty stiff as the bolt line goes over the crux (the first move from the top of p2) then moves from the south face to the west face and eventually moves straight up to a double bolt (dot 3 counting from the bottom up) which is a good place to belay up the following climber(s). If you have a rope team of 3 the second should leave in directional draws (slings) as without the... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Heart Rock Area : Heart Rock : ... : Photo
By: vanman798 When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: The black line for Tachycardia is off a bit. The second pitch does end at the second dot (counting up from the bottom to the top), and the way the line rounds around the overhang above the belay is accurate, but from there the bolt line continues to go on to the west side of Heart Rock (the wall forming the west (right) side of the draw between Changing the Stripes Buttress and Heart Rock). If you are watching climbers from the road they will disappear once they climb around the overhang above... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Need Partner SLC September 29-October 4thUtah Partnersvanman798Sep 17, 2013
re: Climbing partners in Moab Utah Partnersvanman798Aug 21, 2013
re: Indian Creek- October 2013Utah Partnersvanman798Aug 21, 2013
re: Partner for some big wall climbing Northern Utah & Idahovanman798Aug 12, 2013
Lone Peak Cirque - Lowe Route & Open Book - anytime in AugustUtah Partnersvanman798Jul 31, 2013
Climbing Partner(s) needed Provo area.Utah Partnersvanman798Jun 3, 2013
re: Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13Northern Utah & Idahovanman798May 1, 2013
re: Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13Northern Utah & Idahovanman798May 1, 2013
re: Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13Northern Utah & Idahovanman798Feb 28, 2013
re: Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13Northern Utah & Idahovanman798Feb 7, 2013
Looking for a readable map, with route names, for the Ouray Ice Park.Coloradovanman798Jan 29, 2013
re: Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13Northern Utah & Idahovanman798Jan 21, 2013
re: Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13Northern Utah & Idahovanman798Jan 7, 2013
Waterton Alberta - Ice Partner NeededIce Climbingvanman798Dec 28, 2012
Ice Partner Needed: Waterton, AlbertaPacific Northwestvanman798Dec 27, 2012
re: Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13Northern Utah & Idahovanman798Dec 17, 2012
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