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Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 223
Total Points: 2,480
Last Year: 90
Last 30 Days: 15
66 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Cunning Linguist been climbing?










Contributions


All 3694 | Routes 93 | Areas 18 | Photos 154 | Page Improvements | Comments 510 | Posts 2784 | Stars 122 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Nevada : Ultraman Wall : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: 3 days ago

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Comments: You got it close enough for government work. Mothra isn't fully bolted and giving people that idea is going to cause sadness as it's spaced out enough already without skipping the gear placements. Godzilla is the one replaced with glue ins (donate to the ASCA). Ultramagnetic MCs isn't so difficult to find if you read the description on MP but if you're leery of leading it, climb Godzilla first and take a look to your left. It accepts a lot of gear and doesn't have any bolts until the top section... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Chuckwalla 21 (5.9 PG13)
By: Cunning Linguist When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Just to reiterate, this climb loses much of its "seriousness" if you carry a #1-3 Ballnut set. Mike M was a Ballnut skeptic before this climb, after solid placements that really cut down on the runouts on the first 2 pitches, he was sold on them.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Sandblast (5.10- R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Both pro bolts replaced 4/15 with stainless ASCA half inchers. The original bolts had sustained falls and were in bad shape.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Last anchor on the original free route has been replaced with ASCA half inch stainless and Fixe double ring hangers. The rock is bomber, the bolts are safe. Donate to the ASCA, we'll fix more.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Healy's Haunted House (5.7 X) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: How about a #0 circlehead? It looks very constrictive there about 20 or 30 feet further in past the Bro. Why didn't the bolter use go-go-gadget arms like the rest of us?

For the humor-deprived, this is what is known as a "joke."


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Test Tube (5.9)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Wow! What a climb. First and foremost this is a great example of how wrong detractors of Urioste routes are about the consistency of percieved "over bolting" on routes J+J put up. This route is "1980 5.9 hard" aka solid 10-, was put up before cams were on their rack, and is BURLY and completely absent of fixed pro, despite the fact that it would make the first pitch a must-do classic if the upper two pitches of grovel weren't the penalty clause for climbing the beautiful first pitch. Regarding g... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^^^Hilarious. You need a line of bolts protecting every single move on a climb to sucker you away from the pullouts, but using a natural feature as done by the first ascentionists is cheating? Proud, proud moment in the history of climbing. The purity of the tree is disdained by the manpri wearer. We are all elevated by this ethical triumph.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sonic Youth Cliff : Unknown Pile (5.11a)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Mar 6, 2015

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Comments: My understanding is that this was a Flyin' Brian route. If anyone knows what Brian named it or FA details, it'd be a nice thing to post all that here.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: I think the part of your comment that rings true is that you've climbed practically nothing compared to him. I'm guessing you haven't climbed with too many people who are climbing in their 70s-tape, knee pads, trekking poles, comfortable harnesses-many older climbers have figured out ways to protect themselves and make life more comfortable, which aren't in vogue with the 19 gram carabiner-Arc'teryx harness set. I have hope to one day have half the climbing resume that Jorge has. So, yeah, he's ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Vaya con Queso : Burrito Face-Plant (5.10d)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: Odd choice not to put chain on the anchor of this one. Looks like a **lot** of hollow rock on this rig. When the upper bit cleans up from traffic, this might be worth a visit. The setting was fantastic-a really pretty spot. One of the best sunset watching spots in Red Rock, based on my stroll out there today.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Sandbox : Generations (5.13a)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: Hey Jon that's rad your filled in the drilled pocket. Thanks for your contributions to MP lately in the area and for having the vision to get these old projects done. Respect.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Vaya con Queso : Burrito Face-Plant (5.10d) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: Cool pic. Captures a moment.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Mavericks (5.11+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: Loving the feedback. Wrapper jug above the crimps sounds right, pretty sure I drilled off or that rail feature after the crux move. not sure how that makes her rating 11- and yours 11+, since that hold is after the long move and it felt LONG to a couple 5'10" guys, but regardless glad to see that some NC folks got to enjoy my ground up route! Thanks for posting up, Bruce.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: Really cool, man. Thanks for all the positive contributions.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Mavericks (5.11+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: Interesting that you thought of it as a slab, MN. One of the things I liked about Mavericks was the variety of angles it offered. Glad you liked the climb, I thought the quality on this one is definitely there and it was a blast to put up. The crux throw spit off a bunch of medium height people a few times, I thought that one move felt like V3/4 and with the pump factor 11C was the lowest it was going to get graded by just about anyone. How tall are you, out of curiosity? Thanks for posting up p... more >>


Location: NV : The Wild Granites
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: I like the detail in the section on how to locate the route. Almost like no information at all. In other news, the sky is up. Also there is an amazing new ten pitch route, all pitches are five star splitters. You can find it somewhere between Kathmandu and Antarctica with a left turn at Albuquerque. It's on a rock. Good luck!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Delicate Sound of Thund... (5.11a) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: I think those guys were belaying from an adjacent route's anchor, which probably feels safer than the gear anchor stance but is out of line with the rest of the climbing. Probably not a major deal one way or the other.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Mic's Master (5.10a/b)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: They make these things called lockers. If you're shitting egg rolls because your biner opened, perhaps you should use a biner that won't open?

Or you can pray to the Local Climbing Group Gods to start permadrawing everything for your convenience. Cause that is certain to happen.

Sport climber- noun A person woefully under equipped to climb outdoors who wouldn't know how to deal with anything out of the ordinary when, predictably and reliably, that happens.


Location: VA : Manchester Wall
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^^Routes are listed, on this site, already linked from this page, to pillar 6. So, yeah, everyone has that information available. Look up on the left side of the page you are on.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: Rappelled over this route today and can confirm, there are INCHES of poop on every horizontal surface up there right now. Even the bolts are covered in shit. Really gross. Good luck with this one.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : The Triad : Vegabondage (5.11a) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Ah, crap rock. You can't avoid it in the desert. Looked protectable if the gear held, maybe I'll do this one when it warms up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : The Triad : Vegabondage (5.11a) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 30, 2015

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Comments: That line looked crunchy when I scoped it, MK! How was the rock?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Ripcurl (5.11a)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: I guess CHUD is criticizing something he hasn't done, when it comes to this climb, I'd point out the irony, but since he has problems figuring things out, I'll refrain. The Internet rules!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Ripcurl (5.11a)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: Tell me about it. Want to hear about that badass trip to the Ruth Gorge where even having mcCray as a ropegun couldn't get Humbel and his hetero lifemate up a climb? Or the climbs in Sandstone that required spraying chemicals all over the rock to try to "firm up" a sandbox. Or the one that they sprayed glue all over the ground while reinforcing/adding holds, treating our public lands like a bridge overpass instead of a national treasure, Or should I relax and not get so personal? Dunno, it's the... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Mystery Route...Will update (5.12b)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: Depending on whether this is the route with lots of epoxy/glue dripped all over the ground underneath, I know a bit about when and who this abortion was created by. Drilled pockets, permadraws, glued on flakes...some of Red Rock's finest climbing, no doubt.


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